99 neon dohc issues
#1
08-02-2011, 11:32 AM
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Hot Springs, SD
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
99 neon dohc issues
Part1: Ok first off, I love my car it was my first car and I intend to keep it. My car has well under 100,000 miles, more like 75k. Anyways a while bake my cruise stopped working, a while longer my horn stopped working. Anyone know what the deal is there?
Part 2: I just replaced my plugs, wires, and coil. and still my service engine light is on, so I hook code scanner back up to find out that cylinder 4 is still missfiring.
Part3: (lol) also my car idles very high and I can NOT figure out why
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks
Part 2: I just replaced my plugs, wires, and coil. and still my service engine light is on, so I hook code scanner back up to find out that cylinder 4 is still missfiring.
Part3: (lol) also my car idles very high and I can NOT figure out why
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks
#2
08-02-2011, 12:57 PM
I have a 99 DOHC and it has been throwing the "misfire" code around alot. 1, 2, 3, random misfire. I changed the wires and plugs (Champions only) No joy! From what I see there are only a couple items that work on this system. Coil (changed), plugs and wires, (changed), Cam sensor(changed), crank sensor (changed) and the big one ECU, Not changed. I'm looking for the Neon god that has solved this. If it's the ECU so be it. Is there anything else?
#3
08-05-2011, 11:29 AM
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Hot Springs, SD
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
alright so i charged the a/c back up, works (for now). while I was under there i took the fuel injector rail out and sprayed a **** ton of carb and choke cleaner in there, there was rust, must have been bad gas? and once i put it back together it was still idling high, so i sea fomed the vaccuum line, and put the rest in my gas tank. then i was messing around spraying my vaccuum line to see if maybe it had a leak that was tthrowing the code and causing the high idle? well i found out that the gasket between the intake manifold and the engine was torn, so i got the gasket ordered, and temporarily put a high temp gasket maker on there, hopefully the code stops. i also have rotars comming cuz after i changed the pads it still makes a squeek, squeek squeek as i drive, and i have a front motor mount commiong cuz that one is screwed. hopefully it quits taking my money? lol
#7
08-06-2011, 02:46 PM
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Hot Springs, SD
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
#10
08-06-2011, 10:48 PM
Here you go...
Originally Posted by snapdragon
get a clock spring from a junkyard (by following the procedure below) or buy one from the dealer ($300 cdn), or beg on the parts board. Either way, before you buy a spring make sure that you can prove the spring is centered and was never turned to one end (otherwise it ripped and it's garbage). The dealer one will come with a sticker on it so it doesn't move.
Clocksprings will normally lock once they are removed from the steering column to prevent this, but if someone didn't have it centered when it came off, then you're going to rip it the first time you turn it.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable
2. Go get a coffee/drink to give the capacitor time to discharge, at least 2-3 minutes.
3. Remove the steering wheel cover shrouds, top and bottom.
4. Unscrew, disconnect and remove the signal and washer stalks
5. Remove the two pods on the sides of the wheel
6. If they are blank pods, skip to 8
7. If you have cruise pods, gently disconnect the single connector from each pod.
8. Tuck wires into the steering wheel gently (most clocksprings have cruise wiring even if you don't have cruise)
9. Remove the two bolts, one per side, holding in the airbag. They are just inside the pod holes on the back of the bag. I think they are 13 mm but i might be wrong.
10. Gently remove the airbag slowly. You will have to watch for the horn wire, and disconnect it.
11. Still moving slowly, you need to disconnect the squib from the bag. It is easiest to have two people here, one can take a small flat screwdriver and work out the top then the bottom, while the other one holds the bag.
12. Place airbag face up on a non-static surface, such as concrete flooring or a cotton blanket. Don't put it on the back seat on on a rug, and keep it face up in the rare event it goes off. Always carry it facing away from you.
13. Ensure the steering wheel is dead center. Lock the ignition.
14. Remove the steering wheel lock nut. (21mm?)
15. You may or may not have a steering wheel damper weight here (with a part # on it). It is your choice if you want to do weight redux here. I took mine off, it adds slight vibration to the wheel, but i like it because it lets me feel more contact with the road. You don't have to put it back in.
16. Attach a steering wheel puller (if you don't know how to use one, get assistance before you destroy your splines or threads)
17. Pull steering wheel
18. Gently disconnect the connector from the bottom of the clockspring - it will be yellow because it has airbag wiring in it. Disconnect the smaller connector right next to it. These connectors have the safety red locks on them and need to be properly disengaged. Don't break them!
19. The clockspring has a tab on the top and a tab on the bottom. Carefully lift up on these while you pull the clockspring case straight out.
20. Place the spring to one side
21. Examine the new-to-install spring. If it's used, make sure the two signal cancellation stubs are intact and not ready to break off. If one or both are gone, your signal cancel won't work.
22. Remove the centering sticker or tape if present
23. Place the casing directly over the column and lock into position
24. Reconnect the bottom two connectors
pretty much the install is the reverse, you'll use the steering wheel nut to push the wheel back on the splines (it only goes on one way).
One thing about the airbag: When you put it back in and get it all bolted down (bolt it down first... If it goes off and it's not.... Oh boy) ... Get into the car from the *passenger* side. Turn the ignition on. Verify the air bag light goes out. Then you are ok. In the rare rare rare event you messed something up and that bag goes off, you don't want to be in front of it, gawking down at the cluster.
Time and tools: About 10-15 minutes in the driveway with basic large ratchet and sockets, phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, steering wheel puller.
Mike p wrote:
You are missing the centering procedure if you are reinstalling a used one...
1.) depress the 2 locking pins to disengage the clock spring if it's locked.
2.) rotate the clockspring clockwise to the end of travel, being careful not to apply too much pressure
3.) rotate the clockspring back 2 1/2 turns back in the counterclockwise direction. If it still works, engage the lock mechanism.
4.) reinstall the steering wheel being sure that you don't force it on the shaft. It should slide on easilly...and not interfear with the clock spring in any way. Make note...the steering wheel is keyed...and you may slightly move the clock spring so that it doesn't interfear with the steering wheel placement.
Clocksprings will normally lock once they are removed from the steering column to prevent this, but if someone didn't have it centered when it came off, then you're going to rip it the first time you turn it.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable
2. Go get a coffee/drink to give the capacitor time to discharge, at least 2-3 minutes.
3. Remove the steering wheel cover shrouds, top and bottom.
4. Unscrew, disconnect and remove the signal and washer stalks
5. Remove the two pods on the sides of the wheel
6. If they are blank pods, skip to 8
7. If you have cruise pods, gently disconnect the single connector from each pod.
8. Tuck wires into the steering wheel gently (most clocksprings have cruise wiring even if you don't have cruise)
9. Remove the two bolts, one per side, holding in the airbag. They are just inside the pod holes on the back of the bag. I think they are 13 mm but i might be wrong.
10. Gently remove the airbag slowly. You will have to watch for the horn wire, and disconnect it.
11. Still moving slowly, you need to disconnect the squib from the bag. It is easiest to have two people here, one can take a small flat screwdriver and work out the top then the bottom, while the other one holds the bag.
12. Place airbag face up on a non-static surface, such as concrete flooring or a cotton blanket. Don't put it on the back seat on on a rug, and keep it face up in the rare event it goes off. Always carry it facing away from you.
13. Ensure the steering wheel is dead center. Lock the ignition.
14. Remove the steering wheel lock nut. (21mm?)
15. You may or may not have a steering wheel damper weight here (with a part # on it). It is your choice if you want to do weight redux here. I took mine off, it adds slight vibration to the wheel, but i like it because it lets me feel more contact with the road. You don't have to put it back in.
16. Attach a steering wheel puller (if you don't know how to use one, get assistance before you destroy your splines or threads)
17. Pull steering wheel
18. Gently disconnect the connector from the bottom of the clockspring - it will be yellow because it has airbag wiring in it. Disconnect the smaller connector right next to it. These connectors have the safety red locks on them and need to be properly disengaged. Don't break them!
19. The clockspring has a tab on the top and a tab on the bottom. Carefully lift up on these while you pull the clockspring case straight out.
20. Place the spring to one side
21. Examine the new-to-install spring. If it's used, make sure the two signal cancellation stubs are intact and not ready to break off. If one or both are gone, your signal cancel won't work.
22. Remove the centering sticker or tape if present
23. Place the casing directly over the column and lock into position
24. Reconnect the bottom two connectors
pretty much the install is the reverse, you'll use the steering wheel nut to push the wheel back on the splines (it only goes on one way).
One thing about the airbag: When you put it back in and get it all bolted down (bolt it down first... If it goes off and it's not.... Oh boy) ... Get into the car from the *passenger* side. Turn the ignition on. Verify the air bag light goes out. Then you are ok. In the rare rare rare event you messed something up and that bag goes off, you don't want to be in front of it, gawking down at the cluster.
Time and tools: About 10-15 minutes in the driveway with basic large ratchet and sockets, phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, steering wheel puller.
Mike p wrote:
You are missing the centering procedure if you are reinstalling a used one...
1.) depress the 2 locking pins to disengage the clock spring if it's locked.
2.) rotate the clockspring clockwise to the end of travel, being careful not to apply too much pressure
3.) rotate the clockspring back 2 1/2 turns back in the counterclockwise direction. If it still works, engage the lock mechanism.
4.) reinstall the steering wheel being sure that you don't force it on the shaft. It should slide on easilly...and not interfear with the clock spring in any way. Make note...the steering wheel is keyed...and you may slightly move the clock spring so that it doesn't interfear with the steering wheel placement.