Won't start, 98 Dodge Neon
#1
Won't start, 98 Dodge Neon
So here is my sad tale...
I have a 98 Neon DOHC that no longer wants to start. Battery has tested fine (took it to Crappy Tire), hasn't been running rough or anything lately.
At first I was hoping that it was just the ignition switch (When rolling the key on to START, the radio wouldn't go out like it normally would. That's what caused me to suspect it), but after replacing it when turning the key to START I can hear an electronic high pitched whine coming from under the hood.
I'm not getting any clicking from the starter, and (if anyone would be so kind to fill me in on its meaning) on my dashboard I'm getting (P)(!).
Any help would be great.
Also I'm not suspecting the starter its self because I had a brushing kit put into it 4 months ago and the guy who did it for me said it was in really good shape otherwise.
Thanks in advance!
I have a 98 Neon DOHC that no longer wants to start. Battery has tested fine (took it to Crappy Tire), hasn't been running rough or anything lately.
At first I was hoping that it was just the ignition switch (When rolling the key on to START, the radio wouldn't go out like it normally would. That's what caused me to suspect it), but after replacing it when turning the key to START I can hear an electronic high pitched whine coming from under the hood.
I'm not getting any clicking from the starter, and (if anyone would be so kind to fill me in on its meaning) on my dashboard I'm getting (P)(!).
Any help would be great.
Also I'm not suspecting the starter its self because I had a brushing kit put into it 4 months ago and the guy who did it for me said it was in really good shape otherwise.
Thanks in advance!
#2
The first step I would take is to have a buddy come over and help you.
Grab a test light and first test for constant 12v power at the starter.
After that I would hook the clip end of a test light to the signal wire on starter and you are going to want to touch the other end to ground on your battery. Seems a bit backwards but it will keep your hands away from possibly moving parts
If there is no signal there when key is turned in park then we can move on. If there is signal your starter is still bad regardless of what you were told.
The next place inline to check would be at the neutral safety switch as it goes from ignition to nuetral safety and then from there to starter. This is located on the top of your transmission where the shift rod will connect.
If you do not have power there on start then I would suspect something in the ignition switch.
Hope this helps.
I can fire up my mitchell program later to give you exact color codes if needed.
If it is at ignition switch I would advise not touching anything wrapped in yellow tape, bright yellow wires or bright yellow cable sleeving. That would be for airbag and would be very very bad...
Grab a test light and first test for constant 12v power at the starter.
After that I would hook the clip end of a test light to the signal wire on starter and you are going to want to touch the other end to ground on your battery. Seems a bit backwards but it will keep your hands away from possibly moving parts
If there is no signal there when key is turned in park then we can move on. If there is signal your starter is still bad regardless of what you were told.
The next place inline to check would be at the neutral safety switch as it goes from ignition to nuetral safety and then from there to starter. This is located on the top of your transmission where the shift rod will connect.
If you do not have power there on start then I would suspect something in the ignition switch.
Hope this helps.
I can fire up my mitchell program later to give you exact color codes if needed.
If it is at ignition switch I would advise not touching anything wrapped in yellow tape, bright yellow wires or bright yellow cable sleeving. That would be for airbag and would be very very bad...
Last edited by chew*; 09-19-2011 at 06:39 PM.
#3
#4
Chew could you check something for me on your mitchell program? I found this: http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-17.pdf detailing how to test the ignition switch itself. for my car I believe it to be the large gauge black wire and large gauge red wire
Last edited by linkmaster6; 09-20-2011 at 10:30 PM.
#5
Chew could you check something for me on your mitchell program? I found this: http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-17.pdf detailing how to test the ignition switch itself. for my car I believe it to be the large gauge black wire and large gauge red wire
#6
Had some time tonight and removed the starter. Does anyone know of a test that can be done on a solenoid while it is out of the car?
*** Found an answer to my own question, found here:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm
*** Found an answer to my own question, found here:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm
Last edited by linkmaster6; 09-22-2011 at 07:56 PM.
#7
Had some time tonight and removed the starter. Does anyone know of a test that can be done on a solenoid while it is out of the car?
*** Found an answer to my own question, found here:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm
*** Found an answer to my own question, found here:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm
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#8
#9
Generator would be your alternator.
So basically here is your possible culprits.
First eliminate a bad battery connection to starter.
Verify power going to solonoid at starter.
If no power next in line looks to be relay at fuse box or main power fuse.
If power there next in line looks to be neutral safety.
If power there then check at ignition switch.
It would also not hurt to verify you have a good ground to engine somewhere.
#10