Hello Neon-Experts ..

Our 1998 Dodge Neon Highline- SOHC, Automatic, recently started having Stalling / hesitating / stuttering / missing a few beats occasionally.

This ONLY happens when I am starting *AFTER* a stop. For instance:-
(1) I stop at a stoplight and then when the light turns green I step on the pedal. For a fraction of a second, NOTHING happens for a second. NO resistance on the gas pedal... for that fleeting second. Most of the times, when the "miss happens", I release the gas pedal and then try again and lightly press (feather press?) the gas pedal.. and it kicks in slowly and the car drives smoothly.

(2) I use the brakes for a sharp turn. It gives the impression that the engine is gonna die.. But then again, when I straighten my wheels and press the gas pedal slowly, things go back to normal.
I *FEEL* this happens when I brake hard or slightly hard (as opposed to slowly and smoothly, in which case, the stall does NOT seem to happen).

That said, this stalling / hesitating does NOT happen all time.
I have had these changed: Spark plugs, Spark wires, Air Filter.
I have used Fuel Injector cleaners (Gumshot and then LucasOil). I am not sure if helps or not as the stall still happens. Hopefully it has cleaned the Fuel Injectors

I also read that 1998 Dodge Neons don't need to have their Fuel Filters changed and is a part of Fuel Tank (supposed to be for life). So am eliminating fuel filter. Or is that a mistake?
Moreover, I have had my fuel pump changed last year. (I seem to remember the above two are related. Feel free to correct me.

My initial impressions (in other work GUESSWORK) are :
(1) When the car is stopped and when I press the gas: The engine may not be getting the fuel (fuel Injector?, Fuel Filter)
OR
(2) Perhaps it is not getting air ?? (o2 sensor? Air filter)
OR
(3). I seem to remember the above mixture has to be compressed. But somehow there doesn't seem to build the a pressure.. coz there is no feedback or resistance, when I press the gas pedal
OR
(4) Someone suggested about exhaust playing a role. But I did not understand how Exhaust comes into play at this point. Perhaps I am too dumb.
OR
(5) Perhaps there is some kind of lose connection.. or broken wires.. and this "path" (connection/wires) are ONLY needed when starting from a stop?
OR
(6) The automatic Gear MIGHT not be moving to 1st Gear as it should. (I GUESS) Perhaps the gear moves to Neutral when a car is stopped, and then it should move to 1st gear when you press your gas pedal.. and something might be causing that to not happen right away??? Can lubrication or something be done to gear???.

The possibilities seem endles for a guy like me who does NOT have enough knowledge about car engines. Someone who knows car engines, may be able to eliminate a few of the above points at first sight... and perhaps add some more valid possibilites that takes precedence.

Am hoping the Experts can throw some light and help me exclude as many of the possibilites. This will allow me to pursue the remaining option(s).
Additionally, I was hoping, someone over here has had this problem before and RESOLVED it.

Please... Help!

-aJester

 

im not telling you what your problem is but it might have something to do with the torque converter or the torque converter clutch. im not positive though.

 

I just called a couple of Dodge dealers.
Told them the problem... and asked them how much they would charge me if I were to replace the following (Getting a quote if you will):

__________________________________________________ ________
(1) O2 sensor............... $160
(2) Coil pack ............... $250 - $300
(3) TPS .................... $200 - $400. Palmer Dodge and $200 (Champion CJD)
================================================== ==
Total Cost of above...... $700
___________________________________
(4) IAC <----------- mechanic said, IAC should NOT have to be changed for this problem.


Is it just me. Or is that expensive?

Unfortunately, I would be able to do the repair at the moment.

I might just try changing the battery and hope it works [ I noticed some corrosion on the battery yesterday. Also I don't think it has been changed in the last few years.]

At Champion CJD when they said, they would do a diagnostic and tell me what needs to be changed, I pointed out that they had done a diagnostic 3 weeks back and had me change Spark plugs + wires + Gasket + Seal cap.... and my car remains sick... and charged me about $350 - 400 for the privilage.

Bl00dy thieves.
/Rant over. Feel better

aJester

 

Have you tried changing your distributor?

 

Distributor: Now. That is new. :0)
To answer your question Nope. Haven't changed it in the last year and half.
Hmmm. *Clears my throat*. I don't know what exactly it is. Could you please describe it? Am trying to understand what it is and its function.. and such and understand how it fits in the picture.

Appreciate your response!

ajester

 

There is no distributer on the neon. The neon uses a coil pack fired by the PCM.

 

It would be called a distributor on an older car. On the Neon it's called a coil pack and shouldn't cost you more than $80US. It's sitting near the back of your engine on the passenger side right on the very top of the motor. There will be 4 wires coming out of it which connect directly to your spark plugs.

The O2 sensor shouldn't cost you more than $70US

Those prices are pretty high, VERY high if you ask me. It sounds like they're triple charging for labour, which is highly unusual. The coil pack is probably the easiest part to get to. Which is why I say you could get away with doing it yourself. Take it pretty slow and if you have to stop and ask one of us or someone who knows a bit more about cars, don't hesitate. It's better than to ask for help than to do something stupid resulting in a more expensive fix.

 

Have you checked your PCM for codes? If not, then here is a link on how to do it as well as the list of codes: http://www.troublecodes.net/neon/ Do this before you do anything else.

The PCM (computer) and crank/cam sensors on todays cars take the place of the distributor on older cars, not the coil pack. A coil pack on todays cars are basically the same as the ignition coil on the old cars, they perform the same function.

 

Casper, Whyte69 and 71RoadRunner.
You guys rock. Thanks a bunch for your replies.
***************
I like posts that explain the point they make. This makes me understand your line of thought and I am able to make sense.
Also it will help me understand and learn about my machine more.
I know it is a big thing to ask, but IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, could you guys please explain your post like 71RoadRunner. and Whyte69 did above? :0)
***************
71RoadRunner.
That link you posted is a ***GEM***
I shall definitely do this.
I had ALREADY tried this before (when the problems initially started). But did NOT get any blinking lights. But I probably did it wrong or something. I shall try again.

Whyte69.
The Coil Pack costs about $86 in Autozone.

Am thinking of getting my O2 sensor changed. I believe the one I am looking for is BEFORE sensor and NOT the AFTER sensor. If someone can explain the difference, I would appreciate it.
When I called up Autozone, they said a BEFORE sensor would cost about $70. And a UNIVERSAL would cost about $50. Can I use a UNIVERSAL instead of a BEFORE sensor? Or should I stay away from it and get myself a BEFORE sensor?

Does anyone have "step-by-step instructions" on how to change an O2 sensor? Or should I take it to a tachnician?

Once again Thanks a bunch for all the advice and suggestions.
You guys rock!


-aJester

 

Upstream or before is before the converter, downstream or after is after the converter.
The o2 sensors are fairly simple to replace if you buy a good 02 socket give it a try I'm sure you will see how simple it is and save yourself some bucks.
good luck!