I relocated my battery to my truck so i can fit a cold air intake where the battery used to be at. But now my in take doesn't fit. I'm looking for a new one so if any one knows where i can find a iceman or have any suggustions.... let me know. thanks!

 

100 dollars will buy you a nice shiny Kirk racing CAI it will only work if you relocated your battery so your all set

http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx...ne-trans.shtml

3rd one down

 

Why won't your intake fit now?

 

Actually I got it to fit. I had to cut about 50% off of the entire cold air intake [CAI]. I bought a 90 degreeelbow and a 2.5" to 3" silicon hoseand less then 2 feet of fuel line as a vacuum hosefrom pep boys. I'll post a photo of it later today. It looks pretty good I think lol... check back around 2pm today.



Yesterday I removed my old air intake and removed the heat shield for the exhaust manifold. I then noticed that my exhaust manifold was cracked straight down the middle. I'm not sure if the crack goes all around the exhaust manifold but I know that it's cracked from the top. I'll also show a picture around 2pm. I only removed the exhaust manifold's heat shield because I thought that that's the reason why I hear a rattling clanking noise coming from the catylic converter area under the hood. In fact I shook the pipe that's going to the catylic converter to the exhaust manifold and it was loose. What I want to know is, is it ok to tighten the 2 bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the catylic converter?

Another thing is that I want to convert my rear drums to discs. I found a 98 dodge neon mtx 2dr DOHC with rear discs brakes. So I was wondering is it easy as 123 with some work to swap drums to discs? Does any neon come with abs? If you can help me with this I would very much appreciate it.

I'm also replacing my lower right control arm. How would I get about this?



NOW IS A SHOP RECCOMENDED FOR ANY OF THESE MINOR PROGJECTS?

THANKS!!!

 

You want to make sure they are torqued correctly, not tightened.

It's pretty simple, especially if you keep the assembly intact, then you just swap it over and bolt it up. Should take a first timer about 2-3 hours if you take your time and be careful. Some did come with ABS, but I would prefer not to have it.

Here you go...
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Remove wheel and tire assembly from side of vehicle requiring service to lower control arm.
(2) Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint ball stud, clamping nut and bolt.
(3) Remove the 2 attaching links connecting the stabilizer bar to the lower control arms.
(4) Loosen but do not remove bolts attaching stabilizer bar retainers to front suspension crossmember. Then rotate stabilizer bar and attaching links away from lower control arms.
CAUTION: Pulling steering knuckle out from vehicle after releasing from ball joint can separate inner
C/V joint.
(5) Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud. Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.
(6) Remove front lower control arm bushing to crossmember attaching nut and bolt. Remove rear lower control arm to crossmember and frame rail attaching bolt. Then remove lower control arm from crossmember.

 

thanks man! ok here are the photos that I said i was going to post....

as you can see... my exhaust manifold is cracked down the middle. And that my ghetto hybrid cold air intake haha... I bought the silicon 3" to 2.5" hoses and the silver "plastic" 90 degree elbow from pep boys along with the fuel line as a vaccum hose. The blue thing you see was my old cold air intake after some major cutting. Thelower pictures was how it used to be but to me it looks like a short ram but it's not, it's a cold air intake. the last pictures is my neon...










*mod edit* Links fixed for ya

 

Nasty crack on that manifold. Time to upgrade and get a header.

 

Will JB Weld hold for now until I get a header?

 

Possibly. http://www.rockauto.com/ has the a ATP stock exhaust[/b] manifold for $60 plus shipping. Not a bad price.[/b]

 

naw... i want to stayaway from stock as much as possible,performance wise. What header do you suggust? I plan on turboing my neon. So i don't want to buy parts twice if you know what i mean.