i don't see a ballast in any of those picture but from all the wires heading towards the battery i would have to guess that there is a computer.
here a dodge ballast resister

 

The picture shows an ELB 2 spark control computer. It should have 4 wires to it and be used with the single ballast resistor. I can see the resistor just to the right of the bulkhead connector and it appears to be a single ballast resistor. A single ballast resistor should read 1.1 to 1.8 ohms. Coil resistance should be 1.34 to 1.55 primary and there were 4 different coils used and they all have different resistance values. Essex and UTC are 9.0 to 12.2 k ohms, Prestolite is 9.4 to 11.7 k ohms, and Diamond coils are 15.0 to 19.0 k ohms .

Above the coil looks like your voltage regulator. The relay you show with the 5 connecter pins is the start-run relay that transfers power to to the operating pick-up coil in the distributer. The other relay looks like the starter relay.

 

Thanks - awesome info - checked resistance on ballast this morning 2.4 ohms - I'll pick one up and try it tonight

 

It's not the ballast resistor - put a new one in today. Coil primary is 2.4 ohms 2ndary is 8.8 k ohms - there is no name on the coil - it is 2 yrs old

 

it could be the fact that the ballast is getting wet. my dads truck use to not like to run when it was raining. his solution was to find a better location for the ballast. he relocated the ballast to inside the truck.

 

pzvt; Was it raining where you are yesterday and is it raining today?

 

Been dry for two weeks - It isn't the coil - tried that today. What's next - how do you troubleshoot the ignition module?

 

So the original facts were incorrect and this doesn't just happen when wet. This whole thread was based on that so far. Lets start over with the symptoms like what, where, and when it does and doesn't exhibit the problem. The more info we have the better we can help so this is the not the time for brevity.

Did you check the air gap or gaps inside the distributor? I believe you should have dual pick-ups. Air gaps can be checked with a (NON-METALLIC) feeler gauge. The air gap will effect your timing. The start pick-up gap is 0.006 and run gap is 0.008. Always adjust start gap first. To ID them the start pick-up coil has the larger of the 2 electrical connectors. If you only have one pick-up the air gap is 0.006. Remember (NON METALLIC as in brass). If this gap is off just 0.002 the vehicle may not start or even run at times or at all.

 

Found the problem - bad ignition module. It started and ran ruff (Like one cylinder wasn't getting spark - lots of clicking/tapping)yesterday - I shut her down and she wouldn't restart. Tapped the module with a socket extension and she started then failed. Took the module out and heated it up with a heat gun to about 100 degrees. Put it back in and she started up and ran better. Got a new module - runs great - starts every time.

Thanks all for your help.