lol i must have scared it off. it was making me extremely irritated. and im going to have to find this spray cleaner lube you speak of. a lot of the wires ive seen under the hood are cracked up and look dry rotted and some even has that greenish corrosion that sometimes appears in the battery post wires..i am a fairly large guy. beefy, 6'3" about 250lbs..hands havent been small since i was a kid so replacing that would be a task lol but replacing sockets all around seems appropriate seeing as the truck has sat...and sat...and sat.

 

i would not worry about the light sockets unless your they are too rotten or a light bulbs gets rusted to the socket. i have had both on my truck and i think my truck was even missing a socket or so. all the light sockets on my truck are the exact same including the back-up lights. i think if i ever have to buy light sockets i might upgrade to the new plastic sockets. the look like they would fit.

 

well, that also makes good sense crazzywolfie. if i do decide to do it, it will be at plain leisure replacement or if they are in super need.

 

if you do replace them make sure you have a good multi meter and that you hook everything up correct. i think i had rear tail light problems on my 81 when i hooked up one of the front turn signal lights sockets incorrectly.

 

1987 D150 360/automatic

Lights work
horn works
blinkers work

radio no power
wipers no power
fan no power
power window no power

power locks work

Replaced EVERY fuse on the fuse board.
Even the big over sized ones.

Where do I start?

Help please.

at1yancey@yahoo.com

 

My truck is a 1990 350 diesel. This overcharging problem has been going on through 2 different electronic regulators. With new regulator system seems to charge correctly for a few miles then pegs out. Battery voltage is detected in the regulator connector wire. Have not been able to separate the bulkhead connection to check for shorts. My question is, on the inner fender well drivers side there is some type breaker. It has the identification as Pollak 12v z32 30a. Does this have anything to do with the charging system? it kooks pretty shot. Going to replace it anyway but do not know if this is part of the overcharging problem. Thanks for your time.

 

I redid my 86 ram spring of 2012. The Idea was to end up with as factory looking harness as possible.
If you by a painless harness you'll be doing a whole lot of splicing.
Just plan ahead any changes you want to make such as adding relays for headlights.
Alot of this stuff can be bought locally at NAPA but much more expensive, even with shipping added in on online orders.
Is your bulkhead connector in good shape? If so, the bulkhead terminals I used were available at NAPA , take one to match up and order them online, their much cheaper.


Headlight terminals are Packard 59. They can be bought
here http://www.pcsconnectors.com/ their website has been down for a while now.
Here http://www.corsa-technic.com/index.php
Here https://www.terminalsandconnectors.com/




Other terminals and connectors can be found
here http://www.repairconnector.com/
here http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/O_E...ells_s/259.htm
light socket brass terminals http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html




I bought this crimper for factory type terminals I bought this one for weatherpack terminals that i used

Wire can be bought
here http://motorsportswiring.com/ they were great to deal with.
These guys got a lot of options as far weather you want them marked the wire or not http://www.enoscustom.com/images/eno...om_catalog.pdf
Do not buy Painless Performance bulk wire its 2 to3 times the price of what you will pay from motorsportswiring.com and you can get the same type TXL wire they use.


If your harness has been hacked up it will be nice to have the FSM manual to double check where wires are supposed to go.
FSM can be found here http://www.autobooksbishko.com/ they also have a store on Ebay where they are sometime's be found cheaper.
Also the manual will tell what gauge wire and color you need for shopping purposes instead of trying to look at a wire and guess the gauge of it.


I bought new sockets for the front and removed the pigtails from the socket and used the wires coming from the harness and terminated them with the brass lamp terminals above, no soldering and looks factory.



Pull the entire harness, mark where things go and replace one wire at a time.


Dave

 

I bought a harness similar to this with same sockets.
I have been pulled over twice because of no lights on one side or the other.
What happens is they work loose and pop out of the lens.
So I had to twist them counter clockwise about 3 turns before locking them into place, so as the wire try's to unwind its locking the socket into place.

Dave

 

Fusible links and digital multi meter.

Dave

 

Just wanted to say thanks for sharing these! I just had a beautiful '82 D150 brought to my shop with the dashboard out and nothing but burnt wires.Now I can figure it out! And whoever took the dash out just cut the speedo cable/housing with a pair of dykes. But the rest of this truck is in great shape, engine compartment, everything is in good shape, intact. Body tags, codes, rust and dent free. Bed has a snap on cover. Old biker dude owns it. Just gotta figure out how to make something work for the headlight switch plug. Someone fried it when trying to fix the headlight switch. Looks like the ground wire - white/black stripe in dash fried all through the harness.