91 d150 5.9 magnum swap. So after my magnum swap, the pump seal started leaking last fall. Finaly got around to pulling the trans. I took out the TC to flex plate bolts, and pushed the TC back in and it moved approx. 1/2" back into the Bell housing. That seems a bit excessive. The bolts wouldn't start without pulling the TC back to the flex plate. So after I get the trans out on the ground I pulled the TC off, and the splines on the last 1/3rd of the reaction shaft are completely ground down and the reaction shaft looks like it hasn't been turning, and I can't turn it.
1. With my experience on Auto. trans. The TC should only be about 1/8" to 3/16" away from the flex plate. Right? The bolts should start without having to pull the TC closer to the flex plate.
2. What would cause the reaction shaft to not turn?? Could it be the TC not being engaged? Because I had to move it so far forward to get it bolted up?
I'm just curious, I planned on rebuilding it, but after seeing that shaft tore up, I'm going with a reman. I don't know if there is a bearing that's locked up back in there, or what. And I'll be getting a custom built TC that will bolt to the magnum flex plate with the 90* bolt pattern, neutral balanced, and still work in the 46RH.

 

I have seen torque converters move a pretty significant distance on the end of the various shafts, and work perfectly. Trouble we have here is, we don't know which is the cause, and which is the effect. If that shaft locked, while the engine was turning anything off idle, I could see it shredding the splines in pretty short order......

 

I checked the seal, it looks good. I'm not sure why it was leaking. It's not torn. But that shaft has me puzzled. Shouldn't it turn? I don't ever remember them not turning. But it's been atleast a decade since I've done anything with an auto trans. I've owned all manual gearboxes since 2003. I figured I'd change the clutches and run it, but after seeing that shaft I think I'm just gonna buy a reman unit. Save myself the hassel, headaches, and time. I'd like to tear into it and see what's going on, but I need it for a core.

 

Yeah, tearing it down to see what's up there would be educational, but, just replacing it sounds like the better plan. I would expect that there is going to be some carnage in there, that would require the replacement of a number of hard parts....... cost might end up being awfully close to just getting another one.

 

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yeah, I got a book but it's Japanese to me without going hands on, lol. And it doesn't really show where that shaft goes and what it does, and it doesn't say if it should turn or not. But to me if it has splines it must turn. The input shaft turns, but it turns hard. I've always wanted to see what makes these tick, but I don't want get into changing shafts, and what ever else is torn up lol. I was willing to change clutches. I'll have the book if I ever need it in the future. I don't recall any funny noises, but then again wide open with open headers I doubt I would have heard any. When it started slipping is when I backed off the throttle but I think the damage was already done at that point. I'd like to get a nv4500 for it, I just don't have the space for that kind of job. Of course a nice 4 speed side load unit from an old big block car would be nice, change the Bell housing, I know it would handle the torque. I never had very good luck with Auto trans. Except one in a 68 Plymouth. It would chirp the tires on 1st to 2nd shift at wot.

 

You can scan through these videos, he goes through everything... kinda slow, might want to increase the speed.

 

Thanks, I think I'll do that.
Got threw the first 3 videos. It is slow, but damn interesting. I've never seen so many snap rings lol. They look pretty easy. I'll go into the videos more, and if see what that shaft does, and if I can find out a price, I might just go ahead and rebuild what I have. Gotta watch more videos though. Thanks allot for posting that. It is interesting for sure.
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After watching the videos posted earlier and some searching, and if anybody else had/has this problem. The stator shaft does not turn, it's pressed/bolted in the pump housing And in high torque engines they will shear off, spin in the pump housing, or shear the splines. A bad bushing will also let the TC wobble inside the pump housing and ride on the stator/stator support shaft. I think that is what happened to me. Allowing fluid to leak past the seal. Think I'm gonna go with a reman unit. I'm sure there is metal everywhere in this thing.