Hello all- First time poster here. I have been working on a 92 D150 for a few years now, after building a motor for it, and some chassis lowering I sent it out for paint. So Im driving it back from the body shop, and I really havent had a chance to drive it since I dropped my motor in. It runs and drives obviously, but I have some issues with stalling, and the trans not shifting normally, as in I need to wind the **** out of the rpms to get it to shift. The stalling occurs when I come to a stop light- I may know why already, but thought I would outsource some ideas and other thoughts.

I bored out a 2000 360 block, new rings etc. Had a reputable shop do the machining. Also had Comp grind a mild cam for it. I can provide the specs, but I do not have them in front of me. The engine shop said this cam is as big as I could go(not very) with out messing with the stock PCM. Engine Quest heads(pressure tested out of the box) and shorty headers. Still have the cats in it, but those are coming out. Using the stock 318 intake that came with the original engine. When coming to a stop light for example, the idle is so low, that it stalls almost every time. If I throw it in Neutral, it may not stall, then I can put it back in drive and sit there. Idle is so low that the oil light will flicker until the revs are raised. Thinking injectors, or needing a PCM to increase fuel delivery, as it seems lean at idle. Pulls pretty good tho. Or go carbed......but do I need a new ignition system for that?

Problem 2 is that it doesnt shift correctly, which it was fine before swap. I did have to replace the kick down cable(with a NOS one I found online) as I broke it taking the old engine out. Cable seems to be the same, but I have to get around 3000 RPM for it to shift. If just light throttle cruising it wont shift until you hammer it. I will re-examine the cable install, as time allows.

Life is getting in the way of playing with the truck. I was kinda happy with it being out at the body shop over the winter lol. Any thoughts on my stalling anyone? Thanks!

 

Magnum engine? If so:

Did you clean the throttle body when things were apart Still using the 318 tune on the 360? (that's not gonna help.....)

Yeah, revisit the TV cable, sounds like you have it too tight.

 

Yup- TB is nice and clean. Stock 318 PCM- so that was kinda what I was hinting at with that question. Injectors seem to be the same ones in the 93 360 as my 92 318. If I found a Magnum 93 PCM for a 360, would that richen up the injectors enough? Def gonna go back on that cable. Thanks!

 

Yeah, I'd be lookin for the correct PCM, that will eliminate that as a possibility. I really don't know if the PCM pays attention to the O2 sensor at idle, I suspect it just runs off preset tables, so, you would be running even leaner at idle than it generally does anyway......

 

Quick check on Ebay- seems the PCM is the same for the V6 and both V8's- doesnt have a different part number for those years. Odd. Will keep digging on that.

 

you may want to look at 93 pcm's. in 92 the 360's never came with MPFI. that is why it may say they are all the same. the TBI computer may be what is showing up for all 3 like it would have in 88-91 trucks. may want to check rockauto

 

So quick update- I ordered a 93 PCM from rockauto, a IAC, and an O2. The IAC was $5 clearance, and I tried that first. Actually made a difference for like 50 miles. Then the surge came back, but doesnt stall now. So slightly better. Cringing if I throw the PCM in, because for $250 I cant return it if it doesnt do anything. Going to drive it to work tomorrow and see how it does. Its a third vehicle, so its just for fun. No rush.....but I did find out that here in CT, nobody will cut that cats out for me now that its emissions exempt...boo.

 

Did you reset the PCM when you changed the IAC? If you didn't, you should.

 

That makes sense- and no I didnt- Just a battery disconnect I assume?

 

Yep, disconnect the battery, turn the headlights on for a bit, then off, hook the battery back up, turn key to "on" (not start), count to ten, start the motor. Don't touch ANYTHING during this process, aside from the key. PCM will re-learn the 'zero' values for various sensors, and should figure out idle fairly quickly.