Spool/locker 9.25
An auto locker is always locked reagadless of torque, the springs keep it engaged, the cross pin is what transfers the torque to the side gears. In a turn the slack in the locker will allow the outside axle shaft to uncouple and turn faster than the carrier while the inside tire is the one being driven by the engine torque.
The No-Slip has a few more pieces inside for smoother engagement. I never took my Detroit apart to see its innards.
There's no slack in a Lockright when there's power applied. The springs keep the dog teeth meshed. This slight chamfer on the teeth let them slip/skip when there's no input torque. Applied power wedges the crosspin against BOTH drivers solidly. The Dana 60 Spartan on my bench is the same design. It's a lot like a Dana powr-lok in a way, but has teeth instead of clutch packs.
The No-Slip has a few more pieces inside for smoother engagement. I never took my Detroit apart to see its innards.
The No-Slip has a few more pieces inside for smoother engagement. I never took my Detroit apart to see its innards.
When you apply torque there is still slack on the opposite side of the cross pin, that's what allows the outside wheel to uncouple and ratchet when you go around corners, a Detroit works the same way but the slack is in the teeth instead of the cross pin and spider assembly.
Yes but there is still a gap between the sides and there is slack on the opposite side that the cross pin is driving.
You wedge a something into a slot it imparts force on both sides. It's clear we don't agree, so I'm going to drop it.
My point for the OP is mainly that a Ford 9" (F150/FSBronco) is a diff to consider. Same width and bolt pattern. Cheap parts. And based on my locker experiences with automatics, I'd save the $$$ and run a mini-spool.
Examples:
https://www.quickperformance.com/F9M...-_p_16000.html
https://www.quickperformance.com/For...-Set_p_12.html
My point for the OP is mainly that a Ford 9" (F150/FSBronco) is a diff to consider. Same width and bolt pattern. Cheap parts. And based on my locker experiences with automatics, I'd save the $$$ and run a mini-spool.
Examples:
https://www.quickperformance.com/F9M...-_p_16000.html
https://www.quickperformance.com/For...-Set_p_12.html
A spool on a street driven vehicle is a BAD idea. There is ZERO differentiation between the tires on the same axle. Turning corners on less than ideal surfaces becomes rather difficult. Tire wear is DRAMATICALLY accelerated. Spools are NOT designed for street use. If you ONLY drive on dirt roads/fields/snow(and not on roads) then sure, but, if you wanna take it into town, a spool is a downright terrible idea.
I ran a spool in my F250 for 6 months, it was very annoying any time I had to make a turn, and it wore the tires out quickly. I put a Detroit Locker in and it is much better, all the traction advantages of a spool yet it doesn't chirp the tires and wear them out going around every corner. I wouldn't run a spool again unless it was a mostly off road vehicle.
Found a 9" but it's been narrowed, allot. Looks like it'll fit a lawnmower, lol.
I'm not gonna run a spool, if I was I would just save the money and weld my 9.25. my current tires don't have 100 miles on them and the right rear is showing cords, lol. Glad they were cheap. My next set isn't about $230 each, but I only need 2 lol. Street legal drag radial, should look nice 12" wide.
I'm not gonna run a spool, if I was I would just save the money and weld my 9.25. my current tires don't have 100 miles on them and the right rear is showing cords, lol. Glad they were cheap. My next set isn't about $230 each, but I only need 2 lol. Street legal drag radial, should look nice 12" wide.











