87 d100 lift
I've got the same truck body as you have. Perhaps the bed length is different. Mine's a long bed but for all that
matters: that does not make a difference in lifting. (don't know if your shifting manual / floor...mine is!)
Gave my truck a 3.5" lift and it's not expensive to pull it off.
Most of the work is "hard and manual". Hope this helps:
What I needed to convert:
- Get lifting blocks between the frame and cabin / bed.
- Replacing your brakelines as they won't fit to the master cylinder no more
- Moving your radiator up and getting longer hoses
- For me no changes on the Fuel side cause I converted to LPG gas
- Adapting the angle from your steering collumn (as the angle will change to the housing)
- Extending your shifter if you drive manual so you can grab the **** without knocking your head on the dashboard)
- Lowering your trailer hitch if you've got one including wires
- I forgot if I changed something with the clutch system (I own the truck for over 20 years you see)
- (Manual) for floor base of the shifter (plaatic thing with the chrome ring) blocks shifting so needs extension of a short throw shifter)
With a 2WD, it is far more work as indicated in the post here than with a 4WD.
But....a 2WD drives nicer allover so when I am off road than I decided to rev up by 70%
I lifted mine because it looks good and I had more space to fit 3 pcs of LPG gas tanks under it. (one blow the cab and two behind the
rear axle to add some weight as well.
Was great fun to do and looks GOOD...keeps you busy for two weekends
matters: that does not make a difference in lifting. (don't know if your shifting manual / floor...mine is!)
Gave my truck a 3.5" lift and it's not expensive to pull it off.
Most of the work is "hard and manual". Hope this helps:
What I needed to convert:
- Get lifting blocks between the frame and cabin / bed.
- Replacing your brakelines as they won't fit to the master cylinder no more
- Moving your radiator up and getting longer hoses
- For me no changes on the Fuel side cause I converted to LPG gas
- Adapting the angle from your steering collumn (as the angle will change to the housing)
- Extending your shifter if you drive manual so you can grab the **** without knocking your head on the dashboard)
- Lowering your trailer hitch if you've got one including wires
- I forgot if I changed something with the clutch system (I own the truck for over 20 years you see)
- (Manual) for floor base of the shifter (plaatic thing with the chrome ring) blocks shifting so needs extension of a short throw shifter)
With a 2WD, it is far more work as indicated in the post here than with a 4WD.
But....a 2WD drives nicer allover so when I am off road than I decided to rev up by 70%

I lifted mine because it looks good and I had more space to fit 3 pcs of LPG gas tanks under it. (one blow the cab and two behind the
rear axle to add some weight as well.
Was great fun to do and looks GOOD...keeps you busy for two weekends
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Correct bodylift. I didn't catch it was for a suspension lift.
I also don't know what would be the best to pull that off, but since it's a 2WD the ground clearance would not be the target but the achievable height.
For sake of stability I'd say a combination of body and suspension lift would keep the costs lower than full suspension lift. But that's my assumption
I also don't know what would be the best to pull that off, but since it's a 2WD the ground clearance would not be the target but the achievable height.
For sake of stability I'd say a combination of body and suspension lift would keep the costs lower than full suspension lift. But that's my assumption








The lift gets more complicated, thus, more expensive..... To get 4" though, gonna have to spend some money.....

