Does it have the coffee can on the passenger fender? I'm not sure when they come out with these, I had a 77 that didn't have it, and an early 80's one that did. The coffee can is full of little beads and when it fails they get into your carb, and cause stalling like that. The beads get drawn into the needle valves and stall it out, after a few min they float out, and the truck starts again, after a while it plugs back up and stalls again. I tried to disconnect it and run without it but the truck didn't run very well. Maybe I needed a different carb or something in order to run without it, I don't know. I just got another coffee can and hose and cleaned the beads out of the carb and it ran fine!

 

Sorry Skatulaki,
I couldn't get back to you sooner, I did a number on my back slipping on the ice.
I hope to get back on it tomorrow. I can show you which carb I bought from summit racing if that helps.
then tomorrow hopefully I can get some pics from the truck. Hope this link works.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u.../1978#overview
As far as the coffee can I am not really sure, that I will have to check on.
Thank You.

 

Ok I got a pic of the carb, there is a coffee can on the passenger fender but only on hose is attached, I don't know where it goes to, and my back is not feeling good enough to get under the truck today. Where did you purchase your can from? Thank You..

 

The can is for vapor recovery from the gas tank. Not critical. So long as the vacuum ports at the carb are plugged.

 

They are plugged, that eliminates one more possible cause of the stalling. Thank You

 

Now that we have a pic i would see if the choke is working. There is a coil under that cover (left of the carb) I would take the cover off and inspect it to see if it's broke anywhere, Any debris stopping it from moving. It should open the choke as the engine warms up.

 

The vapor can is not the same thing as the coffee can, there is no mistaking the coffee can because that is exactly what it looks like an old 1 pound metal coffee can. So you probably do not have one, too early of a model.

Be that as it may, I'm not convinced you have a fuel problem, but maybe an electrical one. When it stalls pump the carb immediately after and see if fuel sprays in. If it does then I think you dont have a fuel problem.

One thing you can do that is very easy, sometimes it works but mostly doesn't. Is when it is dark out start it up and open the hood and watch it and look around, if you have a wire arcing out it can be easier to see it in the dark.
I've seen bad plug wires light up like a christmas tree and never noticed in daylight. I use that as an example, because you have changed your plug wires, so they are not likely, however other wires can arc and short as well.

I would first start with any wires that have anything to do with ignition, alternator and battery, check all connectors for tightness, burning or corrosion. Any wire harness near the engine block that could be rubbing.

I had a Jeep once that would randomly quit, no seeming rhyme or reason, be driving 75 down the highway and quit, then start right back up. Be going 30 through town and quit. "I think" I fixed the problem when I replaced the rageddy battery cables because I never had the problem after that. However I never had it long enough after that to really know. I had got a newer one because it quiting on the highway in high speed heavy traffic was too dangerous for my taste. I wanted to keep it, but one of those stupid laws that won't let you keep a vehicle without a tag and insurance forced me to sell it.

 

I think I have a fuel problem, The other day Moparite asked if the fuel was good, So I went out and disconnected the fuel line from the card and cranked it over to catch the fuel in a container, the looked and smelled just fine. I was surprised how much fuel came out in such a short time of cranking her. Today I had to plow, the truck ran fine for a while then started stalling. I took the air cleaner off before I started plowing so I could jump out of the truck and see what the choke was doing and every time I got out and looked, the choke seemed to be working fine. Ok so I managed to finish plowing. I parked the truck and went to put the air cleaner back on and noticed the fuel filter was almost completely empty. Could this be the fuel pump going bad? But like I said the other I was surprised how much fuel it pumped out in such a short time cranking it over. Could this be the fuel pump going bad and it's cutting in and out? Thanks guys.

 

Fuel filter won't be full regardless. Seems odd, but, that's just how it works. Does the engine start right up, and run decent when its almost empty? Does it fill up any more?

 

The penny just dropped!

One of two things are your problem. It could be your fuel pump going out. I've seen the new fuel eat the diaphragms up in them. However, before you condemn the pump, hook a hose up to a fuel can and see what happens.

The second one is one I ran into many years ago on a '54 Dodge Coronet I had. Going down the road it would start to bog down. I got irritated once with it and started pumping the throttle. It picked back up. Eventually, even pumping it wouldn't work for very long. A new mechanical fuel pump wasn't available but I did find a 6 volt electric pump. I replumbed the fuel line and fired it up with an electric pump pushing instead of a mechanical pulling. That's when I found the underside of the car with MANY leaks. My fuel line looked like a soaker hose. Rust had softened the fuel line and i was sucking air as well as fuel. Under heavy use, it couldn't pull enough fuel as it was almost an aerosol.

So, trace your fuel line and check both the metal and rubber parts. Look for any rust on the metal and any dry rot on the rubber. I ran an all new fuel line but left the electric pump in the circuit and had a hidden toggle switch as an anti-theft device. If the fuel line is good, then it may very well be your fuel pump.