She's been working on this engine for quite some time now. It's already been hanged once. After enough time and sweat one gets to the point that "This puppy WILL work by God!".I don't think I've ever seen an oil pump gear have a bent shaft, but that may just mean I've never come across one. these older engines are still available, but not like they used to be.

 

Pull the distributor and crank the motor over while looking at the gear, See if it wobbles.

 

So, I tested the the fire with a thingy-jingy called an ignition spark tester, as long as the ignition was in start mode there was no fire at all, except when the ignition was in run mode and then there was only one little spark. I'm at a total loss on what to do with it. I've replaced everything which has to do with the ignition, as well as did some rewiring. What the H-E Double tooth picks is wrong with this truck?

 

Spark testers only work when the engine is rotating. You've done so much, I may not remember everything you've done. Is power getting to the ignition switch? Not the key cylinder, but the switch on the column. Has the switch been changed?

 

Yes, the ignition switch is brand new.

 

Look at post #10 HERE find the (start as you call it) crank wire and test that for power when cranking. As i said before you have two power wires going to the ignition, One has power at ignition on(only) and the other has power during crank(only). Also check how it is hooked up to the ballast resistor if you have the 4 pin one.

 

Yes, I have the 4 pin ECU. You're talking about the red wire which runs from the ballast to the ignition switch, right? If so, then that wire has been replaced. However, that wire doesn't go directly to the ignition switch on my truck. It goes to the starter solenoid, because that's where I traced it to when I tested it. However, if you're talking about the blue wire that runs from pin #1 to the ballast and then to the ignition switch, I have not tested that one yet, but I have decided on getting a new wiring harness for the ECU as that is the only thing I haven't replaced. I think that will be easier than digging into the existing wiring harness to find the wires. By the way, I know they are not actually red or blue wires, that's just what is showing on the diagram you are referring to.

 

Red wire should go the ignition switch but the starter solenoid gets the same power from the ignition switch. Get a wiring diagram for your truck and find the wire that comes through the bulkhead connector and test it. Not as hard as replacing a harness. Look HERE are some wiring diagrams.

 

Hi Guys,

I thought I give y'all an update on my truck. Nope, still not running. Anyway, here's the thing. Since I had discovered that there was no oil getting to the top, I decided to do some further investigating. I have discovered that there was nothing wrong with the oil pump or the pump drive shaft. The reason oil wasn't getting to the top is because the a bunch of the push rods were clogged up.

Anyway, since I knew that I had to take off the oil pan and the intake manifold, I did some price checking, and discovered that it was cheaper to get a complete gasket kit. Since I will only use Fel-Pro gaskets when they are available, a new pan gasket was going to be $24 and the intake manifold gasket was $25. For roughly the same prince, I got a complete Fel-pro gasket kit, so I decided to to do to my truck what I did the my 67 Fury II. It was a good thing I did, too.

2 days ago I valve lapped the valves. Man, they were a mess, but I cleaned them up the best that I could. At least the valve faces and seats are clean now. The day before yesterday, I removed the rear main journal to put in the new rear seal. Upon removing it, I discovered that the bearing is worn to copper. However, when it was running before, there was no knocking, just some popping from sticky valves. But, it seems that a bottom end job is going to be in the near future. I also put in a new oil pump.

Yesterday, I put the oil pan back on. Also, when I jacked up the engine to get the oil pan off, I set back down and the stirrup on the bottom of the engine missed the engine mount stud and was sitting on top of the stud, so me and my assistant had to fenagle the stud back into the stirrup. We did that yesterday too. We also remove the radiator and the air conditioning thing that goes in front of the the radiator. Since I don't have an AC pump or the mount brackets, I'm not going to put it back in right now. There's no sense in having it in if I can't use it.

Anyway, air conditioning is the least of my worries right now. I have to get my truck put back together by the 17th as my assistant is going out of state for a few months, and he's the only one I have access to for help--and also knows what he's doing.

Today I have to re-install the starter and put the heads back on. Then remove the water pump and timing chain cover because I am putting on a new double roller timing chain that I had stashed away from my previous 85 Dodge d150. Hopefully we can get the oil pump primed and the pump drive shaft in--properly this time as it was not reinstalled properly from whoever owned it before. That's why when we set the engine at TDC-exhaust, and the rotor was pointing to #3 cylinder instead of #1.

So, when we prime the oil pump we're going to use an Allen-head socket and enough extensions to reach it, but tape them together with duct-tape to keep them from falling into the engine. We're also going to use a clear piece of hose, I guess aquarium hose, and go through the oil filter mount and suck some oil through that way. We'll also use the Allen-head socket to make sure the oil pump drive shaft is installed properly.

After we get everything back together, I'll put on the new ECU wiring harness I got from Summit, and then hope to God that it fires up. If it don't, after going through all of this, I don't know what to do with it. So wish me good luck guys. That's all I can hope for is good luck.

Thea

 

really seems like you need to watch this video. oil is distributed to the rockers through the rocker shaft and not the push rods