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85 Dodge D150 No Fire Happening

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Old Mar 13, 2023 | 05:59 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
really seems like you need to watch this video. oil is distributed to the rockers through the rocker shaft and not the push rods
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0UK...l=SteveKennedy
Thanks crazywolfie. Very interesting. I did not know that.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 12:57 AM
  #32  
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Wow, it looks like you were sold an engine for rebuild.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 04:28 PM
  #33  
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Hi guys,
I got a wiring question. Crazzywolfie share with me that I should get a wiring harness from Summit Racing, so I did. However, the wiring instruction that came with it is confusing me because the colors between the wires on the new harness and what's in my truck are different colors. I've been studying between my the schematics in my Haynes Manual and the instructions from Summit, however, Summit shows the blue wire goes to run on the ballast resister, but The Haynes Manual says that wire is supposed the go through a wiring cluster of red wires, which goes into a single wire that goes to the fuse box under the dash. I also realized that this wiring harness instructions is showing for typical OEM wiring for muscle car or street rod installation. Does that even matter? Also, which instructions should I follow, Summit's or Haynes?

I sure do appreciate all the help y'all have given me so far. Below is the instructions from Summit. I also included the schematics from my manual.

Here are the instructions from Summit.


Schematics from the Haynes Manual

 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Wow, it looks like you were sold an engine for rebuild.
Rebuilding it is what I plan to do in the future. Hopefully within the next year or so. However, the engine ran great when it was running.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 05:54 PM
  #35  
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I would go by summits instructions. Haynes tends to be rather generic, and not always accurate. Generally, the newer the vehicle, the less accurate they are. Getting a genuine Mopar Factory Service manual is always a good plan. Should be able to find digital versions for 20 or 30 bucks, print versions run into the hundreds.....
 
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Old Mar 22, 2023 | 09:43 PM
  #36  
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those instructions are pretty straight forward. black wire goes the negative terminal of the coil and blue wire goes to the ballast resister to get 12v.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2023 | 06:48 AM
  #37  
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Ballast get both crank and run power, I cant see the wire colors in the diagram. Looks like J10-16RE is run and J9-14PK is start(crank).
 
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Old Apr 7, 2023 | 11:12 AM
  #38  
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Unhappy A Progress Update and a Question

Hi guys, I wanted to give a progress update and ask questions. Well, first of all, I still haven't gotten to the point of trying to start the engine. I've ran into a snag. However, I do have the wiring finished, I just need to tuck it all back in. The existing radiator is shot, so full of junk, I can't clean it out; so I bought a brand new aluminum radiator with electric fan, so I'll be converting that, The snag I hit is this...

As I was trying to put the hormonic balancer (dampener) back on, it wen on maybe a half an inch and then stopped and wouldn't go on any further. So I watched some YouTube videos to refresh my memory on how to install a hormonic balancer. I also talked to my friend who is a certified mechanic about it.

Anyway, on one of the videos I learned something I didn't know. The hormonic balancer has rubber rings on the front between it and the pulley and on the back between it and the pulley. The guy in the video said that if those rubber rings are damaged, it can effect the performance of the engine. What is your opinion?

So anyway, I needed to pull the dampener back off so I could clean the hole and wipe down the shaft and try again. I tried for nearly two hours to get it off yesterday. I pried and pried and then installed the puller. I had to pull off the pulley to use the bolts I had for the puller. That's when I discovered the rubber ring was damaged. I turned the puller till the engine started to turn, then I wedged a crow bar in between two bolts so I could hold the engine still. I turned the puller until I couldn't turn it anymore. Well, it won't budge. I believe it is seized up on the shaft. Any ideas on how I can get it off? I have a new dampener coming from Ebay.

Thea
 
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Old Apr 7, 2023 | 11:49 AM
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Since you don't care about the old one..... doesn't matter if you destroy it taking it off. Might try squirting some PB Blaster into the hole the crank comes out thru. Can you post a pic of the front of the balancer?

That thing actually serves two purposes. Balance the reciprocating assembly, (less of an issue with the 5.2, as it is internally balanced) and also dampens vibrations.... If it can't do the second job, the engine will eventually shake itself apart.... Not a good scene.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2023 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Since you don't care about the old one..... doesn't matter if you destroy it taking it off. Might try squirting some PB Blaster into the hole the crank comes out thru. Can you post a pic of the front of the balancer?

That thing actually serves two purposes. Balance the reciprocating assembly, (less of an issue with the 5.2, as it is internally balanced) and also dampens vibrations.... If it can't do the second job, the engine will eventually shake itself apart.... Not a good scene.
Well, I believe I figured out what the problem is. First of all, I think there is something missing on the puller I am using. Second, I was using the center bolt for the dampener for the shaft on the puller. I realized it ain't going nowhere doing it that way. I'll upload a pic of the puller I was using. By the way, the puller ain't mine. I borrowed it from a friend.

Destroy the old one? How do you destroy nearly two inches of solid steel? Anyway, here is also a pic of the old dampener.


 
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