My question is how important is location of condenser?
Naturally they are always in the distributor .... I have heard it is fine to install them directly to the coil as in this photo.



Problem today is the quality of off shore replacement parts and I wanted to try something new. .... The shiny brass condenser is made from a different forum member and are designed for a certain distributor that they are mounted outside on the body of the distributor, not inside. .... The maker never tried mounting one this far away and had no opinion.

Video creators like Uncle Tony says it is fine to mount one here ... I never asked him, he just said it in a video about ignition systems ..... Do I believe him?

My current issue is, I installed this condenser awhile back and it runs fine ..... Because it is a project and not on the road driving yet .... when I start it up I will let it run for a hour or so just to keep things happy. After 1 hour it started to run crappy and then just died.

Next time I started it, it ran a shorter time and then just ran crappy and died.

Now it actually does not want to start, I have a spark tester on the plugs, and spark looks funny so I suspect a condenser issue.
This behavior started after I installed the custom condenser.

So what say the electrical experts here?
I have a few NOS condensers on hand, I have a known good condenser in the distributor as a backup .... the problem is servicing the distributor.

You can see it is located way down at the bottom of the engine, I need to use a step stool to get high enough, then bend over the fender almost standing on my head to get to it .....
Physically disabled my back does not like that ..... I just remove the distributor and work on it on the bench when it is needed.
Honestly adjusting the points is not bad, changing the condenser is just awkward and a real pita with the distributor installed.

So thats the reason why I want the condenser outside ... I would prefer this if it works.
Did I just get a bad condenser? .... or is this just a bad idea that will not last long next time either?

 

On all the points vehicles I worked on, the condenser was always mounted to the coil, or very near by.

I don't recall if coil resistance matters on those...... but, it likely wouldn't hurt to verify what the spec was, and see if your coil meets that spec.

Also wouldn't hurt to have a look at the points, make sure they aren't burned/pitted.... Sorry man, I know what a struggle that can be......

 

Well I admit I also threw out the question on another forum which is specifically old Dodges and got a few replies back.
the one that sticks out is the freshly painted surfaces .... The condenser will work there .... but it needs a proper ground.
I painted everything and never thought about a ground ..... I know what I need to do next. .... Lets see if it works with a good ground.

I'm new to this forum, but I like the community and hoping I can fit in. I know nobody but me cares about a 1993 Caravan ..... Think that one is done and ready to get back on the 49 Dodge truck .... maybe start a build thread on it .... I have a ways to go yet .... really do not see a appropriate place for it ..... I will continue to spam the daily chat thread

 

Maybe in Classics??? It certainly qualifies as one..... Here is fine too, I suppose. Though anyone searching will never find this thread.

 

No matter how you cut it, Points suck! Do they even make any electronic ignition conversions for that? A condenser is nothing but a capacitor, It does need a good ground to work. Is that an oil filled coil? I always keep them upright. I had one start to puke oil all over the wire.

 

There is a electronic ignition option for these .... they sell the aftermarket stuff and quality on that has also gone downhill .....

If I use a 70's-80's slant 6 electronic distributor ..... I need to swap shafts from my point distributor and install it in the slant 6 distributor .... There is two issues, the flathead is slotted shaft and runs off the oil pump .... slant 6 is same but it is a gear .... so shafts are same length and will interchange .... then the body of the newer distributor is slightly larger and not fit in the hole .....Some massaging with emery cloth will fix that.

Then you need 12 volts instead of 6 volts to make it work .... I'm switching to 12 volts and next step is installing my new wiring harness .... I can get OEM electronic ignition on this engine .... for now I just want to make it a driver and use what I have.

 

Kirk Engines makes a 'points saver' for tractors.... It replaces the condenser with a little electronic can, that gets a low amperage signal from the points, the the little can fires the coil. You get a MUCH hotter spark that way.... but, don't know if they have one for a six....

Yep. Check it out here.

 

Pertronix makes one.