Should just be bolted to some sort of mounts on the frame .... I imagine the biggest problem will be stuck fasteners.
I remember looking at my Uncles 1979 Dodge long bed to remove tank ... it was pretty simple. .... He sold the truck so I never fixed it.

As I remember it had 2 straps underneath holding it.
A quick search shows some might be behind the seats and the short beds may be different then the long beds .... good luck.

My 1991 Chebby truck requires the bed to be lifted up to remove the tank .... it has a custom made access hole in the floor to change the fuel pump in it.

 

Well, I was supposed to be working but I couldn't help myself. I went out and pulled the tank and radiator so I can get them to the shop to have them flushed and pressure checked.

The fuel tank was held in by 3 straps, I undid the hoses and ground strap before I dropped it so no harm in doing that. However, the top of the tank has a crack that fluid leaks from when tipped on the side. It is plastic, which surprised me.

Question: How do I get the fuel sending unit off? On a Chevy there would be a lock ring. This has no such lock ring. I don't want to apply pressure trying to turn it without knowing what I'm doing.

I sure hope these big rubber fuel hoses are available that connect from the filler neck to the tank.

 

I’m not sure of the size of those hoses but wouldn’t an auto parts store be able to set you up with the right sized fuel lines? Also, there’s a place in Kansas called LMC Truck. I’ve dealt with them a few times with no complaints.

 

It's not the normal 3/8" type fuel line I'm concerned about, but the big 3" (or so) hose that has a sharp bend in it. It's big like a radiator hose and connects from the filler neck to the tank itself.

I've looked at LMC and sent them a request for more info on their fuel tanks and associated hoses. All I see in their catalog is related to fuel tanks mounted in-cab which predates my truck.

 

The hose is available ... somewhere. I just bought mine from my local napa .... While they no longer sell it, a good ol boy just remembered they had a hunk of it in a back corner.
Think he said it cost about $40 per foot. .... Here is $20 worth.


Somebody remind me to tighten those clamps

I dunno what to say about the split tank .... My feelings are, is old plastic and if it is repairable, it might split somewhere else .... just old and deteriorated.
I did see one for sale for $250 when I did a quick search earlier .... something to think about.

I spent about $200 for mine 7 years ago .... bought a new sender with it and for less then $300 all new tank and sender ... about $200 for a professional rebuilt carburetor.
$40 for a new fuel pump .... $50 for new lines/filter .... it all adds up.

I will cheap out and take short cuts on some things .... a old poor fuel system will give you nothing but headaches ... get it running good then take your wife out for ice cream.
Fuel system will plug up and and you be sitting waiting for a flatbed .... your wife will hate the truck.

Again my project is different from yours .... I replaced my tank because it was 75 years old and leaking ... yours is newer, still is leaking though.
Your carburetor can probably just be cleaned up and put new gaskets/accelerator pump in it ... only has 21K miles on it.
Your metal lines are probably fine.
Fuel pump will not hold up to modern fuels without rebuilding it ... you can do this at home if you can find the right kit.

Fix the truck right with good solid drive train repairs, you will love that truck .... exterior looks great already, just clean it up.
Tires, brakes, fuel, ignition .... you will love that truck ..... 6 or 8 cylinder?I love the slant 6, the 318 is a pretty sweet motor all the way around.

 

Ah yes. We did this on my 83 a couple years ago. Plastic tank needed a new filler pipe grommet. Can’t remember the exact layout of it. I’ll look tomorrow. It might trigger a memory that’ll help you.

 

The large fuel fill hoses are not normally carried by chain parts stores. I had to replace a rusted fuel fill pipe on a Dakota and found a nice one at the bone yard. I got it out and someone had drilled a hole in the hose to siphon the tank empty. I found a section of the proper hose at the local NAPA supplier. Those hoses aren't cheap but the one I got had enough to make a custom fuel fill for another tank too.

Take a picture of the ring on top of the fuel tank. It may have a plastic ring instead of the metal one most tanks use. You press a tab in then rotate the ring. Back in the late 70's, I've seen metal and plastic tanks both. My '78 Trailduster used two tanks. A metal 24 gallon and a 40 gallon plastic tank. I have a spare 40 gallon in the garage and the top was held in ith screws.

 

You forgot about the large ice cubes it makes in the winter! I would pound on the hood a few times and that usually broke them loose. If you leave them in there after the heat from the motor starts to melt them they can make their way up to the windshield. The weatherstripping on mine was beat behind the hood/cowl and when it rained the water would drip on the hot motor and turn to steam. I have a 360 so the distributor is at the back of the motor. The steam would get into the cap and form water droplets. The spark would go everywhere but where it was supposed to go. I made sure that area didn't leak again!

 

When I ran a salvage yard back in the 1980's, we often sold later model dog houses to give a newer look and to get away from that. Personally, I like the sleek look of the scalloped hood. We also sold the front end off every 1970 Chevelle we got that was good for people to put on the 1971-72 models. The quad headlights were more appealing than the dual ones on the later models.

 

Think this sending unit is reusable? 😄



Drained the tank. I'm going to take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. There's a lot of visible sludge in the tank still.

What I drained was black gasoline. Nasty.

​​​​​​I'm going to just continue posting updates in this thread. I hope you'll follow along and always feel free to comment. I'm doing this by myself, could use any pointers along the way.

Also, someone previously mentioned I wouldn't have points in the distributor. You were right. Its electronic under the cap. My first of probably many returns to Advance Auto.