My wishlist is starting to get out of hand...
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
Well, I sent a $100 deposit on the MSD box and coil i found online (I only have $150 -> $50 to my name right now). Total is $285 with shipping for a $400 setup, so I'm still doing good. I get paid $135 in 2 weeks, so I just have to materialize $30 on my own spare cash to make the payment good.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
Things are slowly moving along. Need to get the MSD and coil put in, ordered the ultragage, and picked up a trans temp gauge and a cooler line tap for it. I'm talking to my axle guy about getting the locker put in sometime ASAP, and I'll probably take it to my trans guy and have him flush the trans and discuss moving the line pressure to suit the new convertor. I still need to cut and relay the TCCS wire to keep it from locking up and relay the fan shutdown. And tap the RWAL solenoids to be a linelock. Maybe put a normal line-lock on the front brakes too? [might save that for down the road, though...like, when I put new front brakes on it, which won't be too long from now]
Really, once the locker is in, that will be the last of the big-ticket items at about 1,000. The wideband is 170, linelock is 50, and everything else is pretty much free since it's just electrical.
Best number so far is 10.89 1/8 mile spinning the right rear leaving at 1400. With the locker, should be able to leave closer to stall and go full power out of the hole. Goal is still 8.99 NA/bolt-ons only.
1. Harland Sharp 1.7:1 Roller Rockers - Done
2. Clutch Fan Delete/Lincoln Fan Mod - Done
3. 4.10 Nitro gears - Done
4. Performance Torque Convertor (2400 stall) $150 - Done
5. Methanol Injection ($268) - Done
- a. Pump - $140
- b. Nozzle - $27
- c. Tubing - $30
- d. Tank - $11
- e. Blockoff Solenoid - $60
6. MSD ignition $285 - Done (used, not installed yet)
- a. MSD 6A Plus Ignition Box - $195
- b. HVC Coil - $65
7. Custom Hemifever All-Out Tune $100 - Done
8. Ultragage Digital Supplemental Dash $80 - Done
9. Trans Temp Gauge $50 - In progress
10. Powertrax No-Slip Locker $550 + Install - (Working out with axle guy now)
11. Transmission flush + line pressure change $125
12. Cut/relay TCCS wire + fan shutdown
13. modify RWAL as rear line-lock
14. Add front brake line-lock $45
15. Wideband O2 Kit $170 (http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templa...ubFolderID=928, AEM 30-5130)
16. Slicks and Wheels ($497):
- a. M/T 3019 slicks - $391
- b. Cragar 15x8's - $106/pair
Really, once the locker is in, that will be the last of the big-ticket items at about 1,000. The wideband is 170, linelock is 50, and everything else is pretty much free since it's just electrical.
Best number so far is 10.89 1/8 mile spinning the right rear leaving at 1400. With the locker, should be able to leave closer to stall and go full power out of the hole. Goal is still 8.99 NA/bolt-ons only.
1. Harland Sharp 1.7:1 Roller Rockers - Done
2. Clutch Fan Delete/Lincoln Fan Mod - Done
3. 4.10 Nitro gears - Done
4. Performance Torque Convertor (2400 stall) $150 - Done
5. Methanol Injection ($268) - Done
- a. Pump - $140
- b. Nozzle - $27
- c. Tubing - $30
- d. Tank - $11
- e. Blockoff Solenoid - $60
6. MSD ignition $285 - Done (used, not installed yet)
- a. MSD 6A Plus Ignition Box - $195
- b. HVC Coil - $65
7. Custom Hemifever All-Out Tune $100 - Done
8. Ultragage Digital Supplemental Dash $80 - Done
9. Trans Temp Gauge $50 - In progress
10. Powertrax No-Slip Locker $550 + Install - (Working out with axle guy now)
11. Transmission flush + line pressure change $125
12. Cut/relay TCCS wire + fan shutdown
13. modify RWAL as rear line-lock
14. Add front brake line-lock $45
15. Wideband O2 Kit $170 (http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templa...ubFolderID=928, AEM 30-5130)
16. Slicks and Wheels ($497):
- a. M/T 3019 slicks - $391
- b. Cragar 15x8's - $106/pair
Last edited by magnethead; May 1, 2013 at 02:03 AM.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
Two hypotheticals: First a baseline, then with a 22.0x8.0-15 tire (MT 3019), and with a 24.5x8.0-15 tire (MT 3015).
The difference from the 24.5 to the 22.0" tire is
60: 2.249 vs 2.131
330: 6.40 vs 6.06
660: 9.86 vs 9.33
MPH: 69 vs 73
the 24.5's cap at 86 MPH, 22.0's at 79 MPH.
The 24.5 would cross 9.86 @ 69 at 3900 RPM, 22.0 would cross 9.33 @ 73 at 4600 RPM
the smaller tires will lessen the load on the convertor, stall RPM goes down, goes into mechanical lockup sooner. So the smaller tires may be better for the holeshot + less slipping + better consistency. The engine RPM may be higher from slipping with a 24.5 tire than locked up with a 22.0 tire. Weighing the 60' pickup, 22.0 would be better
Code:
Assuming the driveline is 83.3% efficient [15% loss is considered the average, I compared chassis dyno and oem ratings to get the 83.3 number] and neglecting rolling resistance due to traction compound and resistance of inertia, My best sixty foot is a 2.481 with the 29" tires and 4.10's [7.067/330 @ 49.32, 10.894/660 @ 63.22]. Let's assume my truck weighs 4200 pounds. Force = Mass * Acceleration Mass = 4200 pounds / 32.168 = 130.56 slugs Acceleration = 60 feet in 2.481 seconds = 9.747 feet per second squared Force = 4200 pound-mass * (9.747 / 32.168) G = 1,272.70 pound-force Torque at hub = Force x Distance [radius] Torque at hub = 1,272.7 pound-force * 1.208 feet = 1,537.41 pound-force-feet Torque at driveshaft = Torque at Hub / rear gear Torque at driveshaft = 1,537.41 pound-force-feet / 4.10 = 374.978 pound-force-feet Torque after driveline losses = Torque at driveshaft / 0.85 [efficiency conversion] Torque after driveline losses = 374.978 pound-force-feet / 0.85 = 441.15 pound-force-feet Torque at input shaft = Torque after driveline losses / 2.74 [first gear ratio] Torque at input shaft = 441.15 pound-force-feet / 2.74 = 161.00 pound-force-feet OK, so mathematically, not accounting for external losses, my truck produces 161 pound-feet of torque with 29" tires and 4.10 gears.
Code:
Now let's reverse all of that and calculate with a 24.5" racing slick and if I remove the 66 pound spare tire and 12 pounds of weight per corner from the smaller tires: 161.00 pound force feet * 2.74 = 441.15 * .85 * 4.10 = 1,537.410 = Torque at hub 1,537.410 pound-force-feet / 1.02 feet = 1,506.03 pound-force Force = 1,506.03 pound-force = 4086 pound-mass * (X / 32.168) G 1,506.03 pound-force / 4086 pound-mass = 0.3686 G 0.3686 G = (X / 32.168) f/s^2 0.3686 * 32.168 = 11.856 feet per second squared Acceleration = 11.856 feet per second squared = 60 feet in X seconds sixty foot time = sqrt(60/11.856) = 2.249 seconds per this calculator -> http://www.wallaceracing.com/etcalc.php actual: 2.481, 7.067, 10.894 @ 63.22 calc'd: 2.481, 7.17, 11.26 @ 60.35 calc'd: 2.249, 6.50, 10.21 @ 66.58 If I can beat the calculated by 0.103 at the 330 [1.4% error] and 0.366/2.87 at the 660 [3.35% and 4.54% error respectfully] and those offsets hold true, 6.50 - .103 = 6.397 sec 10.21 - .366 = 9.844 sec 66.58 + 2.87 = 69.45 mph 6.50 / 1.014 = 6.41 sec 10.21 / 1.033 = 9.88 sec 66.58 * 1.045 = 69.57 mph So basically, I SHOULD pick up 1.03 seconds and 6.25 mph in the 1/8 mile from the smaller tire
Code:
Now let's reverse all of that and calculate with a 22.0" racing slick and if I remove the 66 pound spare tire and 12 pounds of weight per corner from the smaller tires: 161.00 pound force feet * 2.74 = 441.15 * .85 * 4.10 = 1,537.410 = Torque at hub 1,537.410 pound-force-feet / 0.916 feet = 1,678.395 pound-force Force = 1,678.395 pound-force = 4086 pound-mass * (X / 32.168) G 1,678.395 pound-force / 4086 pound-mass = 0.4107 G 0.4107 G = (X / 32.168) f/s^2 0.4107 * 32.168 = 13.213 feet per second squared Acceleration = 13.213 feet per second squared = 60 feet in X seconds sixty foot time = sqrt(60/13.213) = 2.131 seconds per this calculator -> http://www.wallaceracing.com/etcalc.php actual: 2.481, 7.067, 10.894 @ 63.22 calc'd: 2.481, 7.17, 11.26 @ 60.35 calc'd: 2.131, 6.16, 9.67 @ 70.26 If I can beat the calculated by 0.103 at the 330 [1.4% error] and 0.366/2.87 at the 660 [3.35% and 4.54% error respectfully] and those offsets hold true, 6.16 - .103 = 6.057 sec 9.67 - .366 = 9.304 sec 70.26 + 2.87 = 73.13 mph 6.16 / 1.014 = 6.07 sec 9.67 / 1.033 = 9.36 sec 70.26 * 1.045 = 73.42 mph So basically, I SHOULD pick up 1.56 seconds and 10 mph in the 1/8 mile from the smaller tire
60: 2.249 vs 2.131
330: 6.40 vs 6.06
660: 9.86 vs 9.33
MPH: 69 vs 73
the 24.5's cap at 86 MPH, 22.0's at 79 MPH.
The 24.5 would cross 9.86 @ 69 at 3900 RPM, 22.0 would cross 9.33 @ 73 at 4600 RPM
the smaller tires will lessen the load on the convertor, stall RPM goes down, goes into mechanical lockup sooner. So the smaller tires may be better for the holeshot + less slipping + better consistency. The engine RPM may be higher from slipping with a 24.5 tire than locked up with a 22.0 tire. Weighing the 60' pickup, 22.0 would be better
Last edited by magnethead; May 1, 2013 at 03:05 AM.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
Talked with axle guy, said he's never seen a powertrax locker make it past 3 years, they're designed to be bulletproof, but usually the springs break or the cogs strip eachother out.
Decided on an Auburn Clutch-type LSD, $421. Said he has good luck with them and they last a long time. Install date TBA.
Trans temp gauge and MSD are both wired up and ready to be put in. Putting MSD on top of the PDC lid with velcro, and mounting coil to airbox above OEM coil.
Also bought a set of Streetfire Spark Plug Wires, figure what I have now are cheap crap, but even these are 500 ohm per foot for $40, the MSD good wires are 50 ohm/ft for $100..but I can't justify the price difference.
That should finish out items 6, 9, and 10. Going to try and get everything buttoned up tomorrow.
Ultragage arrives tomorrow [they're based in New Braunfels apparently] so I might get to tinker with that, too.
I'm going to investigate items 12 and 13 when I can, 14 and 15 are for down the road, and 11 I'm not sure on.
16 is a pipe dream. :P
Saturday is the next race, so I'm trying to get the MSD on for that race at least [the ultragage and trans temp would be nice too], even if I have to limp by with the plug wires I have on there now. Hell, if they're good accels (I honestly don't know), I'll probably return the streetfire's.
Decided on an Auburn Clutch-type LSD, $421. Said he has good luck with them and they last a long time. Install date TBA.
Trans temp gauge and MSD are both wired up and ready to be put in. Putting MSD on top of the PDC lid with velcro, and mounting coil to airbox above OEM coil.
Also bought a set of Streetfire Spark Plug Wires, figure what I have now are cheap crap, but even these are 500 ohm per foot for $40, the MSD good wires are 50 ohm/ft for $100..but I can't justify the price difference.
That should finish out items 6, 9, and 10. Going to try and get everything buttoned up tomorrow.
Ultragage arrives tomorrow [they're based in New Braunfels apparently] so I might get to tinker with that, too.
I'm going to investigate items 12 and 13 when I can, 14 and 15 are for down the road, and 11 I'm not sure on.
16 is a pipe dream. :P
Saturday is the next race, so I'm trying to get the MSD on for that race at least [the ultragage and trans temp would be nice too], even if I have to limp by with the plug wires I have on there now. Hell, if they're good accels (I honestly don't know), I'll probably return the streetfire's.
Last edited by magnethead; May 3, 2013 at 03:20 AM.