So I bought my 99 dakota last fall knowing I needed a new condenser. I replaced that the other day and added compressor oil, and two cans of R134. It started to blow fine and all was good. Then I go out this morning and no cold air, all hot! I check the pressure and it is back to zero. I check my lines and one was not fully seated in the pain in the *** connection to the condenser. I lock that in place and put only one can in this time just in case it is a larger leak. It blew semi cold air which I expected since I only had one can in there. Then it sat all day and now blows HOT air again. I checked the pressure and it is at 45psi (?) The compressor engages for 2 seconds then kicks off, kicks on, kicks off. I know it usually does that when it is low but why am I at 45 psi if I am low??? I checked the psi with everything on. Anyone know what else could be wrong??

 

Put a thermometer in the center A/C vent,Turn A/C to max and see what temp you have.
Best would be to pull the vacuum, and see if it holds. If you loose vac, you have a leak. Can't get refrigerant into the system if it's not been evacuated

With the system evacuated, you can put in the correct amt. of R134a. Capacity should be on a st9cker on the evaoporator.
Did you change the accumulator, too? That's what catches trhe trash in the system.

 

I do not have a thermometer, but I am sure it is hot. What vacuum do I pull? I did not evacuate the system because I had everything removed (lines from the condenser). It took two cans of 134. I didnt change the accumulator. Is that a simple removal?

 

Connect the manifold gauges to the high side and the low side ports. -connect A/C vacuum pump to the gold hose. Start pump, open valves on the manifold set. When gauges read "0" psi, let run for 10 more minutes. You are boiling out the moisture in the system. (Water boils off at room tem. in a vacuum.) close the center valve and turn off pump. If you don't loose vacuum in 20 min, the system is ready for recharging. If it does not hold vacuum, you have a leak.
Changing accumulator is a remove and replace.
When ready top recharge, connect the refrigerant to the center hose close the other 2 valves and open the center. The R134a should slide right in. Might have to invert the can or put it in hot water. First can in with engine off, rest in with engine running and A/C on Max.Don't forget to close center valve when changing cans.

 

Ok, thanks for the advise but all I have to use is the gauge that I use to add the 134! I hooked that up today and found it was at 20 lbs (too low) so I bought another can of 134 and added it to the system. It took the can and stabilized at 45lbs and the compressor ran continuously. I get home and let it sit for a couple of hours and now the compressor kicks on kicks off. No cold air. I checked for leaks at the high and low side "inlets" and nothing there. I again checked the connections at my condenser and they are good. I noticed that the line from the high side is ICE cold behind the accumulator(????) Why would that be cold and no other line be cold. Especially the one on top of the compressor, you know, where you put the 134 in? Also, when I hook up the pressure gauge to the service port, when the compressor kicks on, the psi is 25 when it turns off it goes up to 50 and continues at those exact numbers. Please help!!!! Again, its too damn hot to be messing with this crap!!!!

 

Does anyone have any ideas on this??!! Thanks Guys!!!

 

Discharge the system, pull the office-tube. Check it for any type of happy crap on it.
Replace it for 4 bucks at any parts store. If your O/T is all clogged with black junk,
odds are your compressor is crapping out.
There's no need to put the can of freon in hot water with your type of compressor.
Your model type doesn't like to take the freon quickly do to the fact of where your port is.
By the way,.. You got a leak.

 

One way to find a leak is look for oily connections. Get a can of Dyetl (leak finder) a leak will show up as red. Good thought on orifice tube. If it's got junk on it, nuttin will get thru. You still have to evacuate system to get in the correct amt of R134a and to get rid of moisture in the system due to leak.

 

Ok, so I bought a can of r134 with the dye in it to see where and hell my leak is at! I put everything in, went back to the office, and sure enough, when I left, there was nothing in there. All hot air. I get home and put on my stylish green glasses and take the uv light to see where it is leaking. The only glow was coming from around the manifold, right where you add the 134. I kind of blew the test when I released the valve when I was filling it and some of the dye got on my hand and on the manifold. Should I be looking for a 'sh*t load' of dye???? Or will it be subtle?? I am really at my wits end here!!! My next stop is the shop, but as you guys know, whenever you can do it yourself.....DO IT YOURSELF!!! Thanks for the input!!!!

 

This cannot be good (courtesy of Alldata.com) Does this mean what I think it means[:@] I do not want to replace this!!! And yes, I am at step 8......




1.
Connect a tachometer and a manifold gauge set to the vehicle.


2.
Set the heater-NC mode control switch **** in the recirculation mode (Max-A/C) position, the temperature control **** in the full cool position, and the blower motor switch **** in the highest speed position. On Durango models with rear NC, set the rear A/C blower control **** to the OFF position.


3.
Start the engine and hold the idle at 1000 rpm with the compressor clutch engaged. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Group 24, Diagnosis and Testing section if the compressor clutch does not engage.


4.
During the test, the engine should be at operating temperature, the doors and windows closed, and the hood mostly closed.


5.
Insert a thermometer into the driver side center A/C (panel) outlet.


6.
With the compressor clutch engaged, record the panel outlet temperature every 30 seconds for at least five minutes. The temperature should drop at least 20°F. below the ambient temperature within the first 60 seconds of operation. The temperature should continue to drop. After five minutes, the outlet temperature must be at or below those listed in the Performance Temperature and Pressure Chart identified in Group 24 of the appropriate Service Manual.


7.
If the suction pressure meets the requirements listed in the Performance Temperature and Pressure Chart identified in Group 24 of the appropriate Service Manual, record the outlet temperature reading. Clamp off both heater hoses (inlet and outlet). Wait five minutes and record the temperature again. Compare the second reading to the list in the Performance Temperature and Pressure Chart. If the temperature is now within the appropriate ranges, the temperature control cable must be adjusted. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Group 24, Adjustment section.


8.
If the panel outlet temperature began to rise after two - three minutes of operation and eventually levels off at ambient temperature or, the suction pressure drops to 13 psig or less, or the clutch disengages and begins to cycle, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:AR (1) 05015440AA Coil, Evaporative, Durango Models
AR (1) 04885579AA Coil, Evaporative, Dakota Models
AR 82300101 Refrigerant, R134

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
R134a Refrigerant/Recycling/Charging Station
REPAIR PROCEDURE:




1.
Replace the evaporative coil. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Group 24, Removal and Installation procedures.

POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: 24-50-25-93 Adjust The Temperature Control Cable 1.5 Hrs.

24-65-02-98 Replace The Evaporator Coil 3.8 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part