can someone educate me on how you pull the pan....

i have the front engine mount bolts out, and the engine raised as much as it will go, but i need another inch.


how do you do it?

 

Have you removed the distributor cap??

 

if it's a 4x4, youre dropping the front axle, removing the dist cap isnt gonna help, you can only lift an engine so much before the mounts have no more give

 

whats in the way?..

 

d cap isn't even close to the wall or cowel area....and i just can't get the engine to lift any further for the oil pan to 'slide' out.....i even took the nuts off the trany mount

and it's 2x4

 

ok so i pulled the fan shroud, gave me about another inch or so but not enough to clear the cross brace or bell house...

what am i missing that i need to dissconnect/move to lift the engine further....

the dcap is still no where near hitting anything....can get it that high

 

can you rotate the crank and work the pan back one journal at a time?
I never did a Dakota but i remember having to do this on a 440 Duster.

 

i didn't take off the exaust y and that's what's not letting me raise the motor enough....plus the fan shroud which i didn't think about either

 

FROM FIRST GEN FSM, 2nd GEN IS BASICALLY THE SAME

3.9
REMOVAL—2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Disconnect distributor cap and position away
from cowl.
(4) Raise vehicle.
(5) Drain engine oil.
(6) Remove exhaust pipe.
(7) Loosen side engine mount bolts.
(8) Raise engine by way of oil pan using a block of
wood between the jack and oil pan.
(9) When engine is high enough, place bolts (similar
in size to the engine mount bolts) in the engine
mount attaching points on the frame brackets.
(10) Lower engine so bottom of engine mounts rest
on the replacement bolts placed in the engine mount
frame brackets.
(11) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.

REMOVAL—4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove front driving axle (refer to Group 3,
Drive Axles and Group 2, Front Suspension for the
proper procedures).
(6) Remove exhaust pipe.
(7) Remove transmission lower (dust) cover.
(8) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.

INSTALLATION—2WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation
and removal with a screwdriver.
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (4 corners).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
Nzm (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 Nzm (215 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Raise engine by way of oil pan with a wood
block placed between jack and oil pan.
(10) Remove temporary bolts from frame brackets
and lower engine. Tighten side engine mount bolts to
specifications.
(11) Install exhaust pipe.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Connect the distributor cap.
(14) Install dipstick.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

INSTALLATION—4WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation
and removal with a screwdriver.
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (4 corners).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
Fig. 1 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
Fig. 2 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
9 - 66 3.9L ENGINE
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
Nzm (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 Nzm (215 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install front driving axle
(10) Install exhaust pipe.
(11) Lower vehicle
(12) Connect the distributor cap.
(13) Install dipstick.
(14) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(15) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

5.2
REMOVAL—2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Disconnect distributor cap and position away
from cowl.
(5) Drain engine oil.
(6) Remove exhaust pipe.
(7) Loosen side engine mount bolts.
(8) Raise engine by way of oil pan using a block of
wood between the jack and oil pan.
(9) When engine is high enough, place bolts (similar
in size to the engine mount bolts) in the engine
mount attaching points on the frame brackets.
(10) Lower engine so bottom of engine mounts rest
on the replacement bolts placed in the engine mount
frame brackets.
(11) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.

REMOVAL—4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove front driving axle
(6) Remove exhaust pipe.
(7) Remove transmission lower (dust) cover.
(8) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.

INSTALLATION—2WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation
and removal with a screwdriver.
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (4 corners).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
Nzm (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 Nzm (215 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 17 Position of Oil Pump Shaft Slot
Fig. 1 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
Fig. 2 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
9 - 98 5.2L ENGINE
(9) Raise engine by way of oil pan with a wood
block placed between jack and oil pan.
(10) Remove temporary bolts from frame brackets
and lower engine. Tighten side engine mount bolts to
specifications.
(11) Install exhaust pipe.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Connect the distributor cap.
(14) Install dipstick.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
INSTALLATION—4WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation
and removal with a screwdriver.
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (4 corners).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
Nzm (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 Nzm (215 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install front driving axle
(10) Install exhaust pipe.
(11) Lower vehicle
(12) Connect the distributor cap.
(13) Install dipstick.
(14) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(15) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

 

dude you rock too....thanks