So...I've had an add-a-leaf and torsion bar keys waiting to be installed for a few months now. I was waiting for winter to come along. I'm pretty excited to see how the new leaves will help with the salt bags. I also got snow tires so I'm getting ready for another winter season.

Just have one question, thought...and it has to do with the leaf spring U-Bolts. Actually..just more of a verification. Here's the link:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLF-10464/?rtype=10

Just wondering if anyone has actually replaced these and got a good set. These I listed are 10" long while the stock ones are about 8" long. The new leaf should add a little bit since right now it's 1/4 away from the edge of the bolt. I was a little worried thinking maybe the threads won't reach with the added 2 inches. Whatcha all think?

 

When I put on 1" drop blocks on my Dakota to even out the Rake, I went with DJM and they came with longer bolts, however, they were untreated and Rust fast, and was going to get the Summit u-bolt package that you linked, then I found this other place that sold Stainless u-bolt pkg's that you custom order to different sizes so I went with that co. and im still trying to find the co. name as I type, but when I find I can add it to my post, sorry not here right now, but those Summits I heard are good, thats why I almost bought them, I just went one step further thats all

 

Well...I'm getting there with preparation for the season. I got my snow tires a few days ago: Dunlop Grandtrek SJ6. They are going to be installed on my stock rims, which will be left unpainted for now....I have more plans for late spring. I'm going to be getting them mounted on Sunday and they obviously won't be put on until the weather starts getting colder.

On that note, I also installed the add-a-leafs in the rear today. It was about 3 hour solo job while battling through rust. These leaves were rated to give a 3" lift. I can't tell that much difference looking at it, though...That may be because the front isn't leveled yet. I do have torsion bar keys ready, but I'm not all convinced it will be necessary to install them...I'm thinking a good crank should do. Other than that...looks a little cleaner now =P I applied some rust treatment on the top mounting plate...I was impressed by how clean it looks.

Anyway...more to come within the next 2 weeks or so. Pics!

 

Well...besides the alignment, that's pretty much it for my little winter preparation project. I installed the snow tires on Sunday, so it has a little bit of breaking in to do, but they ride very nicely!

As for the torsion bars, I actually ended up just doing a crank, which for the most part I'm pretty satisfied with. I ran into a few problems with that, though. I find it funny how the haynes manual said to just simply slide the key out after it's been loosened, when for me, mine is frozen to the torsion bar. So basically I wasn't able to get the keys off. I did however, put some rust treatment on the bolts and then greased them up. When I was trying to take the darn bolts off, no matter how much PB I used, that thing was frozen to the swivel. I put some torch on that thing and then it finally started to turn. With the added grease to the top of the bolt, the rest of the process was smooth. After treating the bolt and swivel I was actually able to tighten everything by hand, rather than my feet.

Rust sucks.

Anyway...it's dark and rainy right now, so this is all I got for now:




Man...seeing my old stock rims back on this thing reminds me of when I first got the truck...memories.

 

so how much lift did you end up with? looks good even with the old tires are the new ones 31's? im seeing more guys cranking the tbars all the way, now i want to.

 

The rear ended up with 3" The front got a good 1 1/4" I was actually counting on today's sunlight to give me a good judgment if I want to keep going with the cranking, so now that the bolts move freely, I might as well take advantage of that before they starts freezing shut. I wish I was able to put in the new keys, but oh well. As long as it's leveled out with the rear, it's no biggie. The new snow tires are 31" My plan with the rims were to have my steelies for winter with the snow tires, and paint the stock rims with summer road tires. I decided my old tires still have life for after winter, but just not for winter. Once my friend establishes himself at his new work, he can mount and balance my wheels for free, so that'll be good with making easy switches.

Overall the jobs were easy in theory, but it was indeed pain in the *** dealing through the rust and no air tools.

 

i only cranked mine 1.25" so i think you gotta go more. i was just going to get blocks for the back but do you have a link for the add a leafs? do they help more with it squatting with a full load?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc

This link shows the 2" and the 3" lift option. I haven't done full loading yet, but they are going to be able to handle more load and help not sag as much. If you're considering this an option, I can get you links to new U-Bolts. The size for that is 2.5" in width and 9/16" in bolt diameter. Mine, I swear, when I drop the rear from a jack, the suspension doesn't even flex...it just stiff hits the ground.

 

cool i was really just wondering about the price range that seems great. how are the ubolts almost the same price. dam. and if its that stiff you might need those salt bags just to soften the ride. i know mine rides better with a full bed on concrete.

 

http://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/p...it-1391-2.html

It'll run near 40 dollars for a new set. Have a cut-off tool ready for this, though. You'd need it for the center bolt, anyway.

As for ride quality, it isn't too bad. They'll need some time to settle.