SO after discussing the issue with a few mechanics they seem to think this is the Torque converter tell tell sign of it going out.....

 

So today.. I changed the oil, filter..
Pulled the TB off and removed all sensors and cleaned the heck out of it.. was a tad bit dirty.. esp the IAC not that it was stopping the valve.. just was dirty..

New gaskets.. ready to go

Then I changed the fluid on my 44re Trans, filter... not alot of shavings but the magnet on the bottom of the pan was just caked with grey sludge.

I really honestly think my problem 'shutter' in low speeds is something with the Transmission and nothing with the motor.. either a band.. TQ, TQC, or something else.

Anyhow,... after the trans service.. I swear its much better now.. still there.. but better.

I have one last thing to do on the Trans... The transfer case.. does seem to have a small leak on the bottom of the main seal of the trans case.. perhaps this could also be part of the issue.. either not enough fluid or something is up in there.. IDK>???

So once I'm able to get that done I shall let you know.

 

Next after this will be the rear end.. pulling the cover, checking for wear.. and that 'clip' people discuss.. Found one article that was discussing the LSD model I have on 4x4 version.. seem to have major issues back there..

Will be next in line.. Crossing fingers.

 

Take some video for us, I would like to hear:

First: A Cold Start, then let it idle and walk us to the engine

Second: Drive it and let us hear what is going on

Third: Hot Start (after driving it, shut it off, then wait 30 seconds, and start it up)

Four: After showing us what happens on the first drive in "D" gear, take us for another drive but this time drop it all the way into 1st and then let the truck slow down from 20 miles an hour and let's see if we can replicate it without the transmission shifting for us, since we will only have it in one gear from start to finish...this may tell us if the tranny is flipping out, or something further down the drive train.

The flywheel might be an issue, as with the torque converter. It's hard to tell until you tear into it :-(

After reading this post, I began to think (one of, if not all): Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, Idle Air Control (IAC) and the throttle position sensor (TPS).

Crank and/or Cam position sensors would contribute to a poor idle, and timining, but you would more than likely experiece a NO START situation on those sensors going bad. The IAC and TPS would certainly chime in with the rough idle while at stop...but the fact that you mentioned it occurs while SLOWING down, makes me lean more towards something in the drive train binding.

I think your engine may be fine, but if you have a warped flywheel (remember these things are measured by a tolerance in the thousands of an inch, so your flywheel could be warped by as little as 1/1000th of an inch and cause the engine to bind in just the right moment to cause everything to over compensate - As in your Crank/Cam sensor thinking it is coming to a stop, while your entire drivetrain is thinking it is climbing a mountain), or cracked torque converter that would certainly effect you truck.

The only thing I can say, take a weekend or two and start tearing down parts and inspecting them, or at the very least hold off on throwing money at engine parts, until you rule out the drive train (Torque converter, transfer case, tranny, flywheel, differential, u-joints, wheel bearings, drive shaft).

I am assuming this is an automatic transmission right?

But, try and get a video on here or on youtube and post the link...I am really curious!

 

Indeed.. I will try to take video.. but I'm not quite sure it will reflect the problem I've been having as even people sitting in the Vehicle including a dealer tech says "I don't feel anything"...

But I will certainly try.. I have moved beyond the motor as my prime suspect.. I suspect the TC or TCC, or the bands...basially some part of the trans... in any case the problem seems to be very lightly now since i did the service work..

I still need to do the 4x4 Transfer case and then the re-end. Fingers crossed

I am honestly considering taking it down to the local dealer for 108 for bumper to bumper diagnostics, PCM updates and all that giz.. if* I can't figure it out

Truck runs and drives good..

 

Before going to the dealer, call around to shops and find out if they have a Used Car Prepurchase inspection. These things are great for having another mechanic go through the vehicle step by step and finding issues...everything from body damage to stored ECM codes and potential pitfalls.

I have always used Christian Brothers Automotive. They charge $46 for the inspection. I do this about once ever year or so just so I can have a second set of eyes looking at my work. This is because most of my friends are not mechanically inclined, and they tend to glaze over when I start jibbering. In fact, I took my wife's volvo down about a month ago, I suspected a leak in my rear main seal, and sure enough the tech also located it and mentioned it in the print out.

I think you are on the right track, I sure would like to see your vehicle at 100%, I know from experience that having a glimmer of a doubt really takes a toll on loving a vehicle!

Good luck man, and keep us posted!

 

PITFALL!

Something new today.. I will post some vids tomorrow...

OMG!

 

Good deal! Can't wait to see the videos man!

 

So here are some video's... Not very steady and not sure what you can get from this.. but as I walk around the truck and under the hood listen close.. turn your volume way up...

Sounds like a clattering knock.. Perhaps lifter.. perhaps carbon.. I think I will run some seafoam through it and if it doesnt fix I will pull the valves, and take a gander with my paw..

From today:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=klKb7W60xLM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJhFq...er_profilepage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=1xPQogG4E6g

Taken a few weeks ago..
Just being stupid..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=08tlrJpjBFo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=znJhla0MRKM


Just some Photo's i took today thought I'd share.. nothing special..

IMG01241.jpg

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IMG01244.jpg


IMG01245.jpg

IMG01247.jpg

 

Thanks for the videos man!

From what I can gather, the engine "clack" sounds like your rocker arms need to be adjusted, with a combination of pre-detonation (due to cheap gas), run some Seafoam through the Intake and fuel tank, clean the throttle body and maybe run a tank or two of high octane fuel (91 or above) that should ease it up, then to really be thorough, take you valve covers off and check the rocker arm clearances (you will need feeler gauges - you can get these at harbor freight - and the exhaust & intake clearance specs). The clearance specs should be located under the hood on the factory sticker that states what type of spark plugs/wires are recommended, or someone might now that information on this forum.

As for the driving "clank", that sounds like your Transfer Case. My Silverado had the similar issues, although I could feel and hear it more when I engage 4Low and 4High, it was still noticeable in 2WD. Never the less, it certainly sounds like something in your drive train. Has the Transfer case fluid ever been changed? I think your rig uses 75w90, and would be completely seperate from the transmission fluid.

Thanks for the photos also, very nice looking truck! Is that the forest green color or is it black?

Hope this helps man, just be patient and methodical as you go through each component and inspect them, you will find the issue, and once you do, you will have pride in knowing you did the job right and stuck with it!