Weak start, new battery?
#1
Weak start, new battery?
So, I searched, didnt see much in like, 2 minutes...Everyone here has more miles and mostly more years on thier truck than me...what is everyone doing for batteries??? Just a diehard or what? Always liked the idea of an optima, but yea, not the price...not sure its worth it...anyway, might look around this evening as it was 3 outside this AM and the truck starrrrrted to slow down a hair on crank. And my Alt gauge seems to be drawing a bit more current than usual...
#2
People have said that Optimas are great, but from people I know that have used them...said that theirs died out too soon. Coincidentally enough those were used on 3 separate Dakotas and a Chevelle.
I replaced mine with a Duralast Gold. Better cold start and power...haven't had a problem with it since and that was 3 years ago.
I replaced mine with a Duralast Gold. Better cold start and power...haven't had a problem with it since and that was 3 years ago.
#3
#4
Do you know what Mopar batteries normally cost from the dealer? Group size 27 for our trucks, right?
#5
I would get your battery tested with out the terminals on first.. see if its actually bad or not.. and make sure its the right size as well.. Most of the time starting issues can be connections.. when temps drop or other factors.. a bad connection increases your ESR and less energy can flow..
If the battery tests fine and is the right size then its probably a connection issue..
Most bats for our year models are in the ball park range of 750~800CCA & 1200 CA ish.. make sure you have the right size in there..
If the bat was bad and I did not have the need for extra power for audio, plows or what ever I would honestly buy a DieHard or Interstate.. I hate wally world and parts store house brands with a passion.. they always seem to crap out..
I used to love the Diehard commercial they actually took one battery and started like 10 cars off the battery... while it was in a block of ice.. it was insane..
If the battery tests fine and is the right size then its probably a connection issue..
Most bats for our year models are in the ball park range of 750~800CCA & 1200 CA ish.. make sure you have the right size in there..
If the bat was bad and I did not have the need for extra power for audio, plows or what ever I would honestly buy a DieHard or Interstate.. I hate wally world and parts store house brands with a passion.. they always seem to crap out..
I used to love the Diehard commercial they actually took one battery and started like 10 cars off the battery... while it was in a block of ice.. it was insane..
#6
I'm not sure now, it was about 3 years ago I replaced it. I think now they are asking about $120 list. Give them a call.
I used to use Diehard in my other vehicles but that was a long time ago. I was reluctant at the time because I'd heard some negative comments. I've only heard good things about Interstate.
I'd probably clean the posts and check connections first. Get it load tested too before replacing it.
#7
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#8
I've had good luck with Wal-Mart batteries ("Everstart", the big yellow ones with ~1000 CCA) and Interstate Mega-Trons.
Johnson Controls Industries makes DieHard and Interstate batteries, as well as some Wal-Mart EverStart. EverStart batteries are variously made by all three of the major car battery manufacturers, i.e.: JCI, Exide, and Delphi.
Since the vast majority of batteries are made by one of those three manufacturers, any of them can be good batteries, especially if you get one of the "premium" versions. I think Wal-Mart batteries are the best bang for the buck, because they offer "premium" versions that are made by one of those three major companies (all of them know what they are doing when it comes to making batteries); and at relatively low prices (which are made possible because Wal-Mart is such a juggernaut when it comes to buying power).
I had a big yellow ~1000 CCA Wal-Mart EverStart that I had in three different vehicles over a period of about 5 years, with a 1000 watt and an 800 watt audio amplifier in each of them no less (those are "real" watts, i.e., RMS measured @ 13.8 VDC @ .1% THD), which I played plenty loud, and plenty often. I never had a problem with that battery, and it was still working fine when I junked the last vehicle it was in (the transfer case froze up, locked my rear wheels while going down the highway at 65, went into the ditch, bounced off a tree, and wasn't worth fixing).
I had a small Interstate Mega-Tron (sized to fit in an '84 Ford Escort, which was the vehicle I originally bought it for) which worked fine for the 2 years it was in the Escort, and for the next 8 years that it was in an '83 Ford F100 (even though it was technically undersized for that truck), and it was still fine when I got rid of the F100. That one didn't have to deal with a powerful stereo system though.
#9
+1 to the ice is only 32deg....not too impressive to me. But anyway..
I may get it tested..not too worried. My truck is in good shape otherwise too. It's still the original battery, never had issues for 7yrs from Pa to Ny. I have some extra elec. draw, but not a ton. I'm prob going to pull an extra set of wires and monitor it with a multimeter for a day or so.
Also gonna look into manufacturers like Maxim has...Im in no rush..just wanted a quick survey of what people had. As nice as optimas are, dont think its worth 100 over a nice Gold Duralast. Basically prob what Ill get...look around tomorrow in case I need one...
I may get it tested..not too worried. My truck is in good shape otherwise too. It's still the original battery, never had issues for 7yrs from Pa to Ny. I have some extra elec. draw, but not a ton. I'm prob going to pull an extra set of wires and monitor it with a multimeter for a day or so.
Also gonna look into manufacturers like Maxim has...Im in no rush..just wanted a quick survey of what people had. As nice as optimas are, dont think its worth 100 over a nice Gold Duralast. Basically prob what Ill get...look around tomorrow in case I need one...
#10