Road noise or vibration, goes away on right hand ramps
Im having the same trouble with the humming sound from the front end, and it goes away around right hand turns. question is how did you get your hub off I pulled off my wheel rotor and axle nut and all. talked to the guy at advance and he said use a slide hammer to bolt to it and the assembly should pop right off. I got everything lined up and slammed that hammer for a good 20 mins with no movement at all and used PB blaster to try and separate it from the spindle. Any info on how to get the two to separate would be great.
also when i had the rotor off i noticed that it was quite tough to turn my cv axle could changing my front diff fluids at 103000 miles be needed and possibly greasing my univeral joints for the front drive shaft?
Go to work on the thermostat and end up jumping into the wheel bearing assembly and changing tensioners as well. thermostat changed, tensioners changed, coolant changed, wheel bearing assembly kicked my ***.
also when i had the rotor off i noticed that it was quite tough to turn my cv axle could changing my front diff fluids at 103000 miles be needed and possibly greasing my univeral joints for the front drive shaft?
Go to work on the thermostat and end up jumping into the wheel bearing assembly and changing tensioners as well. thermostat changed, tensioners changed, coolant changed, wheel bearing assembly kicked my ***.
Last edited by 2002dakotakid; Mar 26, 2012 at 08:23 AM.
I took some chunks of scrap 2X4 and set them so the knuckle itself was supported well with the bolts facing down towards the ground with some clearance under them. Hit the thing with PB blaster and let it soak for a few, then took a 5 pound sledge and hit the bearing dead center. Important part is to be a little careful to not kill your steering knuckle. Beat the hub as much as you want but make sure you are careful.
I also would occasionally hit the triangular front side of the old bearing to try and rotate it slightly within the steering knuckle and get it moving. Once I had a little gap between the front flush mount faces of the knuckle and hub, I put a metal chisel in there to pry them apart some and hit it some more with the sledge on the 2X4s. Just keep tapping on it and hitting it in all directions and it should free up.
I also would occasionally hit the triangular front side of the old bearing to try and rotate it slightly within the steering knuckle and get it moving. Once I had a little gap between the front flush mount faces of the knuckle and hub, I put a metal chisel in there to pry them apart some and hit it some more with the sledge on the 2X4s. Just keep tapping on it and hitting it in all directions and it should free up.
Did you disconnect the spindle from the control arms? and did you remove your cv axle to do so? i had a slide hammer mounted to the lugs and the cv axle pushed in and was trying to pull the thing out with out disconnecting my spindle! if you did take your spindle off did you also take your tierod off?
btw i was also doing this in the rain with the standard scissor jack provided courtesy of the manufacturer and about half the tools i own in the side yard at school.
btw i was also doing this in the rain with the standard scissor jack provided courtesy of the manufacturer and about half the tools i own in the side yard at school.
thanks to ya'll for the info saved me from taking off the right hand side and doing both wheel bearing assemblies. changed only the left and runs like a dream. no humming like riding on glass. also would like to add do not trust air tools when i was finishing up i was putting everything back on and i don't know if it was my impact or the way the rotor was sitting on the hub, but i ended up driving around and having a new sound but it went away when hitting the brakes, so i figured brakes . WRONG i jacked up my front left and made sure everything was tight behind the wheel and looked snug, it was but when i went to take off my wheel to check my lugs were loose. glad one was tight or else i prob would not have made the 100+mile drive back to school. new self rule always double check after using air tools with ratchet or wrench.
thanks for the info again
thanks for the info again



