well my dakota has been playing games recently. When I go to start it up it has been starting fine. All of sudden it sounded terrible when it started up like the engine wasn't fully engaging and like it was going to cut out. It reminded me of like a vehicle with a bad carb. Now starting up it sounds like its going to stall out. Keeps starting up horribly. My exhaust is also leaking again so this time I'm getting it welded at the shop. What would make my truck start up so bad and sound like its going to cut out and the engine isnt getting power for a good 45 seconds. Then I give it gas or start driving and it feels ok. Its also not been starting at all when I just get a click one time like the battery is dead but the lights work and radio and all. So i thought it was the negative battery cable as the connection was lose so I bought a new end put it on tightened it down fired it up and it sounded fine and started rite up. Since then it has been doing this stuff where it just will give me a single click then nothing but lights and radio still work. I have to pop the hood and tighten and untighten the cable and move it around then eventually it will start and start up sounded like crap again. Any ideas I'm lost?

 

it did start up in the past where for a second or two u could hear a hesitation in the vehicle and then the engine kicked in fully but now the hesitation lasts a very long time. The battery deal is really confusing me. Help please!!!!

 

Did you check this distributor? because i know i had the same problem and a new cap fixed everything.

 

i havn't is there any way to check it other then replacing it?

 

Ok... What you described could be many different things.. LOL.. Lets start with the basics.

No power=NO sparky spark.. so first get that battery tested out and recharged make sure it holds a charge and is good; if no good - replace it.. first thing. Make sure the connections are all good an no old crud is built up.. You want a good transfer of power both Hot and - terms on your batter. If they are old; tarnished and making Battery Crack (White powder) replace the terminals while your at it. Have your Alt checked out too. Make sure its chargeing.

If problem persists. Check your Air filter make sure its clean.. Then check your IAC valve on the back of your TB make sure its opening when you go to the "on' position with the key.. it should open up quite a bit when you first turn the key on and hold there untill the truck fires up.. RPM's go up to 1200K or so.. then settle down around 1K-900 ish.. untill she warms up to about 500-600

If all that is good and working.. and we are sure its getting air.. move on next. Tune up items.

A. Plugs
B. Plug Wires
C. Rotor (Inside dist. Cap)
D. Dist. Cap

When were these things changed out?

Next.. If you manually prime the truck using the key.. turn on for a few seconds.. turn off then back on for a second or two before the truck starts does it fire right up do you still need to press the gas peddle.

Lets start there for now.

 

I only replaced one of the ends on the battery cable I need to replace the other. I just replaced the one because it wouldn't tighten anymore and was still loose. I will change the other one in the am. The air filter I know is good as I just put a k&n cold air intake on it not to long ago. Battery is good because the radio and lights still work even when its playing games. The plugs rotor cap distributor I have no clue when they were last replaced but when I bought my truck about 6 months ago the shop that inspected it say the plugs, wires and all looked new.

 

IAC is that the sensor your talking about or is it a valve?

 

You usually dont want to listen to the shops because either they will be to lazy to truely check your vehicle or they will break something and charge you to fix it when its unnecisarry. I had the same problem with my truck you will want to replace the cap. You can check it by pulling off the cap witch will be two screws on either side and pull the cap up. Look at the points if they look corroded you need a new cap and point which is like 13-23$ depending on where you go.

 

IAC Valve is on the back of the throttle body.

 

ok guys so I never replaced the positive cable end I only did the negative because I was short on time so today I changed the positive cable end after noticing that the end of the cable just looked beat up. After changing it my truck started up great without any problems. Lets hope it continues. Would this of affected anything but the start up?