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Stripped spark plug

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  #21  
Old 04-26-2012, 12:03 AM
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:45 PM
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I didn't get to work on the cable today - it was raining pretty bad all day here. Hopefully tomorrow?

Thanks a lot for hunting down those links for me. I figured-on those tubes being press fitted into the back-side of the heads - now that I've watched the video, it makes sense that they go through to the block in order to keep the oil outta there. I'm on my own if I want to take on removing the heads so, I'm gonna have to leave it and keep my fingers crossed that the plug doesn't crap-out anytime soon.
...As much as it's going to bother me that I have to leave it.

Thanks again!
 
  #23  
Old 04-26-2012, 11:13 PM
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That video does not apply to the 3.9, 5.2, or 5.9. All you have are heat shields, nothing more. They are just a piece of metal. You can grab them with a pair of pliers, give them a twist, and they'll eventually come out.

They do not keep the oil out of anywhere.
 
  #24  
Old 04-26-2012, 11:24 PM
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Default yes correct 00DakDan

yes correct 00DakDan i think he got confused by the one video all it was ment to show was how to use a socket to remove the sheild and the vid was on a different car all together.

just use some vise grips and a lot of muscle
 
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:42 PM
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That clears my nagging thought of why the sleeve/tube/heat shield has the gap down the side rather than a contained tube construction.

Considering my predicament, I would still have to remove the head to get the plug out.

This is a help to me.

I appreciate the help
00DakDan!


Originally Posted by 00DakDan
That video does not apply to the 3.9, 5.2, or 5.9. All you have are heat shields, nothing more. They are just a piece of metal. You can grab them with a pair of pliers, give them a twist, and they'll eventually come out.

They do not keep the oil out of anywhere.
 
  #26  
Old 04-26-2012, 11:59 PM
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I more-or-less got another idea of what to lookout for. That video still helped me out - seeing the process of assembly/disassembly makes it more realistic for me to do... but dealing the corrosion through that is a whole different matter.

Either way, I cannot get that plug out as things stand and there's no chance that I'll be able to yank the heat shield out with the plug impeding the whole process. I have no other choice than to remove the header.



Originally Posted by 98DAKAZ
yes correct 00DakDan i think he got confused by the one video all it was meant to show was how to use a socket to remove the sheild and the vid was on a different car all together.

just use some vise grips and a lot of muscle
 

Last edited by macgollabhride; 04-27-2012 at 12:41 AM.
  #27  
Old 04-27-2012, 10:16 AM
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Default If thats it then

If you are going to remove the heads you may as well get them redone and gain back some power and look for some junkyard exhaust headers to replace those rusted to hell headers.

Getting those off may be just as hard as the sparkplug tube so either way you have some hard work coming your way.
 
  #28  
Old 04-27-2012, 10:21 AM
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Default The point of diminishing returns

It sounds like the point of diminishing returns is fast approaching think carefully maybe a new engine is a better idea to everything factor the costs out well and come to a conclusion.
 
  #29  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:40 PM
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Maybe you can get the plug out this way. Take a spark plug socket and extension if necessary, get it lined up on the flats as best you can then beat it on with a hammer. It will deform the metal from the heat shield as you drive it on.
 
  #30  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:52 PM
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Default I think

I think he already tried that or so he said maybe he is not using enough force or he is not confident he can do it.

When new to DIY you can be over cautious about such things

Sometimes a big hammer is the correct answer
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 04-27-2012 at 01:55 PM.


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