When I posted #15 he didnt have the pic's showing the gauge settings but now that I see that pic just adding Freon may be the answer.

 

Those first gauge pic's were misleading the new pic today clears things up.

Pump it up and see what happens

 

Look at your pic that says.... (i suspect this could be a leak?) thats it.

If you do replace the dryer yes you need to add some oil it will have some oil inside it

If you evac the system yes all freon is now gone

 

Yes I’m a A/C psycho NUT when it comes to COLD A/C.

Why I live in HOT Arizona we take our A/C very serious we want our A/C working at its tip top BEST actually we want our A/C to work at 130% not anything less.

In Arizona we want COLD and powerful A/C not just OK A/C

We also try our best to squeeze out the best from our A/C thus the Trick I posted last week or so.

So if it seems like Im going overboard on this A/C stuff you now know why.

 

What line are you going to replace?

Charge the system, we know its low. 24 psi will trip the low pressure switch.

There is a chart in the FSM with how much oil to add for each part. Just changing a line doesn't require any oil to be added. The accumulator (receiver/dryer) takes 3 ounces.

If you decide to evacuate the system you can leak check that way too. If it won't pull a vacuum you know you have issues.

Why am I reluctant to start changing o-rings, etc.? Because it's an older system you might damage the fittings getting them apart. Dakota's are also known to have leaky evaporators. So, just "shot-gunning" doesn't make sense unless you know you have a problem. When charged, the gauge readings can indicate if the orifice tube is clogged or not.

FYI the specs on the low pressure switch are it opens at 24 psi +/- 1 psi. Resets at 39.

 

Personally you can pick up some recharge cans that include the oil and leak detector..

If any leaks are present it will see the green discolor where ever a leak is.. but also.. if you can use a hot wire and the compressor kicks on then probably being the system is too low its not gonna kick it on.. or the sensor is bad (Seen that alot) that sensor connects right there on stop..

So i would put a can of recharge in the system.. see if starts working.. and then you can also find any leaks if they are present..

I have a leak on my wife's car.. I can recharge the system with about 2 cans and it lasts about a year-year and half.. sometimes.. its cheaper than repairing it.. sometimes.

 

I’m not saying the orifice tube is clogged or you wouldn’t have any A/C I’m saying it may be partially clogged reducing its potential and if you are going to open the system up you may as well replace the thing its only $5 at the store?

He doesn’t need to replace any lines unless they are damaged.

Yes I highly recommend a leak test be done to catch any other leaky parts/seals.

The older Dakotas had those crappy bad pop fittings prone to leaks like crazy because they are a free floating fitting the O-rings get constant movement wearing the O-rings down and the aluminum tubing gets worn down at the same time it’s not the popping them open that wares them down its the constant free floating movement in the joint.

 

that line has the orfice tube?

like you had said mike i know i could just throw a can in and call it a day, but i want to stop the leak for good. which means i want to replace the o rings, the orfice, and accum/drier like you advised.

just so that in the future i wont need to worry about recurrences of the issue. i just ordered the parts off of rock auto.

by next weekend i should have all my tools gathered up to tackle this job. i will keep you guys informed of my progress and the help i may need. i appreciate all the help on the topic. once this is all squared away i may try that heater core trick with the cutoff valve.

 

Starting a web on these bad pop fittings and how to fix the problem.


http://dakota-4.com/

this web is just starting so its way not finished

 

Just beware those O-ring kits don’t always have all the O-rings you may need check them thoroughly to see if they do work the O-rings that is this is a frustrating part of changing the O-rings making sure you have the correct size even if the bag you get says they fit your year Dakota they may be the wrong size...Go figure?

I asked the guy at NAPA if there was a chart on the correct O-rings needed and he said NO there is nothing on paper explaining the correct O-rings needed.

WTF?