A/C issues, need help before heat hits!
This is from the Dodge FSM:
SYSTEM EMPTY
(1) Evacuate the refrigerant system.
(2) Connect and dispense 0.283 kilograms (0.625 pounds or 10 ounces) of R-134a refrigerant into the evacuated refrigerant system
(3) Position the vehicle in a wind-free work area. This will aid in detecting small leaks.
(4) With the engine not running, use a electronic R-134a leak detector and search for leaks. Because R-134a refrigerant is heavier than air, the leak detector probe should be moved slowly along the bottom side of all refrigerant lines, connector fittings and
components.
(5) To inspect the evaporator coil for leaks, insert the electronic leak detector probe into the center instrument panel outlet and the floor duct outlet. Set the blower motor switch to the lowest speed position, and the mode control switch in the recirculation mode (Max-A/C).
SYSTEM EMPTY
(1) Evacuate the refrigerant system.
(2) Connect and dispense 0.283 kilograms (0.625 pounds or 10 ounces) of R-134a refrigerant into the evacuated refrigerant system
(3) Position the vehicle in a wind-free work area. This will aid in detecting small leaks.
(4) With the engine not running, use a electronic R-134a leak detector and search for leaks. Because R-134a refrigerant is heavier than air, the leak detector probe should be moved slowly along the bottom side of all refrigerant lines, connector fittings and
components.
(5) To inspect the evaporator coil for leaks, insert the electronic leak detector probe into the center instrument panel outlet and the floor duct outlet. Set the blower motor switch to the lowest speed position, and the mode control switch in the recirculation mode (Max-A/C).
The first thing you should of done before any Freon is pumped in is make sure it has no leaks vacuum to -15 or -30 psi I forget that exact figure let it sit two hours if the pressure drops back to 0 you have a leak it should stick to the negative side if no leaks.
Now if the leak is in a valve like the low side or high side port that will never show up on the vacuum pump leak test but if it shows no leaks on the pump vacuum test and you leak after then it’s probably a valve. Thats why you always replace the port valves to make sure.
Sounds like you forgot a seal if it leaked out that fast if I understand you correct.
A/C work is best done in a slow perfect manner if one O ring is wrong you have problems it’s a must to follow exactly each step you rush it you will suffer.
Stop and think what step did you forget?
I have had mechanics say they let the vacuum pump run all night to remove any moisture in the system to make sure no moisture is in the system.
But first you must make sure it doesn’t leak then run the pump for a few hours.
Now if the leak is in a valve like the low side or high side port that will never show up on the vacuum pump leak test but if it shows no leaks on the pump vacuum test and you leak after then it’s probably a valve. Thats why you always replace the port valves to make sure.
Sounds like you forgot a seal if it leaked out that fast if I understand you correct.
A/C work is best done in a slow perfect manner if one O ring is wrong you have problems it’s a must to follow exactly each step you rush it you will suffer.
Stop and think what step did you forget?
I have had mechanics say they let the vacuum pump run all night to remove any moisture in the system to make sure no moisture is in the system.
But first you must make sure it doesn’t leak then run the pump for a few hours.
got everything straightened out, was holding vacuum at -30 for 1hr pumped my freon in to get my gauge to 35-38 on my low side and about 150 on high. i was told to never go above 40 on low side and to not go by the ambient temp chart in risk of having too much pressure and messing compressor up, since my vehicle is older by a professional.
issue now is that my compressor only spools when i have it tripped. this leads me to think that the switch i used from my old accumulator could be bad or the actual plug itself(which is called A/C Clutch Switch i think?). when i had my paper clip in it i had to jiggle it around to get it to spool which would lead me to think bad contacts. any ideas?
and no there is no leaks and there is enough pressure.
issue now is that my compressor only spools when i have it tripped. this leads me to think that the switch i used from my old accumulator could be bad or the actual plug itself(which is called A/C Clutch Switch i think?). when i had my paper clip in it i had to jiggle it around to get it to spool which would lead me to think bad contacts. any ideas?
and no there is no leaks and there is enough pressure.
Last edited by Brian_; May 25, 2012 at 10:07 PM.
Must be one of the sensors either the Freon high side or the low side one the low side is cheap $15 the high side or Refrigerant Pressure Switch are not cheap $65
What one are you jumping? low side or high side
You replaced the relay correct?
If you said it was jumpy you may have a wiring problem look at the connectors on the two sensors closely do any of the wires look kind of beat up lose?
What one are you jumping? low side or high side
You replaced the relay correct?
If you said it was jumpy you may have a wiring problem look at the connectors on the two sensors closely do any of the wires look kind of beat up lose?
Brian
If you need a high side sensor I have two I don’t need or use I have been buying used A/C lines and have received a few for free these last few months with the switches attached I even have a few low side ones but the shipping would be the same as the price of new I’m afraid for the low side one.
Buying used has its upside at times
If you need a high side sensor I have two I don’t need or use I have been buying used A/C lines and have received a few for free these last few months with the switches attached I even have a few low side ones but the shipping would be the same as the price of new I’m afraid for the low side one.
Buying used has its upside at times
Brian,
What pressures do you have and at what temperature. If you're testing at 90+ you're going to be approaching 40 psi low. Your system, older or not, is designed for these pressures. You won't hurt the compressor.
If anything it is the high pressure side, output side, that puts the strain on the compressor. Just like compressing air, it will get hot.
Are you still tripping the low?
What pressures do you have and at what temperature. If you're testing at 90+ you're going to be approaching 40 psi low. Your system, older or not, is designed for these pressures. You won't hurt the compressor.
If anything it is the high pressure side, output side, that puts the strain on the compressor. Just like compressing air, it will get hot.
Are you still tripping the low?







