Is it ok to almost redline it while shifting with my v6 5-speed?

 

Honestly it's not a tuned and balanced motor, I wouldn't

 

Only if you want to shorten its life dramatically, 4000 rpm tops...

 

my 2001 dak with auto trans, 3.9 V6,every thing stock. will shift from 1st gear to 2nd at 5000---5200 rpm by its self. but the amount of advantage driving on the street by going past 4000 rpm doesnt gain much. i would be just as happy shifting at 4000, and gain some low rpm, like from 1000--2000 rpm. my factory paper service manual, i cant find it saying a max rpm, unless iam missing it.

 

same as moe, Mine's right at 4800, 5000 by the time the motor starts to pull down. But I try to lift around 46 and let it do the 1-3 shift (sometimes 1-2, usually 1-3) a little easier. I was told that the V6's, while not fully balanced (would need to be a 120 degree block for that), can still hold it's own that high. If it gets hurt, just put 318 rods & pistons in it. Usually not enough reason to do a 30 over cleanup job [so I'm told] because there's so much metal on the cylinder walls, they don't really oblong that much.

(On the opposite, when we pulled the block out of the camaro last fall, the holes were .045 taller than they were wide. Had them do a .060 cleanup bore, wasn't enough cylinder wall left, cracked and chunked pieces of wall out. Now we have 3/4" of cylinder wall thickness with a Dart race block)

 

You'd be well past peak torque and HP at redline. You'd pull better around 3200.

 

With my sct on my 5.2, wot used to shift at 5,200. I used to drive my truck with the peddle floor lol Was always hard on it and 30,000 miles later was still strong as the day I got it.

 

When I get on my modded 2.5 i shift her at 5800, even though it redlines at 55. That's just me though.


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of course you know to NOT rev the engine at high RPM with NO load. dont you? allso goes for your RC engines.