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2000 Dak restoration/rebuild

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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #61  
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clutch fan was removed today. it was fairly easy. i put a vicegrip on the pulley, and hit the clutch fan bolt with heat, using a propane torch, then put the wrench on it and whacked the wrench with a BFH, and it came loose, then i spun the blades and it came right off.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #62  
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so its been a while since i was on here, but i had the alternator finally tested... its FRIED.... so now im at the assumption that the alternator is the casue of the starting then shutting down.. the battery has been on a charger and is now on a maintaince charger until im ready for it..

im hoping my hydraulic pump didnt spike the alt.. so with that a possibility, im asking everyone if it would be a good idea to run a 2nd battery
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 05:46 PM
  #63  
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ok so today i started putting the exhaust manifolds back on, for the left side done, with no real issues, just had to trim some bolts.. the right side is fighting me, and i have a subsequent post about the issue i ran into.. new pics coming soon..

LINK TO THE OTHER THREAD
 

Last edited by Wes Garrett; Jan 10, 2013 at 05:48 PM. Reason: link addition
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 05:24 PM
  #64  
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so the seats and steering wheel is back in... im thinking of undercoating the floor of the truck, in lieu of re-carpeting the floor of the truck.. it would make sense, i do love the rubber floors, like i had in my econoline.. damn i miss that van, but the rear end blowing up at 78k, i am really starting to hate ford, only fords i like are the diesels prior to 2010, back when they ran the Navistar International diesel motors. ive driven all kinds of trucks, the 3 main diesel motors i like are Cummins, Navistar/International, and CAT, Detroit diesels are nice, but ive noticed that they have too many issues..
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #65  
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so the head came back from the machine shop, its fixed.. the motor is assembled. i just need the intake gaskets. its almost fully wired again. the trans is wired, and the cooler lines are hooked up.. gotta mock up the lower core support. so i can get the radiator situated. then after that all i have to do is the lift kit and body work.. OHH and fix the front end.. the body work is more important. i hope i can get it all done in the next 2-3 weeks.. haha. still gotta save money to take the wife to monster trucks on the 14th.. i think.. haha
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 04:28 PM
  #66  
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well i come bearing good news.. with anyluck i can get the truck to fire for the first time in 4 months. i had done a full re-gasket on the motor.. hope i assembled it right.

I WILL TRY TO POST A VIDEO OF THIS BEAST FIRING UP..
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:58 AM
  #67  
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well heres the video i promised yall.. sounds like a diesel from a distance, or a ram with flowmaster 40 series
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #68  
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Nice project you got going there. Sure wish my 3.9 sounded like that. Sounds great man, keep up the good work and good luck.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by AlexH2
Nice project you got going there. Sure wish my 3.9 sounded like that. Sounds great man, keep up the good work and good luck.
that sound is actually an exhaust leak at the manifold to the pipe.. its missing a bolt... i do however plan on putting on flowmaster 40 series.. i gotta put a new cat on too. so why not a new exhaust. just need a section of pipe with an O2 sensor bung.

i will hopefully have a video of the truck operating under its own power, running and driving, tomorrow. i have some tweaks to do today.. im definatly gonna need transmission fluid. for trans and PS pump.. and maybe 1.5 GAL of coolant.. so another 45 bux in fluids alone..

I DO NOT RECCOMMEND THE FOLLOWING AS A PERMINATE FIX. ONLY USE THIS IN AN LAST RESORT SITUATION. ALSO THIS FIX WILL NOT WORK IN ALL SITUATIONS.. AND PROBABLY SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN USED IN THIS PARTICULAR WAY.. THE BEST APPLICATION FOR THIS IS AS FOLLOWS.

trans line: -
fix: =
--------------============--------------
used as inline repair

MY VERSION OF THIS FIX IS USED BECAUSE THE COOLER WAS CROSSTHREADED AS YOU WILL READ..
I had popped a transmission line leak to the cooler. aswell had cross threaded the bung for the stock trans cooler.. in a pinch, i cut both the lines, and connected them together with a piece of 500psi (1200burst) airline, with 4 hose clamps, 2 on each side. i ran the truck last night, transmission works, needs fluid though, i belive i lost 3-4quarts between the leak and the motor pull..

i would recommend a TOW TRUCK in lieu of this fix, however if you use this fix DO NOT romp/beat on the truck. take it nice and easy to your repair shop of choice...
 
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #70  
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so after much consultation with MagnetHead, i was able to determine the reason for the stalling was caused by the Crankshaft Position Sensor. i am going to replace it this friday. hopefully this fixes it, and i CAN FINALLY START the body work. shes getting closer and closer to being done, i can probably do the body work in a weekend.. and start the lift aswell
 

Last edited by Wes Garrett; Feb 27, 2013 at 08:23 PM.
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