2000 Dak restoration/rebuild
I would say post some pic's if bad and go from there hopfuly all you will see is a small amount I would say if thats the case dont clean now just put the cover back on after painting and use some mmo for the next year in your oil to clean the crap off at a slow pace.
You dont want chunks of goop falling into the crankcase and plugging up the oil intake and cooking the engine.
You dont want chunks of goop falling into the crankcase and plugging up the oil intake and cooking the engine.
dumb *** question.. what is mmo?
When I painted my valve cover after it dried a day or 2 depending on weather to be sure they were dry and hard... I put them in the oven at 325 for 25 or 45 minutes. Just be sure your other half dosent freak out on you as the oven may smell for a few days after this 
It cooks off any soft spots your paint may have and hardens it up good
Keep a good eye on things as they cook
Your covers are not plastic I hope if so dont do it

It cooks off any soft spots your paint may have and hardens it up good
Keep a good eye on things as they cook

Your covers are not plastic I hope if so dont do it
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Dec 8, 2012 at 12:32 PM.
When I painted my valve cover after it dried a day or 2 depending on weather to be sure they were dry and hard... I put them in the oven at 325 for 25 or 45 minutes. Just be sure your other half dosent freak out on you as the oven may smell for a few days after this 
It cooks off any soft spots your paint may have and hardens it up good
Keep a good eye on things as they cook

It cooks off any soft spots your paint may have and hardens it up good
Keep a good eye on things as they cook

By the way I’m assuming you are using high temp engine paint so cooking them for the 25 or 45 minutes is ok to do if using just any paint you may want to skip cooking them as you may have a fire on your hands... Not fun
Be safe always
Be safe always
ya im using the duplicolor engine enamel, and the VHT exhaust paint.. i was thinking of using rustolem or krylon high temp black for the headers, and the valve covers
NEW PICTURES ARE UP ON www.mydakotabuild.com
to view the new pics go to "projects" then click on Motor Work
Synopsis, mortor is in.. chain is off.. and belt driven accessories are installed.
i gotta snafu though.. i cant remember exactly where all the bolts go, and on top of that i think i lost one or two, and the motor paint plugged the threads up.. i dont dare tapping them caue i could f*ck up the threading
then i still have to remove the starter plate, and reinstall it where it goes(i bent it putting the motor and trans back)
put the starter in, attach the flex plate to the torque converter, torque them down, then put the cover plate back on.
i hope i got enough paint off the flex plate. if not i gotta take it all apart again.. go mee
to view the new pics go to "projects" then click on Motor Work
Synopsis, mortor is in.. chain is off.. and belt driven accessories are installed.
i gotta snafu though.. i cant remember exactly where all the bolts go, and on top of that i think i lost one or two, and the motor paint plugged the threads up.. i dont dare tapping them caue i could f*ck up the threading
then i still have to remove the starter plate, and reinstall it where it goes(i bent it putting the motor and trans back)
put the starter in, attach the flex plate to the torque converter, torque them down, then put the cover plate back on.
i hope i got enough paint off the flex plate. if not i gotta take it all apart again.. go mee
Last edited by Wes Garrett; Dec 9, 2012 at 06:15 PM.






