Heater blower not working
#1
Heater blower not working
Completely dead regardless of which position I turn the **** to. I looked in the fuse box under the hood and the one in the passenger compartment, but going by how they were labeled, I couldn't determine which one was for the blower motor, so I didn't know which one to check.
Also, the right-hand blinker is blinking about twice as fast as it is supposed to, at least the indicator inside the cab is (I haven't checked to see what it is doing on the outside of the truck yet).
Any suggestions on what I should check for these two issues?
Also, the right-hand blinker is blinking about twice as fast as it is supposed to, at least the indicator inside the cab is (I haven't checked to see what it is doing on the outside of the truck yet).
Any suggestions on what I should check for these two issues?
#2
For the blinker, check to see that all the bulbs are working. Remember, there are two in the front.
On the HVAC, a VERY common problem is the resistor and it's connector burning up. The resistor is in the passenger compartment, passenger side, by the blower motor. 2 screws hold it in place. Look for "charring" on the connector.
These two fuses are for the blower operation:
The blower motor fuse is Fuse 5, in the Power Distribution Block under the hood, 40 amp, labeled HEVAC.
There is another fuse, #7, for the HEVAC relay. 10 amp, in the junction block, by the drivers door.
These fuses are for the HVAC controls, not likely to be an issue:
A third fuse for the blower motor relay, Fuse D, 10 amp. It's in the fuse/relay block, under the dash, by the drivers footpanel, where the flasher is. It is basically used for "high."
A fourth fuse, for the controls, fuse #5, in the junction block, by the drivers door.
On the HVAC, a VERY common problem is the resistor and it's connector burning up. The resistor is in the passenger compartment, passenger side, by the blower motor. 2 screws hold it in place. Look for "charring" on the connector.
These two fuses are for the blower operation:
The blower motor fuse is Fuse 5, in the Power Distribution Block under the hood, 40 amp, labeled HEVAC.
There is another fuse, #7, for the HEVAC relay. 10 amp, in the junction block, by the drivers door.
These fuses are for the HVAC controls, not likely to be an issue:
A third fuse for the blower motor relay, Fuse D, 10 amp. It's in the fuse/relay block, under the dash, by the drivers footpanel, where the flasher is. It is basically used for "high."
A fourth fuse, for the controls, fuse #5, in the junction block, by the drivers door.
#3
What he said when it comes to the blower. I just replaced the heater core and blower motor in my truck...heater core because it was bad but blower motor because it just blows weak 1-4. Now after researching I think my problem is the blower motor resistor as well and that it is headed towards what happened to you. Also you have a bulb out either in the front or out back, mine is doing the same thing right now and it is because I have a tail light bulb out.
#4
Thanks for the detailed information. The resistor was definitely burned out. I'll replace it as soon as I can:
That is probably what I smelled when I tried to turn on the blower the other day and noticed it wasn't working at all.
I couldn't find any bulbs that were out, but I was by myself so I couldn't check the brake lights. All the blinkers work too, albeit the passenger side blinker is fast, the same as its interior indicator. I forgot to mention that while most of the time the passenger side blinker is too fast, every now and then it blinks at its normal/correct speed.
I did something stupid while I was out there checking the resistor too. There is a circular white plastic disk-shaped plug of some sort in the main plastic shroud, near where the resistor is mounted. I was curious about what it was, so I rotated it to see if it would come out, and in the process I ended up dropping it down into the shroud. The hole it was in is too small for me to reach in there and retrieve it. Any suggestions for how I can get it (I hope I don't have to remove that whole shroud)? What is it for anyway?
That is probably what I smelled when I tried to turn on the blower the other day and noticed it wasn't working at all.
I couldn't find any bulbs that were out, but I was by myself so I couldn't check the brake lights. All the blinkers work too, albeit the passenger side blinker is fast, the same as its interior indicator. I forgot to mention that while most of the time the passenger side blinker is too fast, every now and then it blinks at its normal/correct speed.
I did something stupid while I was out there checking the resistor too. There is a circular white plastic disk-shaped plug of some sort in the main plastic shroud, near where the resistor is mounted. I was curious about what it was, so I rotated it to see if it would come out, and in the process I ended up dropping it down into the shroud. The hole it was in is too small for me to reach in there and retrieve it. Any suggestions for how I can get it (I hope I don't have to remove that whole shroud)? What is it for anyway?
Last edited by MaximRecoil; 12-08-2012 at 03:45 PM.
#5
That is one of the old OEM style blower motor resistors and they have a very high failure rate. The new ones are a lot better quality, you will see the difference when you compare the old part to the new part. It used to be that you could only buy the new redesigned resistor at the Dodge dealer, but now you can get the new resistor at any parts store, it will be the exact same part as what the Dodge dealer sells, only it costs a lot less. The part should cost less than $20.00. It is also a good idea to check the current draw of the blower fan itself. If it is pulling more than about 17 or 18 amps with the fan on its highest speed you may want to replace the blower fan too.
As for the fast blinking turn signals you might have a corroded bulb connector. You can use a test light or volt meter and check for power at the metal terminal inside the bulb connector and check the wire going to the connector for proper voltage. You may also have a bad flasher relay but it may be best to test the bulb connectors first.
I am not sure about the round white connector thing.
Jimmy
As for the fast blinking turn signals you might have a corroded bulb connector. You can use a test light or volt meter and check for power at the metal terminal inside the bulb connector and check the wire going to the connector for proper voltage. You may also have a bad flasher relay but it may be best to test the bulb connectors first.
I am not sure about the round white connector thing.
Jimmy
#6
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#8
Okay, it seems that the burned-out resistor wasn't the problem, but rather, a symptom. I tried a new resistor in there today and the blower still didn't work. Instead it heated the resistor up to the point of melting some of its plastic housing in a matter of seconds. Does this mean that the blower motor itself is seized up? Even if it were seized, how is it able to pull so much current without blowing a fuse?
I got the white plastic disk-shaped plug (that I asked about previously) back in place. I duct-taped a piece of rubber gas hose to a Shop-Vac, snaked it into the hole and moved it around until the suction grabbed the piece, and then I was able to pull it up to the hole and get ahold of it.
I got the white plastic disk-shaped plug (that I asked about previously) back in place. I duct-taped a piece of rubber gas hose to a Shop-Vac, snaked it into the hole and moved it around until the suction grabbed the piece, and then I was able to pull it up to the hole and get ahold of it.
#10
Does it seem like the blower motor itself is the problem? Is there anything else that could create these symptoms (i.e., too much current through the resistor, blower fan doing nothing)?