Yes 00DakDan, I have tried both switches. I have also located the block on the rear side of the access panel, where I see two relays. One of them clicks when I try to lock / unlock the doors but I am not sure what the other one is supposed to do or if it should be part of the same circuit.

 

The other "relay" is your combination flasher.
The driver unlock relay only controls the drivers door, not all 4.

This is from the FSM:

If the entire power lock system functions with the RKE transmitter, but not with one or both of the power lock switches, see Power Lock Switch in the
Diagnosis and Testing section of this group.

 

I'm sorry, how do I get to diagnosis and testing section?

 

Follow this link. You can download the entire FSM:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-download.html

 

Any updates Hank?

 

Hi,
I went there, and downloaded the file, but it wouldn’t open. File format not recognized. I did manage to find most of the manual on another site but with sections missing. I then found a Durango manual from the same year which seems similar. I am working through this.
The problem is still to be solved but I think it could be the power lock motor because from reading the books, I now see that the power lock switch and cylinder door locks do not work but the RKE transmitter does.
I have yet to disconnect one of the power lock motors to find if I am correct or not. If I disconnect the bad one, this should allow the good one to work.

 

That rules out the power lock motor. It's the same motor, RKE or switches.

Gain access to the drivers door switch and find pin 9, it's a red lead. Probe it with a paperclip you should have 12 volts there all the time. Leave it connected to the switch and then, move it to "lock" and you should have 12 volts on the orange with white tracer wire. When in "unlock" you should have 12 volts on the pink with violet trace wire.

 

I have accessed the switch which has two rows of wires. As you will know, one row is for the power windows and the other must be for the power locks. Pin 9 is dead along with all other wires on that side. The wires on the side for the windows are either live or become live when I open and close the windows. I put this explanation in so that you know that there is power to the connector block, just not on the side for the power lock switch.

 

The power windows are on a separate feed.

Pin 9 is fed directly from fuse 13 in the junction block. I know you checked it. Do you have a test light or can you measure voltage on both sides of the fuse?

 

There is 12 volts either side of the fuse when the ignition is on. My thoughts are now to run a new wire from the fuse to the input side of the switch to see if this makes it work or not. I just need this snow to go before I stand out there to remove the panel again.