I noticed while my truck was on jacks today during an oil change my driver's side front wheel is loose and the hub assembly needs to be replaced. I'm just wondering how big of a job is it? I've never done a wheel bearing before but certainly don't want to pay someone $400 or so to do it when I could.

Also, anyone notice an issue with certain brands? I usually just use NAPA parts since that's the closest to me and I've had pretty good luck with their parts before.

I have a Haynes manual but haven't really looked at it yet... Probably should start there...

 

i did both of mine in like 4 hours, your gonna need an axle nut socket(34mm) and a GOOD 14mm socket (preferably impact) and a breaker bar. its fairly easy. while your in there check your cv axles, replace if necessary

 

It's not that difficult a job. If you can do the brakes, you can do a hub. The only thing is that you must torque it exactly to specs. Too tight or loose and you'll destroy a hub quick.

There is a video out on Youtube showing how.

From the FSM: HUB / BEARING REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the halfshaft nut.
(4) Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped.
(5) Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
(6) Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts from the steering knuckle.
(7) Slid the hub/bearing out of the steering knuckle and off the halfshaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hub/bearing into the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts to 166 N·m (123 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the brake rotor and caliper.
(3) Install the ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped.
(4) Install the halfshaft nut and tighten to 235 N·m (173 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(6) Remove the support and lower vehicle.

 

you may need a big ole hammer to get the hub off the spindle, rust and debris may keep her in tight. other than that, its pretty easy. your CV boot may get in the way a bit while removing the hub bolts, but you can work around that. also cover the drive splines with a rag while the hub is off to prevent damage. apply a grease to the splines when reinstalling the new hub. thats all i got for ya.

 

Big breaker bar and heat.

Not difficult at all. Your biggest issue will be drying to get the hub off after you got the bolts out. It'll be stuck on there good so have a BFH ready.

My axle nut was 32 mm

 

CV shafts were done about 20k miles ago, should be good. I have no problem doing brakes, just never done a hub before, so I thought I would check...

I need new rotors and pads as well (I've never changed them and I've owned the truck for 60k miles and don't know when they were done before I bought it), so I should probably just do both hubs, rotors, and pads at once and be done with it...

 

Its easy. The longest part for me was beating the rusted hub off. As far as what hub its really up to you and what you want to pay. I bought a 60.00 ebay hub and 20-30,000 miles and a crap ton of offroading later it was still just as tight as day 1

 

Timken is good for hubs. I have to change my left one, again, because the damn shop used a crap brand. I'll be doing it myself this time. Timken style.

 

I bought a cheap hub back in may and I think its bad already so don't cheap out too much but no need to buy top of the line IMO.

 

If you have just just replaced your C/V 's make sure to protect the threaded shaft. Try leaving the nut on a few threads.