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Dakota brakes suck!

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  #21  
Old 04-16-2013, 12:03 PM
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RWAL is a possibility. Anything that can pass fluid can cause problems, such as the dump valve failing.
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:18 PM
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I say flush all your old DOT 3 out of the system this way if there is air you will get it and new Dot 3 will flush any contaminants out also.

You may have put something back together wrong also
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:05 PM
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I've put probably 3 quarts of new dot 3 threw already. How do I test the RWAL?
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:34 PM
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You really can't test it. You need a DRB tool to test and activate the system. Dealer.
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:27 PM
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This is what I don't understand?

On my truck, I can stop on a dime. Nothing is wrong. But I can bottom out the master cylinder with 1 foot, it stops at the floor.

I think nothing is wrong with the OP's truck, he's just wasting money.
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:26 PM
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I can stop on a dime too but my pedal is still well off the floor.

Some vehicles have different pedal heights. So it is somewhat subjective as to what's acceptable but the pedal should not hit the floor.

He might start by capping the outlets on the master cylinder. That would eliminate the rest of the system.
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 00DakDan
I can stop on a dime too but my pedal is still well off the floor.

Some vehicles have different pedal heights. So it is somewhat subjective as to what's acceptable but the pedal should not hit the floor.

He might start by capping the outlets on the master cylinder. That would eliminate the rest of the system.
I don't know if my MC has ever been replaced. But it's possible I suppose that it's a smaller bore/swept volume than was designed for.

I know my front pads are about 75% worn so that's a factor as well. Rear brakes were just replaced.
 
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:18 PM
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I can't stop on a dime but that's because my front brakes have at least 65k miles on them I've never replaced them and I don't know when the previous owner did, they definitely weren't brand new when I bought the truck. Pads still have meat on them too.

If there is any air in the system when the pedal is depressed you are just going to waste most of your energy compressing the air in the lines. Like someone else said, you can't compress a liquid, but air is very compressible. So if there is air in there your brakes are going to suck. You haven't noticed any leaks at all? If there is a small leak you will still have brakes but they're going to get worse.
 
  #29  
Old 04-16-2013, 09:26 PM
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Have you checked your brake lines for a leak? You tell a leak easily, there is DOT3 fluid drips onto the the left part of the frame and sometimes the gas tank.
 
  #30  
Old 04-16-2013, 09:52 PM
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My Accord (05) has a real sensitive brake pedal, you just about rest you foot on it and it responds.

My Dakota is what I would call average or normal, A little play till the grab, and stops on a dime well before the floor

My Camaro (89) has a lot of free play, and stops on a dime very close to the floor, you drive it over the weekend and get in the Honda, first stop you just about throw your self into the windshield

I know this probably sounds stupid, and don't take this the wrong way, not saying you don't know how or are a dummy. but do you know how to properly bleed them, as in either using a vac pump or having someone pump up the system, hold the pedal down, you crack open the bleeder, then close it, then have your buddy release the pedal, then repeat
 


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