Ok here's the problem......Well first things first...I have a 98 EXT cab 4WD with a 3" body lift & a leveling kit rolling on 33's love the look love the stance..@ least for now...But anyways to the problem...I've pretty much replaced everything up front...shocks, tierods, ball joints, hubs, idler arm...I think you get the idea....But for some reason I still have toe-in on the passenger wheel & the driver side wheel is perfect!!...Oh & the truck has just been aligned ...This is driving me crazy!!....& Not mention a lot of money on tires ....Can anyone help with this?....MUCH APPRECIATED!!!...

 

If it's been aligned, there should not be any toe-in other than 1/16" per side. Have you taken it to a different shop? Have you tried to crank out on the tie rod just to try and fix it yourself?

 

Well if its noticeable to the naked eye then the so called "alignment shop" Didnt do their job. Go to one where they will give you a computer readout of the measurements.

 

Yeah, crank the tie rod some.

 

I have taken it to three different places and get same results .....The last place I took it to was a buddy that just took over ownership of a tire & front end shop & has been a mechanic for as long as I've known him & then some.....And told me that it was as far as it could go.....I just don't understand how the driver side is spot on but not the passenger?....& thank you for the response!...

 

Not to imply you're an idiot or anything, but are you sure you're talking about toe-in and not camber?

 

....Yes you are correct I am an idiot on this one Tom ...Yes negative camber is the problem not toe-in...duh... & sorry all for the f#*k up..

 

yea, Camber is a bit of a pain, in general. Even on the camaro when we rebuilt the whole front suspension, we had hell getting the camber/caster combination to hang together (0 camber and 7 degrees caster is not easy!). You can imagine how it is with body panels and what not. But you, esp having the body lift, should be able to adjust it pretty easily. We used a 4 foot prybar and a BFH.

 

Problem is, the slots in the upper control arm mounts are only so long. When you crank the t-bars, the upper control arms become more angled and effectively shorter, giving you more negative camber (actually a design feature to minimize tire side scrub when the suspension moves). There may or may not be enough slot to move the control arm far enough to correct it. And with manufacturing tolerances, it may not be exactly the same from one side to the other, either.

 

Good answer.