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slave cylinder issue

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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 04:16 PM
  #11  
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Oh ok. Well workin on it now. At 1st fluid was coming out when we opened valve (Had pedal down) then later fluid just stopped coming out. Were not supposed to also keep clutch down when we refill Res. Right? I mean u wouldnt do that normally when u put some in and I kinda assume it would shoot out the Res. Also I use dot 3 fluid right?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #12  
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I don't see what the difference would be doing it pedal down or pedal up re filling it as long as the bleeder screw is tight. and yes use dot 3 brake fluid. it should say right on the res cap. I used dot 3 brake fluid that cost an arm and a leg, but I only put top of the line on or in my vehicles, and I always use mid to hi octane gas.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 03:44 PM
  #13  
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i guess ur supposed to hold pedal down and then open bleeder, close it and pump. i never did get any pressure in the pedal. i really hope the issue lies in my retarded bleeding skills and not something tranny related. im gonna get the truck towed to a shop down the street and c if they can get it goin when i have money again..possibly next week. once thats done i can attack my plenum gasket issue. crossing fingers that my engine doesnt blow up before i can get that fixed. im debating trying to do it myself as PA shops charge something like 8 hrs at 100ish an hour to do it. but i also dont want to kill myself with frustration. im hoping i find someone around my area that can give me a hand for less than a shop!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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oh bleeding yeah you have to keep the pedal down if the bleeder screw is open, I filled my res both ways. I finally got pressure after about 45 mins of bleeding. now I need a throw out bearing. but i'm just going with a whole clutch kit.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 12:22 AM
  #15  
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i got pretty close to that long i think..and tried on at least half a dozen separate occasions. maybe i only went like 30 min each time.im hoping i dont need to go as far as a whole clutch kit because my clutch is only about a year old. well c! lemme know how it goes for you
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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my throw out bearing broke in half so i'm doing the whole clutch kit while I have it tore apart. it's an 80 dollar difference in price however.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 03:36 PM
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The one piece assembly would have avoided all the hassles of assembly and Bleeding quick and easy Bing Bang Boom! done

Just saying
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 02:14 PM
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Yeah I didn't know they had a one piece assembly. They just had the individual parts at advanced auto. It seemed straight forward enough. Guess not
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by eboula24
Yeah I didn't know they had a one piece assembly. They just had the individual parts at advanced auto. It seemed straight forward enough. Guess not
Make sure the master cylinder is ok. If ur not getting any fluid at the bleeder, my bet is u got a bad master. It is possible to get bad brand new master cylinders out of the box.. I remember when I had to do the brake master cylinder on my '93 and I went through 4 brand new masters, of different brands, to have all 4 not work (with different problems..) until I settled on a junkyard master that hasn't failed in the 3 yrs I have had it, and has more pedal than my old master, or any of the brand new ones for that matter

And from what I gathered, u are bleeding it correctly. Pump and then hold, open bleeder, close bleeder, release, repeat.
 

Last edited by RockGuardedDak; Jul 9, 2013 at 02:37 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by eboula24
Yeah I didn't know they had a one piece assembly. They just had the individual parts at advanced auto. It seemed straight forward enough. Guess not
The factory assembly is one piece, if you can still get it from Dodge. No bleeding, just snaps together.

Here's another one piece for you:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/clutch-mast...FYKd4AodDjQALw
 
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