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not to sound like a dick, but do you see anything about lowering the differential or rack? All that kit does is replace the torsion bar keys and shocks so that it's not such a harse ride with the bars cranked up. It doesn't do anything about the steep tie-rod or CV shaft angles.
Could I do. Add a leaf , cranked t bars and body lift
you'll get about 1-1.5" out of the bars, maybe 2" if you can handle the ride and not tear up your CV shafts. Then a 3" body lift. Some body lifts come with steering shaft extensions and some don't, as I recall seeing on the forum. You'll rub the frame rails pretty good until you get different wheels with a different offset to move the tires out.
So add a leaf , cranked t bars, body lift and drop diff wud I still need more offset wheels to prevent rubbing
And would just a 3 inch body lift look good
that should complete the suite. Yes you'll still need offset wheels to prevent rubbing- it gets bad at 33" and anything bigger gets worse.
When you raise the front ride height, you are increasing the angle of the control arms, actually bringing the spindles closer to the framerail in the horizontal component, even though they are further in the vertical and diagonal components.
well the diff bracket alone is 250, body lift I would appropriate about 450-500 between cost, parts runs, and helper pay/beer money, torsion bars can be free unless you buy new keys but you'll need an alignment either way since your camber and tow will be way off, so allow at least 75 to that, and blocks/shackles/leaf/whatever in the back can be anywhere from 50 to 200 depending on what you want to do.