I pulled the glove box and removed those screws, but I can't remove the CTM as the bracket it rests in is in the way and can't fit through the opening. I have it freed up enough where the bracket and CTM will move around but that's it. I will take another look, maybe snap a few photos to show you what I mean if I get a chance.

My truck has been a pain at times as someone got back behind the dash at some point and messed with the blower box not knowing what they were doing and did a hack job on the lid. I think they replaced the heater core or at least tried to and didn't put it back in correctly so the heat sucked when I bought it. They put the core in so it was pressed up against the wall of the box and all the air just blew past it rather than through it. I have since rolled the dash down and repositioned the heater core correctly. I would only get about 60 degree air in the winter prior to this, made things very uncomfortable when it was around 0!

I fixed all of that and repaired the lid and box, but I wonder if in the process they didn't mess up something with the wiring. I can't figure out why my entire truck would just randomly go dark, it doesn't happen very often although I don't do a lot of night driving. It will go dark and then within seconds come back on. I got the CTM for $30 so I thought it was worth the effort to see what would happen, I didn't realize the headlights and dash lights weren't run through it in my model? So it is only for the interior lighting in my truck? I may pull the dash bezel and check out the headlight/dimmer switch then, maybe that is shorting. I need to trace my ground from the cruise switches out to the PCM and see why I don't have good continuity there either. Wonder if there is a ground that is corroded or not reconnected properly. I did test all the connections from the cruise servo to the PCM and had good continuity other than the ground. It had good continuity on the ground between it and the sensor ground for all of the TB sensors. I need to spend a bit more time with the FSM and the P1595 diagnostic flow chart, hard to do a few of those tests without a DRB. It should be related to that sensor ground circuit to the PCM though, I have been good on all of the other tests via the flowchart that I can complete with a multimeter. When I was checking my OBD II port my ground circuit had about 30 ohms of resistance which seemed a bit high to me, so I am thinking it is possible there is a poor connection or corrosion somewhere and I wonder if that is part of what is causing all of my lights to go out temporarily. Perhaps wherever this is occurring it is shorting out across that point and not providing a positive 12V signal to all of the components?

I really appreciate the info 00DakDan, don't want to hijack this thread but hopefully I can help flush out my issue and possibly help out the original poster with his cruise issues.

 

Verify the grounds for the lights. There should be a jumper from the dash itself to the body of the truck. It may have been damaged/left off when they did some work behind the dash.

I'll move this into a new thread.