2nd Gen Dakota Tech 1997 - 2004 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 2nd Gen Dakota.
View Poll Results: What would yo do?
Reman long block - $2300
1
20.00%
2 heads and timing - $1200
2
40.00%
Just replace the bad head - $420
2
40.00%
Replace the bad head and work towards a Hemi swap in the future
0
0%
Voters: 5. You may not vote on this poll

What would you do? New motor?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 21, 2014 | 11:47 AM
  #21  
98DAKAZ's Avatar
98DAKAZ
Champion
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,895
Likes: 35
From: Gilbert, Arizona
Default

Get new Valve Lifters

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...1/applications


 
Reply
Old May 21, 2014 | 12:25 PM
  #22  
TheNewbie's Avatar
TheNewbie
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Default

Originally Posted by Tom A
If the valve is hanging open that much, there's a good chance it contacted the piston and did a bunch more damage. The mechanic with the bore scope would have been able to see this, but that doesn't mean the seller would tell you about it.
This isn't an interference engine is it?

I'll either borrow a bore scope from a mechanic buddy of mine or just pop the head off later next week.
 
Reply
Old May 21, 2014 | 12:39 PM
  #23  
Tom A's Avatar
Tom A
Section Moderator
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 9
From: Concord, CA
Default

Originally Posted by TheNewbie
This isn't an interference engine is it?

I'll either borrow a bore scope from a mechanic buddy of mine or just pop the head off later next week.
Honestly, I don't know. But I would be prepared for additional damage, just because that's the way it always seems to work out, especially when you buy something already broken and the seller says it "probably just needs" blah, blah, blah...
 
Reply
Old May 21, 2014 | 12:51 PM
  #24  
00DakDan's Avatar
00DakDan
Section Moderator
15 Year Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,858
Likes: 47
From: MA
Default

It is interference.

Just pull the head. It has to come off anyways.
 
Reply
Old May 21, 2014 | 01:18 PM
  #25  
Tom A's Avatar
Tom A
Section Moderator
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 9
From: Concord, CA
Default

Originally Posted by 00DakDan

Just pull the head. It has to come off anyways.
This.
 
Reply
Old May 25, 2014 | 02:45 PM
  #26  
Brian in Tucson's Avatar
Brian in Tucson
All Star
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
From: Eastside Tucson AZ
Default

None of the poll answers. I didn't vote.

Depends on your financial condition, how many miles are on the engine, and whether you plan to keep the truck long term.

If it's high mileage, you have the cash, and you plan on keeping the engine for a bunch more miles (and the truck is otherwise in good shape) I'd probably get the reman'd engine.

If it's fairly low mi., you're cheap or broke, and you're planning on selling within the next year, just get a valve job on that head and a new rocker arm and lifter.
 
Reply
Old May 27, 2014 | 11:23 AM
  #27  
TheNewbie's Avatar
TheNewbie
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Default

Well we came back from a weekend trip to find that a water line in the attic had spring a leak and caved in the ceiling so looks like the truck will just have to wait for a little bit longer...
 
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:20 PM
  #28  
TheNewbie's Avatar
TheNewbie
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Default

I finally have time to work on the truck again! I've pulled everything from the intake up and all of the stuff on the front of the motor. I'm about ready to pop the head off and do a visual inspection.

Do you guys have any tips for me before removing the head? Any one way better than another to keep my timing if I'm going to throw a new head on?
 
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:30 PM
  #29  
magnethead's Avatar
magnethead
Legend
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 184
From: Fort Worth, TX
Default

IMO, I would replace both heads. But that's just me. If you feel so inclined, get a piston ring and bearing set, and re-ring them & change the rod bearings. It's more time than money to do so. If the pistons are in good shape, you replace both heads and the bottom end bearings, that pretty much leaves the bores as the only unserviced item. And you can check those with the pistons out. Unless they are way out of range enough to yield piston slap, I would call it good there. You might even be able to order a bare head and swap the cams, springs, valves, and rockers over.
 
Reply
Old Jul 8, 2014 | 02:03 PM
  #30  
TheNewbie's Avatar
TheNewbie
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Default

Originally Posted by magnethead
IMO, I would replace both heads. But that's just me. If you feel so inclined, get a piston ring and bearing set, and re-ring them & change the rod bearings. It's more time than money to do so. If the pistons are in good shape, you replace both heads and the bottom end bearings, that pretty much leaves the bores as the only unserviced item. And you can check those with the pistons out. Unless they are way out of range enough to yield piston slap, I would call it good there. You might even be able to order a bare head and swap the cams, springs, valves, and rockers over.
It put a pretty good gouge in one of the cam lobes and chewed up one of the rockers so I'll probably just get a head (or possibly heads) that are already loaded. I could probably smooth out the cam lobe, but it seems kind of risky to me...

What about the timing set? Kits range from $186 to $632 plus shipping. What parts wear out on these and what should I not worry about?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:17 PM.