Double Transmission Fluid Leak?
#1
Double Transmission Fluid Leak?
Today I noticed some transmission fluid leaking from my dakota. its in the front and back. I cant tell where the front is because theres not enough room under my truck (I dont own a floor jack to get it higher). also in the back the bell housing is soaked with it and is barely dripping. could this just be a seal leak or is it something more?
#2
Today I noticed some transmission fluid leaking from my dakota. its in the front and back. I cant tell where the front is because theres not enough room under my truck (I dont own a floor jack to get it higher). also in the back the bell housing is soaked with it and is barely dripping. could this just be a seal leak or is it something more?
If it is the seal, check all the bolts to make sure none are loose and torque then slightly.
#4
Welcome to the forum Carkeese!
Just to clarify, the picture you posted is not the "bell housing." You show the differential or pumpkin. The bell housing is where the flywheel is on the engine, it's shaped like a bell when off the truck.
There is no gasket on the differential, just RTV. Over time it can start to leak. Just make sure the oil level is up to the fill plug. If it hasn't been changed in a while it's not a difficult job just messy.
There is a seal on the front where the drive shaft is. It can start to leak Can you tell if it's the front or back?
You have the 9.25" rear.
Just to clarify, the picture you posted is not the "bell housing." You show the differential or pumpkin. The bell housing is where the flywheel is on the engine, it's shaped like a bell when off the truck.
There is no gasket on the differential, just RTV. Over time it can start to leak. Just make sure the oil level is up to the fill plug. If it hasn't been changed in a while it's not a difficult job just messy.
There is a seal on the front where the drive shaft is. It can start to leak Can you tell if it's the front or back?
You have the 9.25" rear.
#5
I have a leak in two spots on my transmission; being its big money to pull it and replace the seals; i took flex seal after cleaning the transmission and put nice thick spray along the seam where it was leaking.. and the leak has stopped for the most part.. i do have a spot i missed if the truck is itting on an incline it will leak a small little slow drip.. not as bad as it was..
Just something to think about if anyone like me needs to buy some time to get to the shop or get the money together to fix a leak on transmission*.
Just something to think about if anyone like me needs to buy some time to get to the shop or get the money together to fix a leak on transmission*.
#6
Welcome to the forum Carkeese!
Just to clarify, the picture you posted is not the "bell housing." You show the differential or pumpkin. The bell housing is where the flywheel is on the engine, it's shaped like a bell when off the truck.
There is no gasket on the differential, just RTV. Over time it can start to leak. Just make sure the oil level is up to the fill plug. If it hasn't been changed in a while it's not a difficult job just messy.
There is a seal on the front where the drive shaft is. It can start to leak Can you tell if it's the front or back?
You have the 9.25" rear.
Just to clarify, the picture you posted is not the "bell housing." You show the differential or pumpkin. The bell housing is where the flywheel is on the engine, it's shaped like a bell when off the truck.
There is no gasket on the differential, just RTV. Over time it can start to leak. Just make sure the oil level is up to the fill plug. If it hasn't been changed in a while it's not a difficult job just messy.
There is a seal on the front where the drive shaft is. It can start to leak Can you tell if it's the front or back?
You have the 9.25" rear.
the front is strait up RTV like you were talking about.
#7
Jon,
You can buy a gasket for the rear but it doesn't come with one. It's just RTV from the factory. I use RTV when changing the fluid - item #6 below.
Here's the procedure from the 2000 FSM:
LUBRICANT CHANGE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the differential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil, light engine oil, or lint free cloth. Do not use water, steam, kerosene, or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the original sealant from the housing and cover surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Sealant, or equivalent, to the housing cover.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes after applying the sealant.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag. Tighten the cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) For Trac–lok differentials, a quantity of Mopar Trac–lok lubricant (friction modifier),or
equivalent, must be added after repair service or a lubricant change. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications section of this group for the quantity necessary.
(9) Fill differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant, or equivalent, to bottom of the fill plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications section of this group for the quantity necessary.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in lubricant foaming and overheating.
(10) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
(11) Trac–lok differential equipped vehicles should be road tested by making 10 to 12 slow figure eight turns. This maneuver will pump the lubricant through the clutch discs to eliminate a possible chatter noise complaint.
You can buy a gasket for the rear but it doesn't come with one. It's just RTV from the factory. I use RTV when changing the fluid - item #6 below.
Here's the procedure from the 2000 FSM:
LUBRICANT CHANGE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the differential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil, light engine oil, or lint free cloth. Do not use water, steam, kerosene, or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the original sealant from the housing and cover surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Sealant, or equivalent, to the housing cover.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes after applying the sealant.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag. Tighten the cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) For Trac–lok differentials, a quantity of Mopar Trac–lok lubricant (friction modifier),or
equivalent, must be added after repair service or a lubricant change. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications section of this group for the quantity necessary.
(9) Fill differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant, or equivalent, to bottom of the fill plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications section of this group for the quantity necessary.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in lubricant foaming and overheating.
(10) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
(11) Trac–lok differential equipped vehicles should be road tested by making 10 to 12 slow figure eight turns. This maneuver will pump the lubricant through the clutch discs to eliminate a possible chatter noise complaint.