I would like to know how hard it is to put new leaf springs on a Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9L V6 2000, has anyone done this, and if so what would be the difficulty level on a scale of 1 to 10? This is my first try at this kind of thing, actually I am putting new shocks and springs.

 

First, why do you need new leaf springs? Second, not hard at all. Your haynes manual will show you how to do it. Jack the truck up, remove the wheels, support the axle, unbolt the old ones, install the new ones.

 

I suggest getting a friend that understands this kind of stuff to help you out and not do it alone as you seem to be very uneducated on this stuff.

It can be dangerous jacking a car up so get help from someone that understands what you want done and go for it.

Read read read and watch as many videos as you can before going for it plan it out understand what you are doing before you do it.

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#t...+jack+up+a+car

Watch the videos learn we were all lost the first time we worked on our autos always ask questions any auto parts shop can give you advise on many of these things just beware they may be wrong always check what people tell you double check any answers given you.

 

Up here in the north country with salt rust, I just replace my springs on a 2000 2wd and I would give it a scale of 4-7 depending if you have a lift available. The difficulty depends on what type of springs you are going to replace the old set with. Are you purchasing New springs or Junk yard take off's? I opted for used springs and the yard just cut off the weld studs from the frame, but this would have doubled or trippled the time to get the whole spring assembly off my vehicle without a lift and the gas tank is in the way to access the front bracket on the drivers side. Of course the yard did not check the springs closely and this set also had a broken eyelet on one spring. They found another set from a partner yard and this set was only the springs with no brackets (which is what I really wanted anyway). On the first set of springs I tried to remove the bolts from the schackles, but they were not moving due to years of rust between the bolt and bushings. Glad I got a set of springs without the brakets. Purchase new bolts and U-bolts for the springs, you could use the old u-bolts, but the schakle bolts will need to be cut off or use a torch. We bent the schackle bracket to pry out the spring since the bolts would not drive through due to rust. One of the mechanics at work said he had a reamer, but turned out to be a wire brush type for wheel clyinders. I should have used a 9/16 drill to clean out the spring bushings, the bolts were really hard to drive through the bracket and bushings. Also took 2 people to install the springs, slide the bolt into rear schakle frist then needed pry bar to force front of spring into schackle and line up bolt holes. Had to pound the bolts into bushings, then air gun helped draw bolt the rest of the way. Frist spring took about 1 hour, second took @30 min. using a lift. Trail and error on first spring helped to make second go easier. Old U-bolts only took a little heat on the nuts and the threads looked good after removing the nuts (could use again). Find a local spring shop and get the correct length bolts for the spring bushings 4.5 inch. The u-bolts they need to measure the inside dia. Dodge calls out a few different size u-bolts depending on vehicle Vin Number. The length was @7 in long.

 

Not too hard at all as long as you don't have to fight old rusty bolts. The leaf springs have a bolt on each end and 4 bolts at the axle. Make sure you let the axle drop down to take the tension off of the spring before undoing the bolts, there is a lot of tension there and you don't want to get smacked in the head. You still want the axle to be supported though.

The shocks are just a couple of bolts.

Spray everything down with PB Blaster every day for a few days before hand and it will make much easier work of any rusty bolts.

When installing the new springs just put a bolt into one end, then you can use a floor jack to raise the other end and hold it in place if you're doing this by yourself. And make sure to get the alignment pin lined up under the spring perch on the axle. That's about all there is to it.

 

OK, I really don't think I need new leaf springs, I will just opt for the new shocks, so THENEWBIE, What do you mean when you said. "put a bolt on one end..." I have jacks stands that I was going to use to hold up both side of the truck, and do one at a time.

 

If your shocks are gas adjust beware removing or installing new ones as they are under pressure you need a floor jack under the shock to compress them up into the mount if new they usually have a string around them holding the shock together if you cut it before you get the bolts on it will spring open on you.

MONOMAX SHOCKS-- INSTALLED---BEWARE--HIGH PRESSURE - YouTube

 

I guess it wouldn't matter if you aren't doing the springs anyway, but each end of the spring is held up by a single bolt. That's all I was talking about. If you loosely bolt up one side then it will take the weight for that side so you can just lift the other side to align it. I usually like to secure the frame side of the spring first and do the shackle side last.

My question to you would be why you want new springs though... Is your ride height sagging lower than it should? If so you may need new springs, but if not a good set of shocks should solve any ride quality problems. If you haul a lot of weight (like running around all summer with a 4 wheeler in the bed of the truck year after year) it's not uncommon for springs to sag a bit. And if you have a block lift under the axle that can add to the problem. But under normal day to day use the springs will usually last longer than the truck itself. I'd start with the shocks and see if that doesn't help.

If the ride is getting bouncy that's probably your shocks getting sloppy. Stand on the rear bumper and jump up and down. How many times does the truck bounce up and down? If it stops immediately your shock are too stiff. If it keeps bouncing several times your shocks are probably too soft and not doing their job.

 

THENEWBIE, I think they are not doing there job, it bounces way to much, and is sagging, the shocks are still the ones it had on when it got drove out of the car lot. so I just want to change them to make sure its a better ride. But really don't know which shocks to get, I'm still looking around and for suggestions.