Which water pump do I need?
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 116
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From: Maine
I still say get the OEM Mopar inlet tube. I tried making the one that came with my water pump work but it still pulled the tube too far over toward the engine and that caused the o-ring to not seal completely which resulted in a big leak and a huge mess. If your buddy can fab up something that works but does not cause a leak then I guess it is ok. I think I paid $32.00 for my tube with a "discount" at the dealer but it fit perfectly and worked fine right out of the box so it was worth it to me.
By comparison, the dealership price is $41.95 for the inlet tube and $98.35 for the water pump, $140.30 total, not including shipping and/or tax (if bought locally).
My local parts store prices are about $50 for the water pump and about $15 for the inlet tube (aftermarket in both cases, of course).
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 116
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From: Maine
I just finished installing the water pump; no issues with either the water pump or the inlet tube. I did notice another issue though. My heater controls aren't working right, i.e., it doesn't always switch from e.g., defrost to the floor or whatever when you turn the ****. Eventually it decided to switch to defrost, where I intend to leave it, because that's the most important setting.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,858
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From: MA
It sounds like a vacuum issue.
The doors default to defrost when there is no vacuum - for safety. It uses vacuum to shift the doors to the other positions.
Check the vacuum check valve, you'll find it in the vacuum line near the brake booster.
The control head can fail, the part in the dash too. It's really just a valve.
The doors default to defrost when there is no vacuum - for safety. It uses vacuum to shift the doors to the other positions.
Check the vacuum check valve, you'll find it in the vacuum line near the brake booster.
The control head can fail, the part in the dash too. It's really just a valve.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Concord, CA
I would choose a quality remanufactured clutch over a cheap Chinese new one any day. The amount of material removed from the pressure plate is miniscule and will not cause warping. I've installed literally hundreds of remanufactured clutches (mostly in heavy-duty trucks) and can't remember ever having an issue.
Clutch chatter, in my experience, is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing/bushing or damage from overheating (excessive slippage).
Clutch chatter, in my experience, is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing/bushing or damage from overheating (excessive slippage).
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 116
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From: Maine
If the clutch chatter in my truck were caused by a bad pilot bearing/bushing or damage from overheating, would it go away when the drivetrain is warmed up? In my case, the chatter isn't just reduced when the drivetrain warms up, but rather, it disappears entirely, making the clutch engagement perfectly smooth, like on a brand new truck.
Last edited by MaximRecoil; Nov 9, 2014 at 05:51 PM.
Champion
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
I cant remember but I think my chatter quieted down after it warmed up also but chatter would still pop up at times depending on how hard I accelerated from a stop.
As I said popped in an all new clutch not rebuilt and all problems vanished.
I would never get a rebuilt clutch why chance it at the cost of having it redone at a later time its not worth it. Usually the shop will never admit its their rebuilt clutch job that's the problem and not try and fix it so you are stuck with the chatter.
As I said popped in an all new clutch not rebuilt and all problems vanished.
I would never get a rebuilt clutch why chance it at the cost of having it redone at a later time its not worth it. Usually the shop will never admit its their rebuilt clutch job that's the problem and not try and fix it so you are stuck with the chatter.