2001 Dakota, 3.9L V6, 5-speed manual, 4WD, no A/C.

On RockAuto, they have ones "with threaded heater port" and ones "without threaded heater port". How do I know which one to get?

Also, my clutch has major chatter when I take off in first gear. However, once the truck warms up (not just the engine, but rather, warms up from driving 10 or 15 miles), the clutch engagement is then perfectly smooth like it should be, and stays that way until the truck has sat long enough to cool down completely. Any idea what's going on with it?

 

On the clutch I would say its time for a new clutch chatter on takeoff is a solid yes its clutch time. On the water pump I would get it local to be sure you get the correct one and make it easy to return if wrong.

 

Why does the clutch "fix itself" when the drivetrain is warmed up? I've never heard of that happening, and neither has my mechanic.

And someone must know the difference between "with a threaded heater port" and "without a threaded heater port".

 

The threaded and no threaded heater port is for the inlet tube on the left side of the pump. Some engines have a longer heater hose that goes on the end of a short pipe fitting that threads into the body of the pump. I have never seen one with a threaded port. My 3.9 has a metal tube on the side of the pump. It is maybe 10 inches long and just inserts into a non threaded hole on the pump and has a sealing o-ring with a flange on the tube to bolt it back to the engine bracket that holds the water pump and alternator and idler pulley.

I have an 01 3.9 too. It has a non threaded inlet tube. When I replaced my water pump it came with a new inlet tube and o-ring but the flange was not machined in the right location and would not bolt to the support bracket correctly. I had to get a new tube from the dealer that did fit correctly. It is impossible to remove the tube from the old pump. It helps a lot to avoid leaks if you smear water pump sealant above the o-ring on the tube and then around the tube hole on the pump itself once you get it positioned right and bolted down. I got my new water pump at Autozone. It only cost about $60.00, has a lifetime warranty and is made in the USA too. It has been on my truck almost 4 years now with no trouble at all from it.

I can not tell you much about the clutch chatter. I have a 5 speed too and my first gear will chatter and jerk a bit if I don't engage it just right. It does not do it very often though. When it does it happen it is most often when the truck is cold. Maybe yours is normal but if it is real bad a transmission guy might have better info or know more about it.

Jimmy

 

When was the clutch replaced last?

On it fixing its self I'm guessing as everything heats up warm parts expand giving you a better fit thus no more slip.

I'm still going to say you need a new clutch anytime you have clutch chatter that's a bad sign the clutch has a problem.

At any shop ask for all new parts DEMAND new parts as some rat shops will try to cheat you with rebuilt clutch's and they SUCK big time and always give you clutch chatter.

I would say 01SilverCC may have a rebuilt clutch or his clutch is going out.

Anytime you feel clutch hop or chatter your clutch has a problem period.

 

Thanks. Mine also has a non-threaded heater port then. The tube from the dealership is $40 someodd dollars (even the counterman at the dealership I called was shocked at the price). It is annoying that they didn't build them out of copper or stainless steel. Making plumbing out of plain steel is moronic. An aftermarket one made by Dorman is only ~$9, and if the only problem with it is that the bracket doesn't line up, I'm sure that I or my mechanic friend can make an adapter of some sort.

My clutch chatters violently when engaging in first gear, every time. The only way to avoid it is to heavily ride the clutch, which I don't want to do. When the drivetrain is warm, there isn't a hint of chatter, ever; you'd think it was a brand new clutch.

I have no idea. The clutch has been like this since I got the truck in January 2011. Fortunately I don't drive it much. I've only put about 4,000 miles on it since I got it.

 

I still say get the OEM Mopar inlet tube. I tried making the one that came with my water pump work but it still pulled the tube too far over toward the engine and that caused the o-ring to not seal completely which resulted in a big leak and a huge mess. If your buddy can fab up something that works but does not cause a leak then I guess it is ok. I think I paid $32.00 for my tube with a "discount" at the dealer but it fit perfectly and worked fine right out of the box so it was worth it to me.

As for my clutch I do not believe it is a rebuilt. I have owned my truck since it had 41,000 miles on it and I doubt it had clutch problems before I bought it. I am at about 172,800 miles on my truck now and my clutch is fine. Truck pulls hard, has no problem maintaining 55 to 60 MPH going uphill with the AC blasting and has no other slipping clutch symptoms. Every now and then, not even once a month it will chatter and jerk a little but only when the truck is cold and it only does that for just a few feet. I can stop and then take off again in first gear and it drives just fine. If yours is worse and more frequent it might be time to have a good transmission shop check it out. And go with all new Mopar clutch parts. I am no expert but have heard many times aftermarket clutch kits suck. I guess anything can happen but I sure hope I never need a new clutch.

Jimmy

 

If trans or engine oil got on the clutch plate this may be the problem but chatter or hop means a warped clutch or a warn clutch plate. I had a shop put in a new clutch one time and always suffered chatter or hop on takeoff. I put up with that crap for a few years till I had a different shop replace the clutch they said that the first shop probably installed a rebuilt clutch he said they never last very long and most times suffer chatter or hop.

Well new everything clutch wise and no more chatter or hop I was mad as hell that I put up with that chatter for all those years with a supposedly new clutch.

 

01SilverCC

a bad clutch can still function great with no slip the problem is in the takeoff if you have chatter its a rebuilt or warped clutch backing plate.

Its all a matter of if you want to put up with the chatter the clutch will still function with no slip.

Me if I pay a shop for a new clutch and I get chatter the shop did a poor job or installed a rebuilt clutch this is unacceptable to me as I expect it to function smoothly and properly.

 

My understanding of why a used/rebuilt clutch is crap is they turn the backing plate shave a small amount off the plate this thins it giving you a very high possibility of it warping on you causing clutch chatter.

Never go rebuilt in regards to a clutch job at the high $$$ it cost I want it done properly so it doesn't need replacing in a few years again or put up with chatter.

Clutch chatter SUCKS