Help with 2000 Dakota
Hi,
First time poster, long time lurker hoping to get some advice! I just purchased a Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter V8 and it did not have a key. I removed the cover around the steering column and spliced into the ignition, power and starter cables. I successfully got the vehicle to run, however the wheel is locked, the brake goes straight down to the floor if I touch it and the the truck will not shift out of park. I'm thinking it's either an anti-theft feature or it's because the ignition cylinder is still in and it's in the "off" position. Any input on why it won't shift/why the steering wheel is locked would be greatly appreciated. And also, if anyone has any recommendations for getting the lock cylinder out without a key, that would be great. I noticed there's a little pin on the side that pushes in, I pushed it as far as I could with a flat head and tried to turn the ignition with a flat head and also tried to pull it straight out... wouldn't budge. I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. I just need to get the truck started and off the old owner's property so I can bring it back to my garage and work on it.
Thanks!
First time poster, long time lurker hoping to get some advice! I just purchased a Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter V8 and it did not have a key. I removed the cover around the steering column and spliced into the ignition, power and starter cables. I successfully got the vehicle to run, however the wheel is locked, the brake goes straight down to the floor if I touch it and the the truck will not shift out of park. I'm thinking it's either an anti-theft feature or it's because the ignition cylinder is still in and it's in the "off" position. Any input on why it won't shift/why the steering wheel is locked would be greatly appreciated. And also, if anyone has any recommendations for getting the lock cylinder out without a key, that would be great. I noticed there's a little pin on the side that pushes in, I pushed it as far as I could with a flat head and tried to turn the ignition with a flat head and also tried to pull it straight out... wouldn't budge. I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. I just need to get the truck started and off the old owner's property so I can bring it back to my garage and work on it.
Thanks!
You need a key to remove the key cylinder. You push in on the pin and pull out the old cylinder.
The column is interlocked, with the key cylinder. It's an anti-theft device, locking the steering and the gear shift to prevent theft.
The brakes aren't affected. You have a problem with them - probably a leak.
A dealer should be able to cut you a key easily with proof of ownership.
The column is interlocked, with the key cylinder. It's an anti-theft device, locking the steering and the gear shift to prevent theft.
The brakes aren't affected. You have a problem with them - probably a leak.
A dealer should be able to cut you a key easily with proof of ownership.
You need a key to remove the key cylinder. You push in on the pin and pull out the old cylinder.
The column is interlocked, with the key cylinder. It's an anti-theft device, locking the steering and the gear shift to prevent theft.
The brakes aren't affected. You have a problem with them - probably a leak.
A dealer should be able to cut you a key easily with proof of ownership.
The column is interlocked, with the key cylinder. It's an anti-theft device, locking the steering and the gear shift to prevent theft.
The brakes aren't affected. You have a problem with them - probably a leak.
A dealer should be able to cut you a key easily with proof of ownership.
Edit: Also, if I were to get it out would I then be able to disable the anti theft system and drive it?
Last edited by bdkiger; May 18, 2015 at 09:38 PM.
Therein lies a very good question. You don't know if the truck is SKIM (grey key) or not (black key). If it's a gray key, you'll still be at the dealership to make it run more than 15 seconds.
I'm not sure, the old owner didn't even remember what the key looked like. I'm trying to avoid the dealership as they charge an arm and a leg. Of course, if that's an inevitability then so be it. I'm going to try removing all the screws around the ignition and maybe drill out the small button button and hopefully I can get it to turn. I don't even want to attempt vice grips. I'm hoping that I can somehow bypass the anti-theft. I'm guessing that the only way around it would be to trick the car into thinking the key is on the "on" position. The truck ran today for roughly a minute and a half after I wired it. Does this rule out the possibility of it being the Grey key?
Great news. I managed to get the car running and get it home. I'm thinking about a push button start and having a key and remote made for the doors. There's a lot of work ahead for this thing. lol







