Hey yall;

over the weekend i was messing with connectors with the key on because of some EMI/RF signals my CB is picking up... its something while the key is on but anyways so i disconnected several thigns under the hood which produced a CEL (That after a few miles already went away) but i Dc'd my ABS motor with the key on and with it off i plugged it back in so not to damage it..

well ABS wont go off and brake light is on as well.. did i fry my Abs motor?

Whats the best way to check these things if any before i strart replacing the ABS motor ?

 

Well unplugging and plugging in a hot circuit is usually not a good idea especially anything computer related. I fried a hard drive doing that one time boy did it toss some sparks as I plugged it back in cant remember why I did that just in a hurry I think luckily I didn't fry the motherboard or power supply.


How to test things I don't know but Dan would

 

Long story Long: ON my 98 durango (1st Gen) I recently had undergone ABS and Brake Light Indicator came on and stayed on at the same time. And, with the pressure of get'erdun to pass VA's vehicle year inspection, along with unable to tow the pontoon for get-a-ways during this 100 degree / 100% humidity days and approaching holiday weekends, I was under the gun. I did google search and started with the least and cheapest work first, replace the ABS RWSS (Rear Wheel Sensor Switch) $30 buck (Autozone) and 30-mins later...that wasn't it. (ABS & Brake Light still on.) My illustrious wife apparently saw my broken face and ran off to google herself (Bless her heart) as I went for the another beer to start my next troubleshooting and return to the Durango... The wifie read about and found the ABS Controller box under the hood, tapped it with her universal screw driver....and Wha-La! Lights went out. It passed inspection and we're good to go now. However, I see a $250 purchase for a ABS Controller box in my near future.

 

you tapped the actual abs motor controller assembly? I guess if i unplugged while hot it would make since that it was stuck engaged i guess..

Any other ideas out there before i go to a junk yard.

 

Yes, apparently its a known shortcoming in 1st Gen Durangos. I also live by salt water, so that tends to corrode electronics as well.

I'd be interested to know if the tap-method works.

 

Hey so i tried giving it a few good whacks and that didnt work.. checked fuses in the cab and teh one listed as ABS is good..

under the hood fuse bank that shows ABS pump is empty.. i dont remember ever seeing one

 

Any other ideas searching the net doesn't really return anything useful.. just sites trying to sale stuff.

These ABS part are listed 56028369AB for 272.xx looks like the other part i didn't disconnect.

But im just curious if this what I'm actually looking at..

MODULE. Anti-Lock Brake System. . [BGJ].
MODULE. Anti-Lock Brake System. [BGJ]. . "Pwr Disc/Drum Rr Anti-Lock Brakes". Required: 001

It's refernced as #9 in the photo but i dont have anything that looks like that in my truck at least i cant find it.. what i disconnected was shown as number 15 the one with the two solenoids and the connector..
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...ssembly=707682

Thoughts?

 

Help help any other ideas?

 

Jon, RWAL or 4 wheel ABS? The pictures you are showing are for 4 wheel ABS and you'd need the fuse in for the pump. The rear wheel only ABS does not use a pump/motor.

Start with the base brake system. Is the pedal firm?

If you had a scanner that can read brake codes this should be an easy diagnosis.

 

OK i will head up to auto-zone and see what they pull.