I have a 2001 Dakota 2WD 3.9L crew cab. How can you check to see if the hub assy is bad? I just replaced the rotor and new brake pads and it was great on the test run; however, the brakes were over heating so the only thing I can think of causing this would be the Hub Assy. It has no movement up/down and will still turn but seem stiff. Any help?

 

I would take it apart again make sure everything is good/correct make sure the slide pins are lubed up good did you use sil-glyde lube that's the best. Also you may have the dredded front brake binding problem its a problem not fully understood but I think its a weird brake bleeding condition caused by the ABS try bleeding the system completely again but be sure to bleed back to front.

If you have never completely replaced the DOT 3 brake fluid try that it may help and should be done every 5 years anyway. The back brake lines DOT 3 can get thick and even contaminated with age. One more thing check your back brakes for frozen brake cylinders its a very common problem on Dakotas.


Link for sil-glyde

http://www.bowessealfast.com/p-2042-...FYdlfgodYmANgQ

 

Thank you for your recommendations which I will do; however, I still would like an answer to how to verify if the hub is bad?

 

Jack one side of the front of the Dakota till the wheel is off the ground now grab it and forcefully try to move it side to side if you feel any movement it could be the hub OR ball joints. Now one final test is remove that wheel now forcefully spin the rotor now if the brake pads are binding back them out till they are very lose now spin it listen carefully for any grinding noise or any noise at all if so its going bad. The problem is any movement could be a number of things like ball joins bushings or steering joints. Also if it doesn't spin easy no mater how lose the brake pads are that's bad also.


Also when trying to spin just the rotor put one or two lug nuts on the rotor you want the rotor to be snug to the Hub.


Trying to tell if your hubs are going bad is not simple unless they are very bad. I knew my Hubs were very close to bad but tested them a few times but always tested good only thing I noticed was turning the rotor the bearing sounded gritty like dirt was inside the Hub but a very subtle low noise.

 

Just to narrow this down; I have already replaced the upper and lower ball joints, the inside and outside tie rod, the rotor and brake pads. Thanks for your help!

 

Why does every yahoo want a definitive answer to a very vague question that may have many answers?


Answer me that??


Gets tiring don't it

 

Thank You! This yahoo was not trying to upset you, I understand that it's hard to diagnosis a problem without seeing it. Just trying to get as much information as possible, thanks again for your assistance!

 

A worn hub will usually make noise - often during turns in only one direction.

You really can't tell if it's worn by feel.

How'd you determine the brakes are overheating? The caliper pistons are assisted in being "pushed" back into the bore by the pads rubbing slightly on the rotor due to runout.

The slide pin issue '98dakaz mentions is real.

 

Hey guys,
The problem has been resolved thanks to all for your suggestions. What happened is by replacing the rotor and getting the heavier brake pads which might be thicker I did not have the piston compressed far enough into the caliper and forced the new brake pads on the rotor which caused the overheating. The was obvious by the smell and could feel the heat build up.
Lesson learned by a shade tree mechanic. Thanks again!

 

I always use a C-Clamp and compress the piston back 100%, then let it return to position during the bleeding process. Leaving the piston out by any little bit will allow air to build up behind the piston.

And yes, I re-bleed at every pad change.