Hey guys and gals, my names John and I and new to the dodge forum. My project is a 1999 Dodge Dakota that I am building into a drag truck for summer fun at the track. Being new to this type of build I'm very open to ideas, "no ideas a bad a idea at the drawing board." so here is what I've done to the truck thus far.

I have up graded the rear end transmission and motor. The rear end is a Dana 40 with a Posi-3.92. Tires are stock size, 255/55/17 in the back and a small size in the front. If anyone has an idea for a different size that would allow more traction please let me know!!! The transmission is the automatic, however I did have a **** kit installed, transmission guy said it was a good kit for racing but the specifics are not coming to mind. The motor is where I have some questions. When I started the truck build I had rebuild the motor about 10000 miles ago. I put new oil pump, rods, mains pacesetters short headers a high rise manifold, a cold air intake, new distributor, coil, plugs,wires, and turn up the computer. However when I started up the truck it tends to idle rough if I step on her it clears right up, have good throttle response. only sensor I did not buy new was a crankshaft positioning sensor, let me know if anyone has had this problem before.

Before I hit the track I do want to wrap up a few things, this will be my first time racing on a track and want to be prepared. So please help me out. I would like to get some weight reductions done to put more weight on the rear end and less weight on the front end. truck already has gas tank and battery over the rear axle to hook better. In the engine bay I have taken out the heater, ac, and wiper fluid, switched to aluminum valve covers and intake manifold. Have a shorter belt so motor is not working as hard. Next thought was cutting out fender wells and putting skinnier tires in the front.
Please let me know what you think and if any of you are building something about the same, maybe we could sell and swap spare parts! I'll be adding pictures and times shortly.
Again if anyone has an idea as to why it idles rough please let me know!! thank you all for reading and hope you enjoy this as much as I do!!!!

 

for skinnies, find dodge viper space saver spares. If you dont want to go that route, i'm told CCM (I think?) has some good wheels. Last resort, find the late 1st gen 15x6 wheels and put some P235 tires on them from a honda or whatevs.

You have the essentials covered.

Did you replace the idle air controller? Seeing as it's only active at idle, i'd be looking at it real hard.

 

Yeah I had a few people suggest getting a set of 15x6 off first gen. I have all of the sensors replaced on the throttle body. Blew a gasket today during testing so have to fix that, but the trucks coming together nicely. what size tire should I run on the back, if I changed gear ratios in the rear end from a 3.93 to 4.56? thank so much for the advice.

 

I'd still look at the IAC. It's what controls air to the motor when the butterflies are completely closed at idle.

With 3.9 V6, 42RE, 4.10 gears, ext cab, and P265/65-16 AT's, My best was 11.70 and I was usually in the 11.90-12.10 range. I never got to make a pass in that config on the 26x10.5 slicks before the trans puked.

I'm gonna run the V6 with the powerglide for a bit on the 26x10.5 slicks, then I'll put the V8 in. Once i wear those slicks out (they have 50 passes on them already from a friend's mustang), I'll move up to a 28x10.5.

 

If i was going to build a drag truck it would have big block in it!

 

Hipotek makes a B/RB motor mount kit, I know it can be done, but fitment is a royal one!

 

Yeah I think Id just go the 408 with a turbo. Big blocks are heavy. have to upgrade the front suspension and I have see a few first gen with 440 hard to keep drive shafts in those. I know a girl that has a 2nd gen rt that she took her 360 and made it a 383. That thing hauls ***!!!! But for now its a build on a budget. 360 are so easy to find might just as well bottle feed them until they blow.

 

That's one of the things i'll be struggling with, any driveshaft over 5 feet long gets hard to balance. U-joints become a yearly thing. That and weight is why most race trucks are standard cab. And a big block is only 75 or so pounds heavier than a small block. It's the extra water and oil that adds the big weight.

Mine is on a budget, but i'll still put decent bottom end in it. Won't be bottle fed, though.

 

I would get rid of all the efi and go carbed with a 727. You can still run the magnum if you don't want to swap to a big block. There may be more out there for top end performance for the LA style rather than the magnum, Not sure about that though.

http://www.magnumswap.com/performance-modifications/

 

Flyin Ryan has been working on alot of tunes. But he all-but-requires anything he touches to have a wideband in each bank on a chassis dyno. He's done several nitrous assist tunes and at least a dozen or two boosted tunes that I know up that exceed 650 HP using Walbro pumps and ford injectors. We're aiming for about 850 for my truck with E85 with the Hughes girdle on the bottom. But I will be the first mopar block dakota with a glide that anybody knows of.