Starting the build process
#51
12-14-2016, 06:20 PM
So this has saved me from a pickle. I was trying to figure out how to run power, ground, and 3 switched wires in a 4-wire retractile cord. So i go pull up my favorite chapter of the FSM (8W) to find that there is a ground in the clockspring for the cruise control, as I had predicted.
Thus, I can use the 14 gauge wires for the transbrake power (in and out), and the 18 gauge wires to control the shifter system off the modified factory cruise buttons.
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Thus, I can use the 14 gauge wires for the transbrake power (in and out), and the 18 gauge wires to control the shifter system off the modified factory cruise buttons.
Screen%20Shot%202016-12-14%20at%204.50.33%20PM.png
#52
12-17-2016, 09:54 PM
Soldered up the steering wheel button harness.
Have had several threads going on the Dakota facebook group, think i found a solution for my cooling system.
180 stat, drilled with SIX 1/4" holes (functional flow area of a 5/8 hose), bypass port in the intake plugged, and Tee the heater hose into the lower radiator hose using a custom TIG welded tee with 10AN fitting and 10AN push-lok connection.
That will minimize the hydraulic load on the water pump, as well as the amount of hoses running through the engine bay.
The motor mounts came in and I got them mounted to the block. What sucks is that one of the holes that the passenger side uses, is the one that has a bolt broken off in it (and 2 easy-outs in said bolt). So i'm going to have to weld up some plate to make it reach the other bolts. Minor setback, but oh well.
I designed the crank flange spacer in CAD and did a test print to make sure it matches up. I also designed up a midplate, but it's too big to print. All I can do is measure mine to make sure it matches, and hope it works.
I wanted to get some stuff done on the truck, but we found some big anomalies in the cylinder heads on the dragster, so we tore it down all the way. It's on a tight deadline to be done by February, so i'm taking the heads in for a rebuild on monday.
Mopar%20727%20SB.jpg
20161217_102120.jpg
20161217_102218.jpg
20161217_102230.jpg
20161217_121905.jpg
20161217_141932.jpg
Have had several threads going on the Dakota facebook group, think i found a solution for my cooling system.
180 stat, drilled with SIX 1/4" holes (functional flow area of a 5/8 hose), bypass port in the intake plugged, and Tee the heater hose into the lower radiator hose using a custom TIG welded tee with 10AN fitting and 10AN push-lok connection.
That will minimize the hydraulic load on the water pump, as well as the amount of hoses running through the engine bay.
The motor mounts came in and I got them mounted to the block. What sucks is that one of the holes that the passenger side uses, is the one that has a bolt broken off in it (and 2 easy-outs in said bolt). So i'm going to have to weld up some plate to make it reach the other bolts. Minor setback, but oh well.
I designed the crank flange spacer in CAD and did a test print to make sure it matches up. I also designed up a midplate, but it's too big to print. All I can do is measure mine to make sure it matches, and hope it works.
I wanted to get some stuff done on the truck, but we found some big anomalies in the cylinder heads on the dragster, so we tore it down all the way. It's on a tight deadline to be done by February, so i'm taking the heads in for a rebuild on monday.
Mopar%20727%20SB.jpg
20161217_102120.jpg
20161217_102218.jpg
20161217_102230.jpg
20161217_121905.jpg
20161217_141932.jpg
#53
12-18-2016, 08:57 PM
I couldn't find a crank flange drawing, so here you go, Google. Threw the adapter on my scanner and overlayed a protractor.
Chrysler Mopar 6 bolt crankshaft flange bolt pattern
3.4448 bolt circle, 7/16 holes, two sets on 60 degree spread, one offset by 35 degrees, and one offset by 45 degrees.
crank-bolt-pattern-angle.jpg
Chrysler Mopar 6 bolt crankshaft flange bolt pattern
3.4448 bolt circle, 7/16 holes, two sets on 60 degree spread, one offset by 35 degrees, and one offset by 45 degrees.
crank-bolt-pattern-angle.jpg
#54
12-20-2016, 12:55 PM
First day above freezing, so i got some work done. Pulled the custom tone ring off and installed the PDC brackets yesterday, also cut the new power steering hose to length. Need a 12AN straight push lok, the 45 I bought won't work on the V6 (but it will for the V8). Pulled the cruise control servo off, and also cut and re-routed the transmission pressure line and pulled the remnants of the factory line out. I need to re-hose clamp it and put the shifter cable back on, but i ran out of "safe time" of dad being gone (field service tech, never know how long his calls are).
I intended to measure out the wire length to re-route the downstream O2's to behind the main cat, but I didn't get a chance to. Same with measuring the bracket to mount the MSD.
But at this point, with the factory trans line gone, I can put the radiator fan back in and complete it's wiring (which is sitting on my floor). I also pulled the ABS solenoid wire off, so that I can start the process of getting those dummy loaded out.
I also sent the CAD files to the laser shop and ordered the material. I just need to pick up the material when it's ready, and transport it to the laser shop.
The 4x16 wire came today for doing the O2 extensions, along with O2 bungs and plugs and the band clamp. I just need to take it to one of our racers that TIG welds to put it together.
Went ahead and soldered & heatshrinked the harness side of the O2 extensions. I measured out about 10 feet to where I want to put the sensors, I cut each bundle at 16 feet so I have plenty to play with. Labeled the colors on the O2 side so they it should all go back together properly. The local TIGer has no problem adding the O2 bung to the band clamp (it has one bung on it already), i just need to take it from him. Incidently, he's across the street from the speedshop that i need to get the 12AN pushlok straight fitting from for the power steering.
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I intended to measure out the wire length to re-route the downstream O2's to behind the main cat, but I didn't get a chance to. Same with measuring the bracket to mount the MSD.
But at this point, with the factory trans line gone, I can put the radiator fan back in and complete it's wiring (which is sitting on my floor). I also pulled the ABS solenoid wire off, so that I can start the process of getting those dummy loaded out.
I also sent the CAD files to the laser shop and ordered the material. I just need to pick up the material when it's ready, and transport it to the laser shop.
The 4x16 wire came today for doing the O2 extensions, along with O2 bungs and plugs and the band clamp. I just need to take it to one of our racers that TIG welds to put it together.
Went ahead and soldered & heatshrinked the harness side of the O2 extensions. I measured out about 10 feet to where I want to put the sensors, I cut each bundle at 16 feet so I have plenty to play with. Labeled the colors on the O2 side so they it should all go back together properly. The local TIGer has no problem adding the O2 bung to the band clamp (it has one bung on it already), i just need to take it from him. Incidently, he's across the street from the speedshop that i need to get the 12AN pushlok straight fitting from for the power steering.
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So here's where I am at right now.
---------- Purchasing/Obtaining:
I need to order the ATI balancer - Monday 11/5 (ATI direct, $450) # 918605
I need to order the MSD box - Monday 11/5 (Amazon, $350)
I need to source O2 sensor extensions to move O2's to the main cat - Monday 11/5 (BBK Performance, $50)
I need the reservoir and charge hose off a Jeep JK - Monday 11/5 (Dealer Items: 68078355AF & 52126151AG) ($60)
I need to purchase 20 feet of red 8 gauge for cabin power run - Monday 11/5 - $20
I need to make and install the amplifier bypass harness, and remove the amplifier. - Wednesday 11/7
I need to order the PDC brackets from HiPoTek - Monday 11/12 , $130
I need to order the MSD coil - Monday 11/12 (Amazon, $200)
I need to order a retractile cord for steering wheel/shifter buttons.
I need to receive the V8 motor mounts from Richard at Hi-Po-Tek and attach them to the engine - Wednesday 12/14 ???
Order wire to extend the O2 sensors, and bungs for sensor relocation
I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - Tuesday 01/03 (Altronics Direct, $650)
I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Monday 01/09 ??? ($500 down, $700 due)
I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250)
I need to order a powerglide transmission - Monday 02/06 ($2800ish)
I need to purchase an intake manifold - March/April ? ($600)
I need to source/fabricate a 4150 SLE/throttle stop mount - March/April ? ( 4500 is 5.375, 4150 is 5.625 bolt space)
I need to purchase a 4 barrel throttle body (probably Accufab, FAST's provider). - March/April ? ($600)
I need to order the WEGO IIID and dual-reading gauge: http://www.veisystems.com/ws/wideban...o-monitor.html
---------- Labor Items:
I need to check the resistance of the front speakers, disconnect the tweeters if necessary. - Works fine with them connected, did not take measurement
I need to re-deadtime the V6 and use the new swiss-cheesed bracket to get the crank sensor to line up.
I need to run the 8-gauge power line from the fender tap, into the cab and to the power distribution system in the back of the cab
I need to wire up the transmission cooler fan to the ASD relay tap in the cab - Wire already ran, needs connected
I need to wire up the water pump to the relay panel - Wire already ran, needs connected
I need to wire up the radiator fan harness to the relay panel - Wire already ran, needs connected
I need to wire up the ASD secondary relays in the cab - Wire already ran, needs connected
I need to cut the steel transmission cooler line and turn it around to feed to the transmission cooler, and remove the remnants from under the engine
I need to find a suitable mounting location for the MSD box, preferably in place of the infinity amp.
I need to remove the cruise control solenoids and system and cap off the vacuum port.
I need to design an an engine cradle that will balance the engine and also allow for the powerglide to bolt on
I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface).
I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted. - (4) 3/8" x 1.5" + Fender Wash + Nylock
I need to swap the steering plumbing over from the P pump to the TC pump. - Postponed
I need to measure out the belt length for the power steering pump - postponed
I need to wire up the radiator fan harness under the hood - Sub-harness already assembled, needs mounting and connection
I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel - Subject to new center console (put inside?)
I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be.
I need to design thetone ring for the V8 Crank Flange/Flywheel Spacer and send it to the laser shop with 2 more water pump plates
I need to measure the resistive value of the ABS solenoids, and make a dummy harness for the ABS computer to not throw the dash light.
---------- Stuff for V8 swap:
I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location.
I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion.
I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator
I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator
I need to purchase the remote water pump
I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance.
I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser
I need to purchase a rotating assembly and request the company to balance it (likely SCAT)
I need to take the block in for machining
I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness.
Extend the O2 extensions to relocate downstream O2's behind main cat [prepare for Y-pipe/pre-cat deletion)
----
First race is March 11th. I might have the truck usable by then with the V6 and glide. No idea.
---------- Purchasing/Obtaining:
I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - Tuesday 01/03 (Altronics Direct, $650)
I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Monday 01/09 ??? ($500 down, $700 due)
I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250)
I need to order a powerglide transmission - Monday 02/06 ($2800ish)
I need to purchase an intake manifold - March/April ? ($600)
I need to source/fabricate a 4150 SLE/throttle stop mount - March/April ? ( 4500 is 5.375, 4150 is 5.625 bolt space)
I need to purchase a 4 barrel throttle body (probably Accufab, FAST's provider). - March/April ? ($600)
I need to order the WEGO IIID and dual-reading gauge: http://www.veisystems.com/ws/wideban...o-monitor.html
---------- Labor Items:
I need to design an an engine cradle that will balance the engine and also allow for the powerglide to bolt on
I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface).
I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted.
I need to swap the steering plumbing over from the P pump to the TC pump. - Postponed
I need to measure out the belt length for the power steering pump - postponed
I need to wire up the radiator fan harness under the hood - Sub-harness already assembled, needs mounting and connection
I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel - Subject to new center console (put inside?)
I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be.
I need to design the
I need to measure the resistive value of the ABS solenoids, and make a dummy harness for the ABS computer to not throw the dash light.
---------- Stuff for V8 swap:
I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location.
I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion.
I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator
I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator
I need to purchase the remote water pump
I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance.
I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser
I need to purchase a rotating assembly and request the company to balance it (likely SCAT)
I need to take the block in for machining
I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness.
Extend the O2 extensions to relocate downstream O2's behind main cat [prepare for Y-pipe/pre-cat deletion)
----
First race is March 11th. I might have the truck usable by then with the V6 and glide. No idea.
Last edited by magnethead; 12-20-2016 at 08:58 PM.
#55
12-21-2016, 01:58 AM
On the RWAL pinout, it is not published anywhere- even the FSM.
I get 5 ohms between pin 1 and pin 2, also between pin 1 and pin 4. Pin 3 doesn't seem to connect to anything, even when hydraulic pressure is applied.
This implies that the 2 solenoids (assuming here) are 5 ohms, and draw 2.4 amps. I may see if I can score an RWAL module from a junkyard to take apart and see where the wires go. I can't play with mine much with ti still plumbed in.
I got the radiator fan mounted in and it's harness plugged in to the fan, i just need to mount the relay, run the power & ground, and connect it into the factory harness.
The ASD wire in my harness could probably be shortened by alot (green), I need to make a 36" extension for the water pump wire (red), and a TBD extension from the factory fan wire to the 70 amp relay coil (call it 60" in white and trim shorter).
I have 1.25" spacers on the bumper brackets to move it forward, intention being to make room for the radiator to move forward 2" (plus the scirroco radiator is half the height of stock). I've not decided what I will do with the AC condensor yet. I also did not realize how tight the right front shelf is with the AC service line there, I may have to come up with a plan B for water pump mounting. I don't really want to mount it below the frame rail, but I may not have much of a choice, since it needs to be lower than the top of the radiator.
I may or may not need the spacers when done, but i'm keeping them in place until I know.
20161221_003851.jpg
20161221_003857.jpg
20161221_003911.jpg
20161221_004021.jpg
20161221_004134.jpg
20161221_004148.jpg
I get 5 ohms between pin 1 and pin 2, also between pin 1 and pin 4. Pin 3 doesn't seem to connect to anything, even when hydraulic pressure is applied.
This implies that the 2 solenoids (assuming here) are 5 ohms, and draw 2.4 amps. I may see if I can score an RWAL module from a junkyard to take apart and see where the wires go. I can't play with mine much with ti still plumbed in.
I got the radiator fan mounted in and it's harness plugged in to the fan, i just need to mount the relay, run the power & ground, and connect it into the factory harness.
The ASD wire in my harness could probably be shortened by alot (green), I need to make a 36" extension for the water pump wire (red), and a TBD extension from the factory fan wire to the 70 amp relay coil (call it 60" in white and trim shorter).
I have 1.25" spacers on the bumper brackets to move it forward, intention being to make room for the radiator to move forward 2" (plus the scirroco radiator is half the height of stock). I've not decided what I will do with the AC condensor yet. I also did not realize how tight the right front shelf is with the AC service line there, I may have to come up with a plan B for water pump mounting. I don't really want to mount it below the frame rail, but I may not have much of a choice, since it needs to be lower than the top of the radiator.
I may or may not need the spacers when done, but i'm keeping them in place until I know.
20161221_003851.jpg
20161221_003857.jpg
20161221_003911.jpg
20161221_004021.jpg
20161221_004134.jpg
20161221_004148.jpg
Last edited by magnethead; 12-21-2016 at 02:29 AM.
#56
12-21-2016, 04:35 PM
#57
12-21-2016, 10:05 PM
Ended up with a 6K602 belt. It's a wee bit tight, a 607 or 612 would be better. Plumbed the power steering pressure sides, just need to get some 3/8 hydraulic hose and a barb to extend the return line to the can, and mount the can.
All under hood wiring is done for the moment. The switch panel/relay board is wired up and working, able to run the water pump and fan. Everything is loomed up, I just need to cut zip ties.
Interior is almost inhabitable again now, with the radiator fan out of there. I have a center console picked out at LKQ that I need to go get, hopefully it is the kind I want, they wouldn't send me a photo. That would let me get working on the interior electrical.
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20161221_203949.jpg
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All under hood wiring is done for the moment. The switch panel/relay board is wired up and working, able to run the water pump and fan. Everything is loomed up, I just need to cut zip ties.
Interior is almost inhabitable again now, with the radiator fan out of there. I have a center console picked out at LKQ that I need to go get, hopefully it is the kind I want, they wouldn't send me a photo. That would let me get working on the interior electrical.
20161221_203839.jpg
20161221_203849.jpg
20161221_203858.jpg
20161221_203903.jpg
20161221_203915.jpg
20161221_203926.jpg
20161221_203935.jpg
20161221_203949.jpg
20161221_204009.jpg
20161221_204023.jpg
#58
12-22-2016, 01:37 AM
In a brief moment of thoughtfulness, I cut off a piece of the steel transmission cooler line and the rubber jumper i had on it, and used that to connect the return line of the power steering system. I just need to hose clamp said line at the can, fill it with fluid, and bleed the system.
And make a mount for the can, but that's not important, right?
And make a mount for the can, but that's not important, right?
#59
12-24-2016, 06:28 PM
I picked up an ABS module for $20 at the junkyard, and proceeded to dremel the living crap out of it. It looked like it had been snowing on the workbench.
Alas, the results. I'm still not sure if that sensor is supposed to be grounded or what. That's all that I can figure, but in default state it's not grounded. I'm going to take the pigtail and throw some resistors on it, and see if that makes the CAB happy. Each solenoid is measuring at about 5 ohms.
the pressure switch on the proportioning valve is grounded when pressurized, open when released. It's an all plastic fitting, not a tapered pipe thread. I don't have a 9/16 socket in the house to bust the sensor out of the RWAL unit, but i'm wondering if it is the same.
Both fittings appear to be 1/4" tube with 7/16" inverted flare nuts. Plan is to put an adjustable proportioning valve in place of the ABS module, remove the factory proportioning valve completely, and plumb a line-lock into the front line where the factory valve was.
White - solenoid #1 Positive
Blue - center sensor
Black - Both Solenoid common Ground
Green - Solenoid #2 Positive
20161223_113824.jpg
IMG_20161223_122613_082.jpg
Alas, the results. I'm still not sure if that sensor is supposed to be grounded or what. That's all that I can figure, but in default state it's not grounded. I'm going to take the pigtail and throw some resistors on it, and see if that makes the CAB happy. Each solenoid is measuring at about 5 ohms.
the pressure switch on the proportioning valve is grounded when pressurized, open when released. It's an all plastic fitting, not a tapered pipe thread. I don't have a 9/16 socket in the house to bust the sensor out of the RWAL unit, but i'm wondering if it is the same.
Both fittings appear to be 1/4" tube with 7/16" inverted flare nuts. Plan is to put an adjustable proportioning valve in place of the ABS module, remove the factory proportioning valve completely, and plumb a line-lock into the front line where the factory valve was.
White - solenoid #1 Positive
Blue - center sensor
Black - Both Solenoid common Ground
Green - Solenoid #2 Positive
20161223_113824.jpg
IMG_20161223_122613_082.jpg
#60
12-24-2016, 06:29 PM
Went to LKQ and picked up the center console out of a 02 Durango, to replace my center jumpseat/mini-console. Unbolted the main seats, laid them back in the cab, unbolted the center seat, then took each seat out of the cab. Grabbed the shop vac, cleaned the floor, put the console in, put a seat in, trimmed everything to fit, same with other side, then bolted everything down.
Plan is to put the delay box inside, and possibly the switch panel if I can make it fit.
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Plan is to put the delay box inside, and possibly the switch panel if I can make it fit.
20161223_100804.jpg
20161224_143431.jpg
20161224_145538.jpg
20161224_145552.jpg
20161224_162422.jpg
