So here's where I am at right now.

---------- Purchasing/Obtaining:

I need to order the ATI balancer - Monday 11/5 (ATI direct, $450) # 918605

I need to order the MSD box - Monday 11/5 (Amazon, $350)

I need to source O2 sensor extensions to move O2's to the main cat - Monday 11/5 (BBK Performance, $50)

I need the reservoir and charge hose off a Jeep JK - Monday 11/5 (Dealer Items: 68078355AF & 52126151AG) ($60)

I need to purchase 20 feet of red 8 gauge for cabin power run - Monday 11/5 - $20

I need to make and install the amplifier bypass harness, and remove the amplifier. - Wednesday 11/7

I need to order the PDC brackets from HiPoTek - Monday 11/12 , $130

I need to order the MSD coil - Monday 11/12 (Amazon, $200)

I need to order a retractile cord for steering wheel/shifter buttons.

I need to receive the V8 motor mounts from Richard at Hi-Po-Tek and attach them to the engine - Wednesday 12/14 ???

Order wire to extend the O2 sensors, and bungs for sensor relocation

I need to order a powerglide transmission - Monday 01/06 ($2800ish)

I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - 02/28 ? (Altronics Direct, $650)

I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Sunday 01/08 ??? ($500 down, $700 due)

I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250)

I need to order the WEGO IIID and dual-reading gauge: http://www.veisystems.com/ws/wideban...o-monitor.html

I need to purchase the remote water pump

---------- Labor Items:

I need to check the resistance of the front speakers, disconnect the tweeters if necessary. - Works fine with them connected, did not take measurement

I need to re-deadtime the V6 and use the new swiss-cheesed bracket to get the crank sensor to line up.

I need to run the 8-gauge power line from the fender tap, into the cab and to the power distribution system in the back of the cab

I need to wire up the transmission cooler fan to the ASD relay tap in the cab - Wire already ran, needs connected

I need to wire up the water pump to the relay panel - Wire already ran, needs connected

I need to wire up the radiator fan harness to the relay panel - Wire already ran, needs connected

I need to wire up the ASD secondary relays in the cab - Wire already ran, needs connected

I need to cut the steel transmission cooler line and turn it around to feed to the transmission cooler, and remove the remnants from under the engine

I need to find a suitable mounting location for the MSD box, preferably in place of the infinity amp.

I need to remove the cruise control solenoids and system and cap off the vacuum port.

I need to swap the steering plumbing over from the P pump to the TC pump.

I need to measure out the belt length for the power steering pump

I need to wire up the radiator fan harness under the hood

I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel - Subject to new center console (put inside?)

I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface).

I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted. - (4) 3/8" x 1.5" + Fender Wash + Nylock

I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be.

I need to design the tone ring for the V8 Crank Flange/Flywheel Spacer and send it to the laser shop with 2 more water pump plates

I need to measure the resistive value of the ABS solenoids, and make a dummy harness for the ABS computer to not throw the dash light. A 1,000 Ohm resistor in place of each solenoid was sufficient

---------- Stuff for V8 swap:

I need to purchase an intake manifold - INDY MOD-MAN Magnum EFI Pkg - $1550 - May/June?

I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location.

I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion.

I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator

I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator

I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance.

I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser

I need to purchase a rotating assembly and request the company to balance it (likely SCAT)

I need to take the block in for machining

I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness.

Extend the O2 extensions to relocate downstream O2's behind main cat [prepare for Y-pipe/pre-cat deletion)

----

First race is March 11th. I might have the truck usable by then with the V6 and glide. No idea.

 

MSD came already, as well as the audio adapters. There's a write-up on bypassing the factory inifinity over on dak-dur that I followed. The idea is to pull the factory amp and mount the MSD there.

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So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!

Alas, I did get it out.

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Got the 8 gauge cables made up, and ring terminals in the truck. Just need to throw my jacket on and wipe out a couple items on that to-do list. O'R didn't have 8AWG to 3/8 rings, so I had to get 1/2" rings. Should work just fine. Soldered the rings on all 3 cables. One of the fused leads is for the radiator fan. Picked up a 50 amp MAXI fuse for the cab power lead and 60 amp for the radiator fan.

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topped the truck off with coolant (had no idea what mix was in it & top hose was dry) and let it run until the thermostat opened.

While it was running, I went ahead and terminated the 4 accessory wires going to the relay board, now they just need to be screwed to the terminal strip. Also got the 8 gauge wire ran through the door jamb. Going to have to fish it back to put the grommet on the wire and put loom over it, but at least it's ran. Getting around the CTM is always the hard part. I should be able to button all that up on my lunch break tomorrow.

 

Got the 8 gauge cabin wire loomed, routed, and connected to the fender tap. Connected the accessory leads to the relay panel and ASD wire to the dedicated relays. I don't have any 8 gauge black to run a ground, so i need to get that tomorrow. Made the power jumpers for the ASD dedicated relays, need to make a 10 gauge ground for that real quick. Since the ground is a short jumper, I made one up with a piece of 10 gauge instead of spending extra money on the 8 gauge. If figure the losses over 15 feet of 8 gauge should match 2 feet of 10 gauge, so it shouldn't really hurt anything. I don't think I'll be drawing over 30 curative amps from the fuse block anyways. Plus the radiator fan and water pump ground to the chassis, so not many things will be grounding through the fuse block anyways.

There are 2 ASD dedicated relays, one for the transmission cooler and one for the miscellaneous electronics in the cab (delay box, shifter system, extra gauges).

Also got the infinity amplifier jumper installed and made sure all that works.

Need to take a knife and cut the insulation away from the passenger footwell and figure out how I want to mount the MSD. Think I'll re-use the bottom 2 amp bolts, but that top one has me cursing the idea to re-use it as well.

The balancer came in from ATI, as well as the O2 extensions from BBK performance. I need to measure out how long to make them, to reach to behind the main cat.

 

Popped the rings off 4 of the stock pistons and put them back in. Unscientifically and with not-so-accurate gauging, I did 2 readings on each piston, front edge up front and rear edge in back. All 8 readings were between 60-70 thou in the hole, plus a factory 40 gasket. So the deck may not be as bad as some of the horror stories I had heard of massive variances. Being a 2002 block might help, having been refined over time.

The ATI balancer is going to be VERY tight to clear the timing mark. ATI says it won't clear, I think it might rub but self clearance or may just barely clear. We won't know till i try to put it on.

 

Re-dead timed the engine using a multi-meter on the factory crank sensor (unhooked fuel pump relay), got the front sensor lined up (testing same method), and.....fire in the manifold and banged the starter. Now it hisses when running, like LOUD, shut it off immediately. Obviously I did something bad wrong, and ignited fuel in the intake. Not sure what the hissing is, much louder than just IAC. Not sure if it pushed a vacuum line off, damaged the starter (it spun over fine afterward with the fuel shut off), spun a bearing, or what.

I finished the wiring in the cab, cleaned the trash out of the bed, and worked on the MSD situation a little more. Think I have an idea of how I'll mount it, I notched the plastic kick panel for the fan motor and leads since it will be pushed out a little.

 

Came up with a gameplan. Going to scrap the front trigger setup, and instead run a 1/4" midplate and flywheel spacer. That will give me the space I need to clear the GM torque converter bolts and keep the JTEC flexplate, and maintain starter gear alignment. That free's up a bunch of space up front and simplifies the pulley alignment issues I was fearing.

I loomed the MSD harnesses, just need to make the mount for it. The kickpanel is trimmed, so it's just a matter of bolt on and run wires. The access to both door jamb plugs is wide open, so getting the wires to the engine bay isn't an issue.

The power steering is on hold until I get the PDC bracket, as I'm hoping to be able to mount the reservoir to said bracket. Once that's taken care of, then I'll go back to making the fittings work together. I also need to check up on making the return hose work.

I decided to keep the Line Lock on the relay panel switch board with the water pump and radiator fan switches. I still need to figure up a plan for a shift light. One of the relay board channels will also activate the delay box, transbrake switch, line lock switch, shift light, and any other "race only" electronics.

Another channel will go to the onboard air system, a small electric compressor that allows for airing up the tires after sitting in the staging lanes.

My dad has a Jegs wishlist going, so i just bought some things off that, and put the retractile cord and ignition coil on the same tab, and overnighted it for Tuesday delivery to my work.

 

Went by the machine shop, got a quote for $500 to Vaat, line-hone, deck, and bore .030 over. Not bad at all. It's an older guy that does things old school. Had a Kinsler injected 440 B/RB on the dyno, three Ford 302's in a row, a Buick V6 on the assembly table, and a Vortech boosted LS motor for an irrigation pump, set up to run on natural gas, sitting on an engine stand awaiting delivery. Apparently he's a well kept secret on off-the-wall builds.

Also, i just ordered the PDC brackets from Richard at HiPoTek.

I just need to draw up a part in CAD, do some 1:1 prints, order material, and send it all to the laser shop.

The ignition coil should be here this week, at which point I should have everything I need to be able to get wires ran and get the game plan rolling. I can pop the cruise control out and start on a bracket for the coil and water pump (which I don't have, but I have an idea of how it mounts). I can cut down the hydraulic hose on the steering reservoir and get that all mounted up next wheel when the PDC brackets arrive, get the power steering plumbed up. I'm seeking out junk AC compressor and alternator for mock-up purposes since the ATI balancer is here. I already have the tensioner pulley, so the belt on the truck now will fit (the P/S pump is my custom bracket that i can make fit anything).

MSD box needs to mount with some aluminum flat bar, no big deal.

I also need to hit a junkyard and see about fetching a durango center console, and swap out my jumpseat console.

I was also tipped off to a mod of moving the EVAP canister from under the cab to behind a rear tire. There's no electronics, only hoses going to it, so it's a straight forward modification other than coming up with a mounting system.

Laser Cutter:
- Two Water Pump block off plates - 1/4" X 8"X 24" 6061T6
- One mid-plate spacer - 1/4" steel plate
- One flywheel spacer - 1/4" steel plate

Junkyard:
- Dark colored hood
- Alternator (mockup)
- Durango Console

ATI:
- Spare Balancer Hub

I also need to knock the weights off the factory flexplate.