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Starting the build process

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  #61  
Old 12-27-2016, 07:51 PM
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Well, I got the rear ABS solenoid housing pulled. Pulled the lines, cut the metric flares and nuts off, and replaced with english nut and inverted flare, and plumbed the wilwood proportioning valve in. Got everything back together, now the back brakes just need to be bled.

I'm going to see how it behaves after doing that, before deciding if I will leave the factory balance valve in place before installing the front line-lock.
 
  #62  
Old 12-28-2016, 04:14 PM
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bled the brakes, 4 times on both side with proportioning valve wide open. Pedal is firm, but still cant tell how much rear braking there is. Took the RWAL valve apart and it was full of trash, so at least that part has been justified.

Now i'm debating if I should just say F it and take the factory proportioning valve out, or not. The truck is nose-diving hard under braking at low speed, like the backs aren't contributing very much. The push-through RPM did come up about 200 so there's some improvement. It just seems like there should be more braking power than there is.
 
  #63  
Old 12-28-2016, 05:28 PM
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Dad pulled the oil pan off the dragster while i was doing brakes on the truck. Also, a video from yesterday before I yanked the ABS module.


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  #64  
Old 12-28-2016, 06:38 PM
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So converting the front brakes to safety spec doesn't cost as much as I thought. I could probably do it for under $100, I can get the 3AN braided lines and the 3/16 hard lines locally. It's just a matter of doing it.

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  #65  
Old 12-29-2016, 06:04 PM
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Dropped off the $1800 down payment on the transmission. $1400 for half-down of the trans and $400 for the mopar bell housing. Have a to-buy list going at Jegs to remove all of the factory brake components in the front circuit and replace with aftermarket fittings. Just not sure i want to pull the trigger on that $40 of goods.
 
  #66  
Old 12-29-2016, 11:03 PM
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Looks like I will be needing to wire up 2 more relays, and get a pair of 9 position barrier strips.

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Last edited by magnethead; 12-30-2016 at 04:52 PM.
  #67  
Old 01-01-2017, 02:47 PM
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I ordered a 5 pack of 12 position barrier strips to match the other's I've been using, and I had a 16 position just paying around.

I popped the power outlet out of the front cover of the durango console, so i can use that opening to run all the power lines.

I intended to get stuff done yesterday, but helped dad on the dragster instead. We're putting a 300 wet kit on it.

The powerglide I'm getting should be about 27" tip to tail, compared to the 42RE at 37.5 inches. So I'll have to get the driveshaft re-tubed 10" longer.

I did talk to Ryan, and our thoughts right now is to use a 2.5 bar MAP sensor for maximum resolution over the range that we will be using, which will restrict me to about 20 pounds of boost. Instead of going off into uncharted territory, he suggested that I look at plumbing in a 150 wet shot instead (which would really be more of a 75 shot pre-boost). He also suggested to use the INDY MOD-MAN manifold for a good combination of throttle response and high RPM boost-feeding. Considering that 4BBL M1's are going for $600 new or used, $1500 for the MOD-MAN including fuel rails and FAST throttle body isn't that bad, and having the larger plenum volume will allow for equalized fuel delivery at high RPM under heavy boost.

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Last edited by magnethead; 01-01-2017 at 02:49 PM.
  #68  
Old 01-01-2017, 05:42 PM
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I went out and switched the steering wheel buttons and harness. After talking to Fred at Altronics, I'm going to make both wheel buttons be for upshift, and add a button on top left (hard to accidentally hit) for downshift. Reason being is that there's not a downshift lockout, so accidentally hitting that button can do bad things.

I haven't decided where I want to put the transbrake button yet, but I'm leaning towards on top of the wheel on the right.

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  #69  
Old 01-08-2017, 07:09 PM
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Got the wiring harness installed in the durango console and all the wiring ran out the back. Ran power/ground and the accessory wires.

Also tapped the reverse light harness, but have not tested functionality of it or the NS tap yet.
 
  #70  
Old 01-10-2017, 09:09 PM
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Picked up the heads and cam from Mike Moriarty tonight, as well as the Mopar/Powerglide bellhousing. The holes on the midplate are pretty close but i'll have to drill 2 of them out I think. I won't know for sure till I bolt them together. I also have to see what the situation is with the starter. I'll be getting the transmission at our racer's banquet on Saturday.
 


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