Update since replacing sensor... still need your help :)
Section Moderator
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,858
Likes: 47
From: MA
I moved your last post into the existing thread.
You will lose quite a bit of coolant. Everything in the radiator is going to drain out once you pull that hose and most of what's in the block.
Fill the system via the radiator cap. To top off the system you add it via the overflow.
Dodge has changed how to properly fill the 4.7 many times over several years. This way works, from the '01 manual:
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the radiator upper hose inlet housing. Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze and low mineral content water, until coolant begains coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion.
You will lose quite a bit of coolant. Everything in the radiator is going to drain out once you pull that hose and most of what's in the block.
Fill the system via the radiator cap. To top off the system you add it via the overflow.
Dodge has changed how to properly fill the 4.7 many times over several years. This way works, from the '01 manual:
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the radiator upper hose inlet housing. Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze and low mineral content water, until coolant begains coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion.
Champion
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta
I would run some motor flush through that thing. Who knows if something is clogging.
I would drain the radiator at the drain ****. You can reach right through the hole in the bumper valance (drivers side) to access it. Pull the thermostat housing with the truck's nose pointing downhill and the heater turned to hot. Thermostat housing is the lowest point on the block, so it should evac just about all the coolant, which is almost two gallons.
I fill the overflow to almost the max line, then fill the engine from the neck. My bleeder screw is stuck, so I run the engine without the cap on till the air bubbles stop appearing. Oh, and the truck should be pointed Uphill when burping coolant.
I would drain the radiator at the drain ****. You can reach right through the hole in the bumper valance (drivers side) to access it. Pull the thermostat housing with the truck's nose pointing downhill and the heater turned to hot. Thermostat housing is the lowest point on the block, so it should evac just about all the coolant, which is almost two gallons.
I fill the overflow to almost the max line, then fill the engine from the neck. My bleeder screw is stuck, so I run the engine without the cap on till the air bubbles stop appearing. Oh, and the truck should be pointed Uphill when burping coolant.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Jul 18, 2016 at 08:56 PM.
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Victoria, BC, Canada
So... I know this is going to open up a can of worms but I thought I'd ask being new and all... the bad bearings I am hearing upon startup, afterwards and shut down are from my fan clutch... the fan spins freely with no resistance when the truck is off and it continues to spin after I have shut down the car and makes a horrible grinding noise... I ordered a fan clutch but started stumbling on to all these threads about fan clutch deletes...
Can someone give me a good reason as to why I should run the stock fan clutch? Up here in Victoria, we get cool-wet weather 8 months of the year... and I don't tow anything.... given that weather, would it be counter-intuitive to throw a 180 t-stat in the truck?
Also, Can i go out and get the Peak or Motomaster or Certified pre-mixed antifreeze when this drains out or are people dead-set on the expensive stuff?
Can someone give me a good reason as to why I should run the stock fan clutch? Up here in Victoria, we get cool-wet weather 8 months of the year... and I don't tow anything.... given that weather, would it be counter-intuitive to throw a 180 t-stat in the truck?
Also, Can i go out and get the Peak or Motomaster or Certified pre-mixed antifreeze when this drains out or are people dead-set on the expensive stuff?